Intro and how to get over 300k
10-24-2015, 02:16 PM
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Intro and how to get over 300k
New to the forum here. Just saying hi.
I'm driving a 95' T100 4wd with the 3.4. Automatic. Pretty common setup. I've had it for 4 years and love it.
It's got about 5 square inches of body rust just above the rear wheels. I can't complain about that for a 20 year old truck but I'd love to prevent further spread.
It takes my wife and I on climbing trips all over the country. Lots in the Moab area but all over Colorado and Wyoming plus a few others as well. I've got it set up to store our gear underneath a platform and we sleep on top. It's a great setup except our dog insists on getting up at the crack of dawn.
I'm at 212k, bought this rig from my dad who bought it new when I was in high school. I've got 30k fewer miles on the motor because a shop screwed up on a minor gasket recall issue and it blew the engine when it was nearly new. I bet someone got yelled at by their boss that day.
OK, to my personal list.
Two years ago I had shocks on all 4 put on and some replacement hardware (tie rods and bushings I think) put on.
I just replaced the starter myself, not a single drop of oil on the tarp I parked over while I did it.
New brakes x4
New fuel pump 3 years ago (Broke down in Bishop, CA on a friday afternoon).
New valve cover gaskets 6 months ago.
New tires and alignment last week.
It's running smooth and perfect. My only issue the terrible squeaks coming from under the truck at low speed and minor bumps and jiggling. I want to attack the entire underside with aerosol grease. Where should I aim?
I do believe my neutral safety switch is going out. Once in a blue moon the ignition won't engage. If I shift into drive and back to park, it starts just fine. Am I correct with this guess?
What should I do maintenance wise to keep it going just as it is?
How long is this transmission going to last? 212k and to my knowledge it's only been drained and refilled a few times, never serviced. Maybe that's my priority.
Thanks guys.
I'm driving a 95' T100 4wd with the 3.4. Automatic. Pretty common setup. I've had it for 4 years and love it.
It's got about 5 square inches of body rust just above the rear wheels. I can't complain about that for a 20 year old truck but I'd love to prevent further spread.
It takes my wife and I on climbing trips all over the country. Lots in the Moab area but all over Colorado and Wyoming plus a few others as well. I've got it set up to store our gear underneath a platform and we sleep on top. It's a great setup except our dog insists on getting up at the crack of dawn.
I'm at 212k, bought this rig from my dad who bought it new when I was in high school. I've got 30k fewer miles on the motor because a shop screwed up on a minor gasket recall issue and it blew the engine when it was nearly new. I bet someone got yelled at by their boss that day.
OK, to my personal list.
Two years ago I had shocks on all 4 put on and some replacement hardware (tie rods and bushings I think) put on.
I just replaced the starter myself, not a single drop of oil on the tarp I parked over while I did it.
New brakes x4
New fuel pump 3 years ago (Broke down in Bishop, CA on a friday afternoon).
New valve cover gaskets 6 months ago.
New tires and alignment last week.
It's running smooth and perfect. My only issue the terrible squeaks coming from under the truck at low speed and minor bumps and jiggling. I want to attack the entire underside with aerosol grease. Where should I aim?
I do believe my neutral safety switch is going out. Once in a blue moon the ignition won't engage. If I shift into drive and back to park, it starts just fine. Am I correct with this guess?
What should I do maintenance wise to keep it going just as it is?
How long is this transmission going to last? 212k and to my knowledge it's only been drained and refilled a few times, never serviced. Maybe that's my priority.
Thanks guys.
02-20-2016, 05:29 AM
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This is old now but did you get yoru answers to this?
If not: A340e is a good tranny and easy to find a replacment - but around 240k I had one fail on me - so our getting close.
Maint - I would do the water pump and timing belt every 80k without question.
The neutral safety switch question, ahd the same problem on my old T - it wasn't' the neutral safety switch it was actually my ignition key - where you put the key in - was failing - the tumbler I believe is what they call it - replaced it never had a problem again.
Typical squeaks come from the leaf springs - so every where they make contact or flex is good - then balljoints should be replaced - I recommend Moog if you have never done the balljoints - if you have just make sure you pump them full of grease every 5k or so, takes seconds. Then the torsien bars are known to groin and make some noise.
Fuel filter's I do every 20-30k or if your way up north once a year after the winter gas is gone
Always remember to flush the radiator and put the real coolant in - toyota recommended as quite a few coolants out there will eat the aluminum heads...
