84-85 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd gen pickups and 1st gen 4Runners with solid front axles

1985 22r pickup, no spark but engine cranks

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Old 07-09-2015, 12:17 PM
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1985 22r pickup, no spark but engine cranks

Hello Yotatech ! I am in need of assistance with my 1985 Toyota pickup with a 22r engine. I drove off to go to work and it sounded a little rough, died at a stop sign, and then cranks, but won't start. I wasn't getting any spark, so I replaced the distributor cap/rotor, and plug wires. I also replaced the ignition coil. There are no blown fuses or fuseable links. I am not very savvy about this truck since it has always run fine & not needed repair for 150,000 miles. I ordered a new ingnitor that will be here tomorrow, but I have also seen talk of a coil in the distibutor being bad, but can't seem to find very esay instructions to for a 1st timer that hasn't had to do timing adjustments(if that is even needed to replace the coil). I seem to be able to smell fuel after cranking, so I hope the fuel pump still works, but don't know how to check it. I have also read of a cranking sensor that will cut the fuel and electric, but don't know how to get to it. I suppose if I could find a reliable way to check the fuel pump, then I would at least know that it wasn't the cranking sensor.Any help out there for novice YotaTecher?
Old 10-12-2015, 04:05 PM
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Try the Haynes manual? I will check my copy for the coil you are talking about and take a picture of it for you if it says anything. That said, I wouldn't necessarily worry about the fuel smell-if you have no spark then you're just dumping fuel into the cylinders when you crank it, so it's going to smell a little bit.
Old 01-26-2016, 06:25 PM
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Sorry replied on the wrong thread here

Last edited by samx227; 01-26-2016 at 06:25 PM. Reason: Wrong thread.
Old 05-12-2016, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by sandyota
Hello Yotatech ! I am in need of assistance with my 1985 Toyota pickup with a 22r engine. I drove off to go to work and it sounded a little rough, died at a stop sign, and then cranks, but won't start. I wasn't getting any spark, so I replaced the distributor cap/rotor, and plug wires. I also replaced the ignition coil. There are no blown fuses or fuseable links. I am not very savvy about this truck since it has always run fine & not needed repair for 150,000 miles. I ordered a new ingnitor that will be here tomorrow, but I have also seen talk of a coil in the distibutor being bad, but can't seem to find very esay instructions to for a 1st timer that hasn't had to do timing adjustments(if that is even needed to replace the coil). I seem to be able to smell fuel after cranking, so I hope the fuel pump still works, but don't know how to check it. I have also read of a cranking sensor that will cut the fuel and electric, but don't know how to get to it. I suppose if I could find a reliable way to check the fuel pump, then I would at least know that it wasn't the cranking sensor.Any help out there for novice YotaTecher?
My 83 did the same thing check the sparkplugs
Old 10-29-2016, 09:56 PM
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Hi Sandyota....my 1985 base pickup 22r did exactly the same thing as yours. In fact, I could have written verbatim your post as I've walked in those same shoes.

Did you ever find the answer?

It's been 10 months now for me, and we haven't been able to diagnose the problem. I'm not a mechanic, but my two older brothers have each worked in garages and offered a helping hand to their little brother (me) to no avail. Like you we started by putting in new sparkplugs, changed out the alternator, and then replaced the distributor cap and plug wires with new OEM parts. The battery is new and has a charge. Still, nothing.

Before it stalled on me on Christmas Eve, 2015 at a red light near the mall (ugh), I noted that from time to time it would die on me when I used gas that had 10% ethanol. So we siphoned all the gas out of the tank, replaced the fuel filter, and poured new 100% gasoline. Still nothing.

I appreciate any advice/help you may offer.
Old 11-01-2016, 02:20 PM
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3 main areas to check in this order:

Signal Generator (better known as a pickup coil). Ohm it out - It should register 140-180 ohms.

Ignition Coil

Ignitor
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OldRusty (10-07-2021)
Old 03-03-2017, 09:31 AM
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What do you do when you put all new components into your ignition system and still have no spark?
My 85 Xtra-Cab lost spark a week ago and nothing has helped and nothing includes a completely new ignition system of new igniter, new ignition coil and new pickup coil, she'll crank all day and not fire.
I'm at my wit's end and am about to call in a professional unless one of you has a fix I can perform.
Old 03-03-2017, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by fasterspider
What do you do when you put all new components into your ignition system and still have no spark?
My 85 Xtra-Cab lost spark a week ago and nothing has helped and nothing includes a completely new ignition system of new igniter, new ignition coil and new pickup coil, she'll crank all day and not fire.
I'm at my wit's end and am about to call in a professional unless one of you has a fix I can perform.
I have a thread from a couple months ago with the same symptoms. I replaced everything with no luck. My distributor gap was WAY off, and I replaced all plugs and wires, in addition to what you mentioned. Do that, and do the FSM troubleshooting steps. Then it was a matter of cranking and pressing the gas a bit. Since then it starts on the first or second crank.

