mattyboi

I have no reference to what a good sounding 22re sounds like. I know they're known for the ticking/sewing machine sound but mine seems to be a bit excessive. I have already adjusted the valves and checked the timing chain and tensioners. All checked out as good. In fact I have a receipt for a timing job done by the PO back in 2014. Can anyone post a video of their healthy or freshly rebuilt 22re at idle?

This guy here claims he just rebuilt the engine but it still has the knocking/ticking noise just like mine guess that's normal then?

I'm getting to the point that Im too scared to drive my truck thinking it'll blow on my next trip lol

L5wolvesf

The only time mine sounds like a sewing machine is when it gets low on oil.

mattyboi

Mine's definitely not low on oil, just changed it. Maybe it's time to do a quick and dirty rebuild to see what's going on in there.

millball

If it ain't broke don't fix it.

My fresh rebuild with new pistons, rings, rod bearings, main bearings, new cam and new rocker arms doesn't sound that much different than that one in your video. Maybe a smidge quieter.

In fact, my fresh one doesn't sound very much different than my other one with 290,000 miles on it. It doesn't hurt a 22 type engine one bit to have some valve clatter.

What would be concerning is deep bottom end knock, signifying loose rod or main bearings If you've got decent oil pressure, and moderate oil consumption, keep driving it like you stole it.

It does take some experience to adjust valve lash properly and go-no go gauges like this are a big help:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cal-Van-Tool...AAAOSwEPtZZS2j

They have a .002 in step on their blades and you know you've got it right when the front of the blade will pass, but the step will not.

Don't worry, be happy.

mattyboi

Yup I did that too, even adjusted them an extra 0.001" but then it ran like ˟˟˟˟ haha Guess I'll just drive and be happy. No biggie if the engine blows since it's not a daily driver anyway.

dark_fairytales

Sounds happy too me except for all the valve chatter. I know for sure that the valve lash is not correct. When adjusting the valves on a 22r-re-rte, it is easiest to do it when the engine is cold. the factory service manual states .008 intake and .012 exhaust, but that will lead too lots of chatter. I have always had vary good success with .007 and .011. Also, like with many things related to toyota, certain tasks are more art form then scientific numbers. As you keep working at adjusting the valves you will get a feel for it.

mattyboi

I did adjust them hot. I will try it again at those specs cold!

dark_fairytales

Yeah that is for sure the problem. you will never do it hot again once you set it too those numbers cold.

mattyboi

I'll try and get it done after work tomorrow and post my results! Thanks for the tip.

RAD4Runner

Sounds normal to me, Mattyboi.
Mine sounds like that and I've driven it to from So Cal to Big Sur and back twice, to Point Reyes and back twice, along Route 66 to Dallas Tx and back, and recently to Lake Powell along Utah-AZ border and back. 18 to 21 MPG depending on hwy or city miles.
But pls keep us posted on your valve clearance check.
Tn for your input on my steering linkage system thread.

Melrose 4r

It's surprising how much noise one or two exhaust valves out of adjustment can make. Mine sounded so much like a diesel i wondered if there was something else wrong. But it was running fine. I set the valves at .007" and .011" cold as others suggested and now i can't here any clatter at all. Night and day difference. If you are not experienced with a feeler gauge, try to be consistent in your adjustments from one to the next.

mattyboi

So I adjusted my valves to 0.007 and 0.011cold and although I can still hear the ticking it is much quieter.

Question though...how tight should the feeler gauge feel when tightening down the adjuster screw? I got it to the point that it can still move along but with some resistance to it. Should I tighten it another smidge?? Until I cant move it or am I alright where I am??

And how tight should the lock nut be? I just made it snug but not too tight.

millball

This is what dark fairytales meant when he remarked that some things are more of an art than a science. You will gain experience over time.

I have adjusted solid tappets in hundreds of engines from VWs to International Harvester balers, to Brit and Italian motorcycles, on and on ad infinitum.....

For instance, a new valve and tappet will give less drag than a tappet that has worn a small divot in the valve stem top.

This is exactly why the go-no go feelers are best, because if you can push the blade past its step, you know it's too loose, so then you tighten the tappet so that it will just no longer pass the step and you've pretty much got it kicked.

On overhead cam engines like 22REs with high mileage, when the valve stem top is no longer flat and the tappet is worn into it, you can get a more accurate adjustment by placing the feeler between the base circle of the cam lobe and that end of the rocker arm.

As to the tappet tightening, I tighten 'em bout as tight as I comfortably can with a regular box end wrench; while holding the tappet screw with an appropriate screwdriver.

As a point of possible interest, I used to buy and install 'swivel foot' tappet ends in my VWs that prevented the wear at the rocker to valve stem interface.

They had a captured ball on the tappet end with a flat face that contacts the valve stem.

I've never looked into it but I wouldn't be supprised if such isn't available somewhere for our Toyotas.

mattyboi

So if I measure between the base lobe of the cam lobe and the end of the rocker arm is it still .007 anf .011?

millball

Think about it.. It has to be the same on both ends.

millball

I spoke too soon, and I am WRONG to say that the clearance will be identical. Wrong, Wrong Wrong!!

The clearance will only be the same if the rocker length is the same on both sides of the beam (the rocker shaft) ie a 1 to 1 ratio.

In the case of 22type Toyota engines, the rocker ratio is asymmetrical and so there IS some difference in clearance on the tappet side and the cam side

On a 22RE exhaust tappet set to a tight .011in, I measured a tight .009in on the cam side.

I apologize for disseminating BAD info. Sorry. I will be more careful in the future.

mattyboi

No worries, I realized that when my feeler gauge would not fit in there haha

So I tightened down the tappets just another hair (.007/.011 feeler gauge tighter between tappets) and it is much quieter again. I recorded a video on my phone and compared it to another I took a few months and there's a huge difference. The main one is that the engine no longer sounds like a small diesel. One thing that I did notice is that the ticking sound is almost none existent during the first few seconds of a cold start then slowly develops once things get going.

Now here's a thought. A lot of engine specs are based on the quality of oil. Considering that oil technology has developed tremendously, is it reasonable to say that we can tighten down those tappets a little bit more without causing any harm?

Anyway here's the after valve adjustment vid. On video it doesn't sounds that much better though, and I think in the after vid the idle is lower aswell.


And the beofre adjustment vid

RAD4Runner

Thanks for sharing the before and after vids. Yes, the after vid sounds quieter. Your idle seems a little higher than mine, but mine has louder ticking. I need to check those valves, too. Yes, agree on the go/no-go feeler gauge idea. We used that in the 80's when I was in the Navy.

se7enine

iTrader: (2)

I had a 93 4Runner with a 22re and you couldn't hear the engine at all. It was like opening up the hood on a camry. Wish I would of kept it.

mattyboi

That is a cold start idle though. Once it warms up it drops down to 800 or so.