Need advice
#1
Need advice
Hello YotaTech, I need some advice on a problem with my 1986 4Runner. The vehicle won't start or even crank, whenever I turn the key I hear the starters trying to ignite the engine but she just won't even crank. I fear that the engine is seized but I wouldn't know what for and if it was, would the check engine light be on? The car does not have a lot of oil in it as of right now, if I had to give a measurement I'd say there is about 1-2 cm on the oil stick. While it has sat in my driveway for a few weeks I noticed it leaks out through the oil pan but my mechanic told me that it's not a significant issue if it leaks a tad bit due to the old age. If you guys could give me idea's to resolve the problem with a friendly budget that'd be great, I'm only 16 years old and broke as a joke. Thanks.
-Billy Cameron
-Billy Cameron
#3
Haven't checked battery voltage but the battery is brand new, beside I tried jumping and that didn't work. What I mean for the starters is I can hear them sparking but the engine won't crank.
#4
Registered User
Still don't get what your saying about "starters".
New or not you need to check battery to make sure it has a least 12.6 volts.
Every time you turn that key on without it starting, it can zap voltage.
Last edited by ksti; 10-22-2017 at 01:21 PM.
#5
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Just because your battery is new doesn't mean that full voltage is getting to the starter. The most likely issue is that you have a poor cable connection between the battery and starter. It could be in the plus(+) cable from battery to starter, or in the ground cable between starter and the frame. Disassemble those connections and make sure they are squeaky clean - shiny metal on shiny metal. Paint or dull gray metal doesn't count.
The other possibility is bad contacts in the starter solenoid itself. That would require pulling the starter to fix.
Here is the first voltage check you should run. Follow this carefully, especially noting where I say to put the mulitimeter probes.
- Put one probe directly on the + terminal of the battery, the other on the - terminal (NOT on the cables or clamps). Have a helper turn the key to START. You should see a small voltage drop of a volt or so. If the drop is large, you have a bad battery. If there is no drop at all, you have bad connections to the starter.
- Next, measure across the various connections in the high current starter circuit. (each battery terminal, ground cable to frame, starter cable to starter), to figure out where the voltage is getting lost. If any one of those connections shows a large voltage drop while the key is in the START position, that is your problem connection.
BTW, you can easily check if the engine is seized by putting a socket and breaker bar on the crank bolt on the front of the engine and trying to turn it. It should turn without too much difficulty, assuming you have the transmission in neutral.
The other possibility is bad contacts in the starter solenoid itself. That would require pulling the starter to fix.
Here is the first voltage check you should run. Follow this carefully, especially noting where I say to put the mulitimeter probes.
- Put one probe directly on the + terminal of the battery, the other on the - terminal (NOT on the cables or clamps). Have a helper turn the key to START. You should see a small voltage drop of a volt or so. If the drop is large, you have a bad battery. If there is no drop at all, you have bad connections to the starter.
- Next, measure across the various connections in the high current starter circuit. (each battery terminal, ground cable to frame, starter cable to starter), to figure out where the voltage is getting lost. If any one of those connections shows a large voltage drop while the key is in the START position, that is your problem connection.
BTW, you can easily check if the engine is seized by putting a socket and breaker bar on the crank bolt on the front of the engine and trying to turn it. It should turn without too much difficulty, assuming you have the transmission in neutral.