Do differential fluid changes every 75k as this is often overlooked. And Check your wheel bearings - often overlooked. Is your vehicle tagged in a state with smog? If not - do an egr delete and consider some new cats - they are more than likely dirty or clogged at this point in time and robbing you of power and mileage. I am a beliver in Seafoam as well to help clean out carbon and sludge as well - but i know once you do it properly - you will have dirty cats, need new/clean plugs, and o2's if it's bad inside as it tends to stick at those points once you get the mess out of the engine.
If not: A340e is a good tranny and easy to find a replacment - but around 240k I had one fail on me - so our getting close.
Maint - I would do the water pump and timing belt every 80k without question.
The neutral safety switch question, ahd the same problem on my old T - it wasn't' the neutral safety switch it was actually my ignition key - where you put the key in - was failing - the tumbler I believe is what they call it - replaced it never had a problem again.
Typical squeaks come from the leaf springs - so every where they make contact or flex is good - then balljoints should be replaced - I recommend Moog if you have never done the balljoints - if you have just make sure you pump them full of grease every 5k or so, takes seconds. Then the torsien bars are known to groin and make some noise.
Fuel filter's I do every 20-30k or if your way up north once a year after the winter gas is gone
Always remember to flush the radiator and put the real coolant in - toyota recommended as quite a few coolants out there will eat the aluminum heads...
Do differential fluid changes every 75k as this is often overlooked. And Check your wheel bearings - often overlooked. Is your vehicle tagged in a state with smog? If not - do an egr delete and consider some new cats - they are more than likely dirty or clogged at this point in time and robbing you of power and mileage. I am a beliver in Seafoam as well to help clean out carbon and sludge as well - but i know once you do it properly - you will have dirty cats, need new/clean plugs, and o2's if it's bad inside as it tends to stick at those points once you get the mess out of the engine.
12-29-2017, 08:42 PM
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I assume it's worth about $2500 still. The engine seems fine. I actually think my transmission in this truck works better than in my 08 Subaru.
I need new CV joints and possibly other components in the area. New tires up front and an alignment. I'm assuming this is around $1500 but I am not sure.
My exhaust is pretty much shot too. I'm throwing catalytic codes and have a big loud hole in the muffler. I reckon I could replace these with cheap universal fit 49 state legal models, but I'd still need someone to weld it for me. Probably $400-$500 total for this.
So like $2000 to fix the major problems and its still an older, rougher, squeaky truck. Not sure what will be next.
I was hoping to keep this for about two more years. I do have the budget to get a late model lower mileage truck now, but am not in a hurry to get a car payment.
What are your thoughts on this?
12-30-2017, 05:42 PM
#6
For $2000, you could buy a pretty nice welder and learn to weld the exhaust system. The cat codes could be caused from the exhaust leak, depends if it's before or after the cat. CV axles aren't too expensive, the job doesn't take too much for special tools, you could do it your self for so much cheaper than a shop if you are capable. It never hurts to learn something new, worst case you have to pay someone to fix it correctly (might be a little more than w\o you touching cuz of the extra work on them).
Personally speaking, the T100 was one of the best built toyota pickups and they have gone down hill in build quality since the 95 tacoma and on wards. I had a really nice 1996 tacoma, frame looked great, body had a tiny bit of rust in the rear fenders, and after a couple years driving it, the frame gave out at the leaf spring. It rusted out from the inside so inspection was basically useless. Just about every T100 I've bought for parts has a good frame, every Tacoma I've bought has a bad frame. The older pickups 84-88 era are the same story, all but one have had a bad frame, most have been sitting for years though. 89-95 seems to be hit and miss. I live in Michigan and they use a LOT of salt on the roads. My daily driver is a 1998 T100 with 225k miles and was from up north (even more salt there). Only issue it has was the fender well rusted though and killed the ecu, replacing that and patching the hole I've had rear break line failure, but besides that has been a great truck for hauling wood and picking up other misc toyota's lol.
Long story short, I'd say fix the T100, if you keep up on repairs, it doesn't get to the point that the repair is as much as replacing it. The engine/trans are known to last very well, axles hold up well as long as you're not trying to kill it, body rust is about their main problem. The 3.4L can be a bit pickey on the intake side at times, cleaning the intake is something to do once in a while. Besides that I can't really fault the truck.
One thing that's handy to have is a parts truck, but if you live in the city that's generally not acceptable. Having parts on hand can make diag so much easier when you're a DIYer. Around here a T100 runs about $1000-1500 in average shape, if it's from down south and is rust free it can be $2500-5000. Parts trucks tend to run about $500, there's a reason 2 parts trucks run about the same price as a running / driving truck lol.
