58rennur4

iTrader: (1)

Ok yea yea, lots of threads about this but looking for fresh information and a new format for discussion about this. My rig is pure stock and will remain that way as best as possible.

So I am in the process of pulling everything out. Bell housing bolts on top are a pain and after dropping tranny a bit to give access I could not get a 3/8 drive ( twists) to torque enough to break bolt - then it got dark. Went out this morning to get 1/2 inch drive and going to get back at it - should be fine everything will be out.

Should have all parts next week so I want to get some trouble shooting comments before I actually start. I should have all parts correct for complete transfer except lever cover boots and console if I even have to change that. I am getting the 5 spd transmission/transfer box, transfer box bracket, correct fitting drive shafts, clutch kit, fly wheel, master cylinder, pedal, shift levers, linkages, hydraulic line from MC to SC, and what ever other happy crap I can't think of now.

Sooooooooo.....Please add comments and thoughts about the process that may help me avoid a headache. Anything you might add may be very helpful...

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

You already have a headache by not having the whole Donor vehicle right there.

So many brackets and little parts you will more then likely be missing

Your better off making a new hydraulic line down to the bracket where the rubber line attaches .

Trying to install a used line most likely it will break. trying to bend it around everything now in the way

Do you plan to pull the engine ??

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

dunno how fresh the comments could be, process is gonna be the same

I agree with wyoming9 make new lines buy the donor vehicle and drag it home

58rennur4

iTrader: (1)

No pulling engine...jacked up in yard atm...
No donor vehicle just getting parts from a guy who only works on Toyota's, and giving him my auto stuff...I'm sure something will come up...
Yea on new hoses makes sense, I was thinking too a new master cylinder.....

C'mon since I never did it you can add some things to consider...

58rennur4

iTrader: (1)

I do have a few questions:

The cable below the throttle cable which goes into the transmission pan WONT be needed - correct?

Also, with the transmission cooling lines which go into the radiator should I just plug each at radiator, say screw it and leave open, or run hose between the two holes?

old87yota

The cable that goes to the transmission from the throttle will not be needed.

I would remove the transmission cooler lines. The cooler inside of the radiator is (or should be) completely sealed from the engine coolant, so you can either plug up the radiator cooler or leave it open. There is no problem with doing either. If you ever think you will be putting the automatic back in and using the same radiator, then plug the lines to keep debris out.

old87yota

I would definitely buy new clutch hydraulics too!

58rennur4

iTrader: (1)

Ok thx... I plan to get a bigger radiator...next project...

58rennur4

iTrader: (1)

yes... on new hydraulics....


never will she be an auto again....

58rennur4

iTrader: (1)

Ok everything is out now...Do have a few questions. See picture YEA! ( and thanks folks)

Looks like I do not need to cut anything just need to get the 5 speed shifter assembly and mount into existing area pictured? Is that correct?

Also, there are two plugs the one on right was for PWR and NRML switch buttons to auto trans ( not needed any more),

The one on left I suspect went to starter, I guess, and I have 3 questions about that?

(1) Can someone confirm that please?

(2) Will I need to complete the circuit using those wires to make vehicle think it is in park ( to start?)

(3) Seems to me while doing this I could wire a hidden switch to that system of wires making a theft prevention system?

ANY OTHER THOUGHTS ABOUT ANYTHING ELSE BEFORE I GET STARTED INSTALLING NEXT WEEK? thx....

irab88

iTrader: (4)

Is that a rear-driveline disconnect?

The hole in the floor will need to be opened up a bit.

The N/P switch will be bypassed, instead going from the starter relay directly to the circuit opening relay. I forget what the clutch-switch wiring is like. Look at a wiring diagram to find it. Basically, it will be a lot simpler.

A theft prevention system is a good idea. And yes, it would be a good idea to do it now. Just don't show us where you hid the switch!

58rennur4

iTrader: (1)

I do not understand the first question... Unless you are asking if I removed the rear drive shaft - yes..

58rennur4

iTrader: (1)

Yea got everything, almost anyway, need a this or that but head long into it next few days...

58rennur4

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Got the goodies! Cleaning them up.. waiting on a few things...Bought new shift dust boots for tranny and tcase, tcase to tranny gasket, and new fork.