There is a possibility you got bad parts, but the troubleshooting would help you identify those. User CO_pu_94 was very helpful.
Old 03-03-2017, 11:08 AM
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I've done all that and everything I can think of is within spec, none of the old parts were bad but, I changed them anyway because something is bad and pissing me off.
I have requests for info to all of my more knowledgeable which is everyone I know trying to find someone that can give me a damn clue.
Old 03-03-2017, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by fasterspider
I've done all that and everything I can think of is within spec, none of the old parts were bad but, I changed them anyway because something is bad and pissing me off.
I have requests for info to all of my more knowledgeable which is everyone I know trying to find someone that can give me a damn clue.
Sometimes these things can be a very simple little bit. Back in the 70s I was helping a friend chase a no firing ignition. Threw various parts at it, including a new rotor, which he . . . forgot to put in the distributor.

Are your grounds all good? All the wires plugged into the right place etc. Try going back to the basics.
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Fm900 (02-06-2021)
Old 03-03-2017, 01:28 PM
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This has got to be the most freaky no spark issue ever because I know how to check and change the ignition system in my Yota but, this is not a normal no spark issue.
There was an audible pop the 1st time she wouldn't start like she almost did and then pop, no spark and no parts thrown at it have done any good.
New GM ignition module, Toyota parts fresh out of the box, it didn't do dick and I missed out on the biggest 4x4 event of March in So Cal.
Oh well, it must be a sign to buy a 2004 V6 Taco with air conditioning and put my 85 solid axle and other 4x4 components in including the dual transfer cases via an adapter.

​​​​​​
Old 04-30-2017, 06:35 PM
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Well, new here guys, but I just replaced my second igniter. Running fine and then dead, cranked over, no start. The new ones are very expensive, so used parts work. I even have an extra one in the truck now for next time. Good luck.
Old 04-30-2017, 06:37 PM
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I fixed my rig by replacing the distributor.
Old 06-30-2019, 10:50 PM
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Well, sounds like that was it. Checked my reverse light wire connector and the wires were sitting on the exhaust pipe, melted threw. So, the wire to the switch where it connects to the tranny is dried out and hard as a rock and the wires are melted threw right at the connector..... anyone have an idea where to get a new wire, connector to sender?
Old 07-17-2019, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by helidriver
Well, sounds like that was it. Checked my reverse light wire connector and the wires were sitting on the exhaust pipe, melted threw. So, the wire to the switch where it connects to the tranny is dried out and hard as a rock and the wires are melted threw right at the connector..... anyone have an idea where to get a new wire, connector to sender?
Im pretty sure you commented in the wrong thread. To answer your question though, most part stores sell connector pigtails. I'm not sure if they sell the reverse light connector on toyotas. You might have to hit a junk yard. If you have to go yard hunting, the connector for the the 4x4 light on the front differential of ADD trucks are the same. They actually use the same switch. Same with the locked indicator switches on toy e-lockers. I have also found with some shortening of the plug of the reverse light switch, the connector for a 3.0 ignition coil can work too. Its a little of a tight fit but it does work.
Old 08-25-2019, 11:13 PM
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Idk if this thread is still current but I’m haveing the Same problem on my 85 Xtra-Cab found this broken ground but idk where it goes
Old 10-09-2019, 07:11 PM
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22re ground guide

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-guide-194413/
Old 02-04-2021, 07:03 AM
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exactly how to ohm it ,where to place leads?
Old 02-04-2021, 11:16 AM
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You don't need to ohm out the grounds. You need to visually inspect them. Negative battery terminal: Clean and shiny, no corrosion between the battery post and the terminal, no corrosion on the cables. If the wires on the terminal are open, ie: you can see the actual wires inside the cable's insulation, make certain there's no corrosion that's gotten down inside the insulation. Battery acid tends to do that. There should be at least two cable off the battery. One to the body, and there's a great place to do that just forward of the battery, just behind the headlights. Make sure the ring terminal on the cable is nice and clean. Shiny. And that the place it bolts to is clean and free of paint,corrosion, and so on. The other cable off the battery runs down to the engine block, usually where the AC compressor mount is. Again, clean, etc etc.
The one from the head to the body runs from the head, where the lifting hook is bolted in, to the body, the firewall just behind the headss. This is the main ground for the spark plugs, so it's very important. Same as before, both ends clean, no corrosion, etc.
Last, but not least, is the one from the alternator to the PS pump mounting bracket.
There are also two ground points inside the cab. One under each side's kick panel. Same concerns as the others. The one under the driver's side kick panel has kind of a peculiar ring terminal on it, with several wires crimped into it on two separate crimps, both part of the ring terminal. Check them for looseness. And all the rest. Corrosion, paint, etc.

Good luck!
Pat☺
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