Personally speaking, the T100 was one of the best built toyota pickups and they have gone down hill in build quality since the 95 tacoma and on wards. I had a really nice 1996 tacoma, frame looked great, body had a tiny bit of rust in the rear fenders, and after a couple years driving it, the frame gave out at the leaf spring. It rusted out from the inside so inspection was basically useless. Just about every T100 I've bought for parts has a good frame, every Tacoma I've bought has a bad frame. The older pickups 84-88 era are the same story, all but one have had a bad frame, most have been sitting for years though. 89-95 seems to be hit and miss. I live in Michigan and they use a LOT of salt on the roads. My daily driver is a 1998 T100 with 225k miles and was from up north (even more salt there). Only issue it has was the fender well rusted though and killed the ecu, replacing that and patching the hole I've had rear break line failure, but besides that has been a great truck for hauling wood and picking up other misc toyota's lol.
Long story short, I'd say fix the T100, if you keep up on repairs, it doesn't get to the point that the repair is as much as replacing it. The engine/trans are known to last very well, axles hold up well as long as you're not trying to kill it, body rust is about their main problem. The 3.4L can be a bit pickey on the intake side at times, cleaning the intake is something to do once in a while. Besides that I can't really fault the truck.
One thing that's handy to have is a parts truck, but if you live in the city that's generally not acceptable. Having parts on hand can make diag so much easier when you're a DIYer. Around here a T100 runs about $1000-1500 in average shape, if it's from down south and is rust free it can be $2500-5000. Parts trucks tend to run about $500, there's a reason 2 parts trucks run about the same price as a running / driving truck lol.
12-30-2017, 08:27 PM
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94 DLX 2WD Std cab with 188K miles, 3.0 liter 3vze
The truck had two previous owners when I bought it in October 1996 and shortly after, it was recalled for a head gasket replacement (remember that?). Since then, countless parts have been replaced thru maintenance or failure but the total cost (knock on wood) has been less than a replacement vehicle. Last year, after looking increasingly sad and slightly derelict, I did some DIY body work - rust removal, welding, sanding & priming before dropping off the truck at the local AAMCO franchise for a coat of paint. The color is close to factory spec's and much nicer looking than rust spots and peeled clear coat.
Rust at the top of the rear wheel wells - Cutting into the sheet metal to remove the rust spots at the top of the arc exposed a cache of old gravel, mulch, topsoil, leaves, etc. that had dropped into the stake pocket years ago, retained moisture and promoted rust. It just wouldn't flush out with a hose. After the paint job, the stake pockets were capped with pocket tie downs that block debris from entering. The front and rear stake pockets flush out perfectly - it's the middle ones that are a problem.
The 3VZE engine is a notorious oil leaker (and tends to burn a little, too). The worst leaks usually occur at the valve cover gaskets, rear camshaft seals and the oil cooler assembly. A leaking power steering pump was another mess, including a failing reinforced hose going down to the steering assembly.
Changing the engine oil every 3-5k miles helps, as well as keeping the sump topped off, especially when hauling or driving long distances. While you're under the front end, lube the sealed ball joints with a syringe needle fitted to a grease gun. Poke a hole in the seal and fill the joint with grease. Use the same hole next time.
Transmission maintenance is often overlooked because the unit is out of sight and doesn't get noticed until it starts growling & grinding. Flushing the transmission is nice but dropping the tranny pan is best. Drain the transmission completely and replace the filter. Dropping the tranny pan is the world's messiest job, guaranteed to ruin your clothes, driveway and mood. If you have the coin, take your baby to a trusted shop where they have a lift or lube pit and catch pans to handle the runoff. Try it once yourself and see what I mean.
Road salt is the enemy. After driving on our Mid-Atlantic states salty winter roads, I try to flush the chassis, wheel wells, axles, brakes, control arms, etc. with fresh water ASAP. Rust Reformer is slowing the decay but it ain't prefect. If you live on the West Coast, you're golden - no salted roads and you have some of the nicest looking old vehicles.
Rust at the top of the rear wheel wells - Cutting into the sheet metal to remove the rust spots at the top of the arc exposed a cache of old gravel, mulch, topsoil, leaves, etc. that had dropped into the stake pocket years ago, retained moisture and promoted rust. It just wouldn't flush out with a hose. After the paint job, the stake pockets were capped with pocket tie downs that block debris from entering. The front and rear stake pockets flush out perfectly - it's the middle ones that are a problem.
The 3VZE engine is a notorious oil leaker (and tends to burn a little, too). The worst leaks usually occur at the valve cover gaskets, rear camshaft seals and the oil cooler assembly. A leaking power steering pump was another mess, including a failing reinforced hose going down to the steering assembly.