What can I use and where to get them? for Hard metal line master to slave?

58rennur4

iTrader: (1)

Do I leave the ECT - Transmission Control box plugged in or unplug it and take out? I understand about jumping the neutral switch and was thinking to wire them into the clutch. But not sure if the Neutral switch works through ECU or ECT or both - anyone?

58rennur4

iTrader: (1)

OK got started today and found a few trucks at the salvage yard and saw the routing for the hard line clutch hydraulics on a rig there. Seems two clips that route the brake hydraulics on my truck have a spot for the clutch line until it goes down to the transmission. I needed one more clip for hard line and got it off the salvage yard truck. An issue came up in that the top mounting bracket where the soft line to the slave cylinder starts ( upper) is not on my truck. I broke the welds off the salvage truck for the part and will have to get it attached. No room to weld it so I guess bolt it in through the floor board. (Suggestions???)

Getting the master cylinder hole drilled was a pain as I could not find my step bit and spent most the day looking for that. The old peddle bracket for the automatic would not come out, or getting access to, without removing the lower dash cover and the venting there. I also had to dissemble the larger break peddle to get it out. Once out I compared it to the manual assembly peddle brackets and there are some minor differences, but the important stuff is the same like bolt pattern, master cylinder mounting, and brake peddle alignment. So back in with the automatic peddle bracket so to get alignment on holes for master cylinder. The manual peddle bracket has studs to bolt on master cylinder , the automatic peddle bracket does not have studs for master cylinder, so holes need to be cut before mounting that. I can't find my router bits to smooth cut out so will just go buy some more tomorrow to smooth edges. I left about 1 mm to re-verify center and smooth edges.

In the middle of all this junk yard travel, tool shopping, honey-do's, and bracket removal seems everyone on eBay wanted to buy stuff from me and ask zillions of questions. I ended up selling, boxing, and shipping 800.00 worth of products between all that....Not a bad 7 hours spent...

I will update as progress is made....

86-turbo

When you bolt it through the floor, use a large washer on the inside to keep it from pulling the bolt through the floor over time.
I am doing the same thing in my restoration rebuild. Still need to work out the starter wiring. You can remove the Auto trans ECU it's not needed. Did you get the manual trans wiring harness to work the reverse light switch? I installed an LC Engineering short throw shift kit on my trans. Shaved about two inches off the shifte lever travel.

58rennur4

iTrader: (1)

No wire harness seems someone grabbed that. I was hoping I could use the existing wires. ( See quote below) But generally what a relief to only need two wires to the new trans/tcase as compared to the 3 bundles plus 2 other groups of wires for auto. If I remember right there was only one plug to the starter as set with stock auto. That plug is three wires separate from the ECT transmission controller (I think), but bundled together, which are the neutral safety switch and reverse light. It plugged into the auto shift lever box and I will jump those two ( or run them to the clutch peddle plug). I am not sure which wire to run to the transfer case for the 4wd light, but the least of my worries now. ( Suggestions?)

As for the shift leavers it did look tight. I had it 20 3/4 inches from adapter plate to the first longest stock cut on the auto cut out in floor board. That is dead center the shift lever forward in first on tranny so need to go forward on that cut a bit. I am not sure yet what clearance I need, if any, for the shift plate cover - hopefully I will not need any otherwise it will get real tight. I'll look at the LC short travel shift, but I am not that proud to bend the hell out of the lever, cut it in half, or modify any way needed I did buy a transmission jack adapter for my floor lift so that will make it much easier moving it around when time comes to verify cuts and whatnot. I also bought the Marlin Crawler transfer case mount which looks great and will make it easier to remove next clutch job - and seems way more durable with bushings instead of washers.

Thanks for the input on washer, I was also going to glue, bolt, and may be solder edges to also spread out that pressure for the long haul. But the large washer idea is a big deal helping that along - thanks...

Anything else you can add here about my questions is great OR if you want to add stuff about what you went through ( are going through) very welcome also. Thing is with so many threads about this conversion many are very incomplete. SO many people run into snags and don't want to post it "saving face" so to speak. ME on the other hand not too worried about posting I spent more time looking for my step bit then it took to drill the hole. I still have not found my deburring bits... Other threads have fallen into the dust bin of history and photos are not hosted any longer so those are very hard to follow especially when people use short hand writing style and refer to non existing pictures. Finally other threads are just illiterate with input from others who never did it and just regurgitate what they have read.

