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So a while ago maybe 2years I bought Tim's 91 1jz 4runner. Drove it for a year but rust on the frame got so bad I took it off the road and let sit unroll I found a donor vehicle. Well finally after a year or whatever I finally found a candidate that I could spend some time and money with for the swap. Just last weekend out of VA I was able to pick up this clean 95 limited 4runner. Fully loaded leather interior never been butcherd or "modified in any way. Previous owner had the rust on rear quarter fixed long ago luckily. Frame is in great shape with the only rust being the top driver A-arm which is strange to me but whatever.
Goal is to switch the 1j out probly do some minor maintenance to it and drop back in. This time I'm thinking I want to run this with the factory auto only if I can do it with all factory parts. The 95 has a A340H in it currently and I luckily have a A-340le laying the floor from my first 1j swap into my first gen. So between the two I think I should be able to make it work. So yeah should be a straight forward swap buy has I learned in the past things like this never go as planned so probly be a good idea to document.
Started pulling the 3.0 out of the other 4runner what pain this thing is being. Majority of everything is disconnected, working on bell housing now. Because of the exhaust that runs behind the motor connecting the heads together. Probly not the quickest but will make it eaisier. I'm just gonna dismantle the motor as it sits to get to the two bolts on the top of the bell housing.
I could un bolt the tranny and pivot the drivetrain down but still not a guarantee that would work. I'm in no rush so I'll just do what makes it eaisiest.
Stock 4runner bellhousing on the left. Measures 5 1/2" face to face.
"J1" housing on the right. Came behind the 1jz gte vvti when i did the 1st swap into my 1st gen 4runner
The stock trans currently in the 4runner. Input shafts and oil pumps are same measurements going from the casing measuring out to the end of the input shaft. Bellhousing are interchangeable as well as the Tv's. Currently trying to find an accurate wiring diagram for the trans. I'm hoping I'm able to wire to shift properly with out being tied to an .edu as the 1j ecu I have will not run an auto trans.
I was a bit confused when i actually looked at the stamped # on the trans. A30-80LE.
Toyota transferred it to the a340xx family but digging around looking for info and wiring. I realised that the same trans was used in 1988-1991 izuz troopers as its stamped with the 30-80LE. With that i was able to get further but still nothing exact accurate to make me convinced it will work. If im unable to make it work may scrap the entire auto idea and just out manual in it :/
This is the stock trans that was behind the 1j vvti. Physically the casing is extremely similar. Internally it does have mild upgrades to go with the 1j and 2jz motors. I would convert this to 4wd tranny but for two reasons. 1, I really want to keep this as simple as possible and not let spiral out of control in time and money like my last swap did.
2, again my ecu I have won't run an auto trans. This is a bit more intelligent I believe and will need feed back from ecu to run properly. My 1j ecu I'm using is for a M/T.
Could be wrong but would be a lot of work to gamble on without being certain
So I can go ahead and scratch my original idea of running a full auto
After spending almost 4hours on the web through Toyota,Jeep,Isuzu and even some Volvo forums I realised that it's just not worth it. I didn't know the A-series trans was so widely used. I did find a guy on an Isuzu forum who was restoring a old trooper with a diesel mated to an A340 and had the same issue. After reading through the build for 45 mins trying to find what I needed the last post was March of this year with out a final outcome.
he did source a TCM from a 2nd gen diesel big horn. But reading he got his out of the UK and had to wait 6months for it. I just said screw it and through the whole idea away.
so now I either rebuild my R150 that was bolted to it, the syncros for 1st and 2nd are bad. Or I'll take the A341LS convert it to 4wd with the existing Tcase and make it manual shift. The LS trans I'm pretty sure doesn't have a terrible amount of miles on it so I'll just have a trans guy tear the two apart swap over the shaft,tail housing and Tcase
I wanted to take a break from the trans ordeal and started working on the front end. It's very strange to me, the entire frame is actually in pretty good shape. Entire frame it has some paint flaking off here and thier but 0 rust pits or anything major. However the driver side upper and lower arm and the trans crossmember are rusted pretty bad.
I leave for Vegas tomorrow, depending on how broke i'am when i come back. I'll either just buy some new arms or pull them off the black 4runner the 1j came out of.
Have also decided that I will be using the stock auto trans as it is. Gonna pull it out make it easier to deal with re routing fuel lines, will half to relocate the factory transfer case cooler to help give a clear route for the exhaust. Could probly be fine deleting it but I'll keep it if I find a good spot for it.
I'm gonna run the factory 3.0 3vze ecu to hopefully run the trans. I have the factory harness out, plan is to cut apart the harness and single out each wire for the trans and transfer and whatever else I can give it with out interfering with the 1jz computer. I'll send it 12v on a fuse and hopefully between that and the trans it will take care of itself. If it doesn't work then I'll pull it right back out and put the manual in it.
yesterday I replaced the rear main seal, took the pilot bearing out, switched the trans cross member with my original 22r out of my 4runner to move the trans back 3inches. Have that mounted and while it was out I switched out the front driveshaft again from my 84 4runner. You can see the difference in lengthens between the v6 front shaft and the 4cyl which is longer.
Also have the flex plate bolted and torqued with new flywheel bolts and the drive spacer that goes between the plate and the crank both orderd from Toyota. The flywheel bolts I torqued to 75LBS in increments of 25.
This is a wine by side comparison of the stock V6 cross meber and a 22re cross member. 22re is typically the one to use unless you build one from scratch which is what I did on my other 4runner. How ever if you notice I did half to notch out the front a little bit. Because the bell housing I used is a hair shorter it prevented the trans from aligning with all 4holes. Instead it caught the front two of the cross member only. Can weld a small plate later with 2 holes drilled later on. No big deal Attempted to put drop motor with out a body lift. Which was a mistake. Was able to slide the motor in with out cutting the front radiator support which was a big plus. However once the motor was in, it was very difficult to get the trans high enough to line up with the motor. Even with motor sitting on the steering well below the motor mounts. So I pulled the 2inch body lift off the black and put on this one. Following day every thing bolted up pretty smooth.
For the mounts off the frame you will need to place a 1/4 plate underneath the factory motor mounts.
For the actually motor mounts there the same I used on mine. They are Jz to 22re mounts. For the 2nd gen v6 frames they need to be slightly extended length wise to bolt up.
Once the motor was in I began working on the Factory wiring harness. I deleted everything not needed to run the trans. Labeled each wire off the ecu to make it alot easier when going through each wire. Hopefully this will run the tranny with minimum input while the 1j ecu handles the motor.
Nothing big, redid the linkage for the shift to transmission. Pulled the stock linkage out, cut it shorter and welded back together. 10min fix once it was out.
10-26-2017, 01:09 AM