Changing the engine oil every 3-5k miles helps, as well as keeping the sump topped off, especially when hauling or driving long distances. While you're under the front end, lube the sealed ball joints with a syringe needle fitted to a grease gun. Poke a hole in the seal and fill the joint with grease. Use the same hole next time.
Transmission maintenance is often overlooked because the unit is out of sight and doesn't get noticed until it starts growling & grinding. Flushing the transmission is nice but dropping the tranny pan is best. Drain the transmission completely and replace the filter. Dropping the tranny pan is the world's messiest job, guaranteed to ruin your clothes, driveway and mood. If you have the coin, take your baby to a trusted shop where they have a lift or lube pit and catch pans to handle the runoff. Try it once yourself and see what I mean.
Road salt is the enemy. After driving on our Mid-Atlantic states salty winter roads, I try to flush the chassis, wheel wells, axles, brakes, control arms, etc. with fresh water ASAP. Rust Reformer is slowing the decay but it ain't prefect. If you live on the West Coast, you're golden - no salted roads and you have some of the nicest looking old vehicles.
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12-31-2017, 01:07 AM
#8
i still have the truck. It's got 243k now and running ok. I'm approaching the spot where I'm considering replacement of the truck vs fixing it.
I assume it's worth about $2500 still. The engine seems fine. I actually think my transmission in this truck works better than in my 08 Subaru.
I need new CV joints and possibly other components in the area. New tires up front and an alignment. I'm assuming this is around $1500 but I am not sure.
My exhaust is pretty much shot too. I'm throwing catalytic codes and have a big loud hole in the muffler. I reckon I could replace these with cheap universal fit 49 state legal models, but I'd still need someone to weld it for me. Probably $400-$500 total for this.
So like $2000 to fix the major problems and its still an older, rougher, squeaky truck. Not sure what will be next.
I was hoping to keep this for about two more years. I do have the budget to get a late model lower mileage truck now, but am not in a hurry to get a car payment.
What are your thoughts on this?
I assume it's worth about $2500 still. The engine seems fine. I actually think my transmission in this truck works better than in my 08 Subaru.
I need new CV joints and possibly other components in the area. New tires up front and an alignment. I'm assuming this is around $1500 but I am not sure.
My exhaust is pretty much shot too. I'm throwing catalytic codes and have a big loud hole in the muffler. I reckon I could replace these with cheap universal fit 49 state legal models, but I'd still need someone to weld it for me. Probably $400-$500 total for this.
So like $2000 to fix the major problems and its still an older, rougher, squeaky truck. Not sure what will be next.
I was hoping to keep this for about two more years. I do have the budget to get a late model lower mileage truck now, but am not in a hurry to get a car payment.
What are your thoughts on this?
12-31-2017, 11:59 PM
#9
The 5vz also has the valve cover leak "issue", I think it's more due to age than a bad design. Every 3.4L I've had has atleast signs of the valve cover leaking and generally the 10mm bolts are loose from the rubber seal shrinking from age. Sometimes it stops the leak, but it's best to replace the valve cover seals.
Transmission is defo one thing a lot of people overlook, the only time I've seen failed transmissions in a Toyota is from neglect (old or low fluid). Nearly the same story for the engines, except the most common blown up engines are thrown rod(s) shortly after a rebuild. That's atleast the case for the 8 or so 22r/22re engines I've had, 2 had #1 rod exit the block, one had a spun bearing, all 3 after a rebuild. I guess it's from people doing rebuilds DIY w\o measuring tolerances to make sure things are in spec.
Transmission is defo one thing a lot of people overlook, the only time I've seen failed transmissions in a Toyota is from neglect (old or low fluid). Nearly the same story for the engines, except the most common blown up engines are thrown rod(s) shortly after a rebuild. That's atleast the case for the 8 or so 22r/22re engines I've had, 2 had #1 rod exit the block, one had a spun bearing, all 3 after a rebuild. I guess it's from people doing rebuilds DIY w\o measuring tolerances to make sure things are in spec.
01-01-2018, 02:07 PM
#10
The 5vz also has the valve cover leak "issue", I think it's more due to age than a bad design. Every 3.4L I've had has atleast signs of the valve cover leaking and generally the 10mm bolts are loose from the rubber seal shrinking from age. Sometimes it stops the leak, but it's best to replace the valve cover seals.
Transmission is defo one thing a lot of people overlook, the only time I've seen failed transmissions in a Toyota is from neglect (old or low fluid). Nearly the same story for the engines, except the most common blown up engines are thrown rod(s) shortly after a rebuild. That's atleast the case for the 8 or so 22r/22re engines I've had, 2 had #1 rod exit the block, one had a spun bearing, all 3 after a rebuild. I guess it's from people doing rebuilds DIY w\o measuring tolerances to make sure things are in spec.