It always amazes me how many views a thread gets, but so few post when they could add valuable information. Oh well...

Here is a quote taking from 4x4 trail regarding the wiring:

58rennur4

iTrader: (1)

OK progress made today. So no markers on 1st run 85 4runner firewall as to where to drill holes for master cylinder, and bolts, free styled it but got the hole cut out well. I used a 35 mm spade bit which gave me a center from inside cab tapped with hammer and made a hole through fire wall. The 35mm spade bit was a good fit for the hole in pedal bracket which receives cylinder. However, the hole for the master cylinder is only about 30mm. Then it was drilled out with a step bit from the engine side drilling into the vehicle. Had to remove coil to make room for drill. I made hole cut to under 2mm short of what is required for Master cylinder. From there I filed it down with a half round file and it needed bias to the bottom and left. I was a tiny bit off center originally. By the time it was done I think I got it perfect! Was well lined with pedal.

The 86 pedal bracket had a minor misalignment on one bolt, but other then that all went in well. I think there were 8 bolts and the two studs for master cylinder for the 86 pedal assembly. I had to remove the brake to get it in and out. 7 of the bolts and the two studs lined up great ( missed lower stud by a few hairs no biggy). The last bolt pictured was just over 1/8 - 1/4 right of target due to a minor change to pedal bracket I guess. I just booger-ed out the hole and drilled a few cutting bolts in a bit sideways. The first few stripped bolt threads but by the 4th it seated well and torqued down. Definitely qualifies as "IN"..

A little measuring from adapter plate to floor opening, and measuring from front bell housing to stick shift cover plate on tranny on my floor, gave me the measurements for new bracket to house shifter. Cut all that out and hopefully I didn't go stupid during this process but will find out tomorrow. Tomorrow the clutch on and tranny back in...

58rennur4

iTrader: (1)

Alright clutch and tranny back in. All went well no major surprises. Pictures show the story. The transmission adapter on the floor jack with tranny on it W56b at the highest point was 26" ( top of the bell housing). Able to get car frame up 24" in back yard and just wiggles tranny forward and back to get into area under truck then lowered truck back down to do work. Tranny/tcase shifters lined up well with cuts in floor board. Since I no longer have welded bolts under floor board, to secure shift bracket, I was worried about lower nut access on the 6 bolts/nuts holding down bracket. I put then bracket in to mock up tranny shift alignment, but will have to remove for shifters to go back in. But plenty of room to all 6 nuts - non-issue.

Two of the automatic bell housing bolts ( top ones) were too long by 1/2 inch. Not sure if that is an auto to manual swap thing, or an 85 4runner auto with 86 4runner bell housing thing. Bought the Marlin Crawler transfer case mount that went in OK just took a little finagling and a few road bounces and she will meld to a custom fit for next time. The back right passenger side cross member bolt is spinning so I will get a longer bolt and another nut and lock her down that way.

Things left to do:
1.) Wait for clutch return spring ( Install and replace lower dash and venting)
2.) Wait for tranny shift bushing ( install and put shifters in) Got new dust covers for top plates.
3.) Get shorter bell housing bolts install (2).
4.) Install rear/front drive shaft and hope they fit
5.) Install Slave cylinder ( Need to install Bell Housing bolt first) and get a bead on soft line distance.
6.) Install the upper clutch soft line bracket (a pain) when slave cylinder is in to get right distance/placement.
7.) Jump safety switch, run reverse light wire, and run 4wd light wire.
8.) Bleed clutch, Fill tranny and tcase, and put battery back in - FIRE IT UP!

I need to source the front console part for 5 spd although I may be able to cut the auto one to work - not sure still may be too short to marry up with shorter coin tray. I needed to get a short version coin tray with button holes for rear window button and rear washer button - sourced that from eBay 20 bucks. The rest of the console should be fine. Other then that a nice leather shift cover to clean it all up. I have two old holes from auto shift mount I will use a few flat head short bolts to close them up.

I am sure I am missing something but that's all I got now