Transmission is defo one thing a lot of people overlook, the only time I've seen failed transmissions in a Toyota is from neglect (old or low fluid). Nearly the same story for the engines, except the most common blown up engines are thrown rod(s) shortly after a rebuild. That's atleast the case for the 8 or so 22r/22re engines I've had, 2 had #1 rod exit the block, one had a spun bearing, all 3 after a rebuild. I guess it's from people doing rebuilds DIY w\o measuring tolerances to make sure things are in spec.
The 5vz does not have a valve cover leak issue, its a common thing because most people never change them and the start to leak. All you do is apply new sealant to the cam plugs and half moons, and new spark plug seals and valve cover gaskets. The newer ones ( you can buy them from orileys) Are really nice new updated silicone gaskets that work amazing. And they are lined with aluminum. They are awesome and the set is 38 bucks. I always use some blue valve cover silcone for the plugs and moons. So thats not even a flaw just a common thing that people have to replace because most of the time people never replace them. What i do with my personal T100 3.4 is alot of different things. I always do coolant flushes, and some good oil additive in the engine, A bigger oil filter and a spacer between the filter and the block for my aftermarket oil cooler. I run good quality oil in both diffs and tranny. A solid undercoating and a good wash all the time. Only the regular cab T100s had the bracket issue, but it wasnt very common. I have had my 95 psd along side my T100 for over 15 years and i have been through 4 trannys with my psd but 0 with any of my T100s. I don't like A/c so i gutted the entire ac system. I run a custom short ram intake and i run super unleaded . I run a can of seafoam in my tank whenever i feel like it and a can in the intake whenever i feel like it. I don't listen to torque specs and i have tightened all my bolts like my valve covers to just a good snug tight point. ( torque specs are only useful for stuff like engine rebulids and head bolts.). My intake and throttle body is super clean inside along with my iac. I gutted all the evac system and any vaccum line sensors, and i either cap all my vaccum lines or use them for something like power steering or my brakes. I let all my pcv system vent into the air and they just have a filter, no pcv valve either. I run a high flow cat and no muffler. This motor has 322k miles ( truck has 150k) and runs better than new. Never loose coolant and never smokes. I have tightened my torsion bars and i have a total chaos long arm travel kit with bomb proof unijoints im ordering soon i have 30 inch tires ( 17s of a 2016 4 runner) And im soon ordering 2 600 buck T100 winch shackle bumpers. All in all the T100 along side the 3rd gen 4 runner was the best damn truck Toyota has ever made ( alongside the Fj40, and the toyota pickup, 1St and 2nd gen 4 runners, ) . I say just stay ontop of your 5vz and take care of it. If your worried about HG install headers and use heatwrap, or just use headwrap, because the main cause of Hg failure is the hot exaust behind the passenger head . Clean your maf ever once in awhile and run the best damn front o2 sensor, plug and wires. Install multiple grounds for better power flow and keep everything tight. Open your hood often and just check all the fluids( don't worry about the damn hood hindges their made to open all the time) Never overheat it and keep ontop of the oil. Run some stp or lucas with synthetic oil in your oil changes. Theirs nothing i haven't done on these motors and i love them, I love T100s. The T100 is the father of the tundra, respect your father! And Tacoma's rust like hell. T100s don't have rust problem's. Change your balljoints. And theirs alot of aftermarket T100 stuff, you just have to dig deep into the web, I have tons of bookmarks of all kinds of aftermarket cool stuff. If you want to sell your truck ill pm you my phone number drive from orem utah.
01-17-2018, 09:57 PM
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So I went ahead and took my truck in to the mechanic. I simply don't have the time anymore to do major repairs anymore.
I ended up with front shocks, ball joints, CV joints, an alignment, a new muffler, and tailpipe. Cost me about $1400. It's running like a champ again.
Just not ready to give up on this one.
I ended up with front shocks, ball joints, CV joints, an alignment, a new muffler, and tailpipe. Cost me about $1400. It's running like a champ again.
Just not ready to give up on this one.
01-18-2018, 06:01 AM
#12
So I went ahead and took my truck in to the mechanic. I simply don't have the time anymore to do major repairs anymore.
I ended up with front shocks, ball joints, CV joints, an alignment, a new muffler, and tailpipe. Cost me about $1400. It's running like a champ again.
Just not ready to give up on this one.
I ended up with front shocks, ball joints, CV joints, an alignment, a new muffler, and tailpipe. Cost me about $1400. It's running like a champ again.
Just not ready to give up on this one.
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