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-   -   So you think you have a 500watt amp? (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f96/so-you-think-you-have-500watt-amp-83985/)

NisAznMonk 04-18-2006 12:37 PM

So you think you have a 500watt amp?
 
What do you think of this amp? :D

http://www.nisaznmonk.com/images/wha...%20(Small).jpg
http://www.nisaznmonk.com/images/wha...%20(Small).jpg
http://www.nisaznmonk.com/images/wha...%20(Small).jpg

Localmotion 04-18-2006 12:38 PM

did you make that?

thats jawesome! :bowdown: :drink: now go get it powdercoated from J!

cootees 04-18-2006 12:48 PM


Originally Posted by Localmotion
did you make that?

thats jawesome! :bowdown: :drink: now go get it powdercoated from J!

:good:

DavidA 04-18-2006 01:36 PM

Now that is just plain fraud. Silly. Or maybe it is upgradeable...rightttttttt....

Turd Ferguson 04-18-2006 01:43 PM

Where's the capacitors? That tiny little transformer has to put the juice somewhere or it'll do nothing but suck power down the line from your battery...


Either that or I'm overanalyzing again. :D

midiwall 04-18-2006 02:14 PM

Have you fired it up yet? You may end up with some resonance issues from the small coil on channel 1. That winding looks pretty off...

And Mr. Turd has a point - you're gonna wanna run some good sized caps on the leading edge.

I trust that's a straight up Class A design? There's nothing more on the underside of the board, right?

NisAznMonk 04-19-2006 08:53 AM

WOW I really hope some of you were actually being sarcastic with your overanalyzed posts. :)

Either way I stole those pics off of www.realmofexcursion.com under the brand name Wharf. I always love looking at amps where most of the chassis is filled with air. I guess you can make power off of oxygen :)

midiwall 04-19-2006 09:41 AM


Originally Posted by NisAznMonk
WOW I really hope some of you were actually being sarcastic with your overanalyzed posts. :)

Either way I stole those pics off of www.realmofexcursion.com under the brand name Wharf. I always love looking at amps where most of the chassis is filled with air. I guess you can make power off of oxygen :)

Ahh... so it's not yours! :)


Yeah, actually that amp looks pretty straight forward. If you flipped the board over you'd find the power transistors which are the actual "amplifiers". They'll be mounted to the heat sink (black plate) for heat dispersion.

It looks like it would be a Class B amp (I was wrong before in saying Class A) - one that amplifies only one side of a signal.

There's really not much in an amp... you can "amplify" a signal with very few components, a lot of the side work is there to keep things under control, provide for clipping protection, noise filtering, DC isolation, etc.

The air space is for real... Cranked up that thing will generate a lot of heat, and you need to combat it with air space. The mechanical design there is more about having enough physical space for the heat sink and not about the air inside the cabinet (though it helps, but it would help more if there were vent holes). It looks like he didn't want to run a fan, so he's looking to bleed off heat with only a sink. It's a valid design choice...

Tacoclimber 04-19-2006 09:49 AM


Originally Posted by midiwall
Ahh... so it's not yours! :)


Yeah, actually that amp looks pretty straight forward. If you flipped the board over you'd find the power transistors which are the actual "amplifiers". They'll be mounted to the heat sink (black plate) for heat dispersion.

It looks like it would be a Class B amp (I was wrong before in saying Class A) - one that amplifies only one side of a signal.

There's really not much in an amp... you can "amplify" a signal with very few components, a lot of the side work is there to keep things under control, provide for clipping protection, noise filtering, DC isolation, etc.

The air space is for real... Cranked up that thing will generate a lot of heat, and you need to combat it with air space. The mechanical design there is more about having enough physical space for the heat sink and not about the air inside the cabinet (though it helps, but it would help more if there were vent holes). It looks like he didn't want to run a fan, so he's looking to bleed off heat with only a sink. It's a valid design choice...


Like, wow, man.....my head hurts now.... :hillbill:

Bumpin' Yota 04-21-2006 02:12 PM


Originally Posted by midiwall
...The air space is for real... Cranked up that thing will generate a lot of heat, and you need to combat it with air space. The mechanical design there is more about having enough physical space for the heat sink and not about the air inside the cabinet (though it helps, but it would help more if there were vent holes). It looks like he didn't want to run a fan, so he's looking to bleed off heat with only a sink. It's a valid design choice...

While I'm no designer of amps, I am a bit skeptical of needing THAT much air space...lol ;) My MTX 81000d's had no fans and would operate hours on end running WAY below recommended impeadance. Even my incriminator 20.1s (1800w rms @ 1ohm) have zero issues despite having no fan and running at 0.35 dcr. (though they do get warm after about 3 hours of play time.)

The difference I think may be that both the 81000d and the 20.1 tip the scales at over 22lbs each from their massive aluminum heatsinks. Maybe the pictured amp has that much airspace because the heat sink isn't massive enough to dissipate the heat the transformers produce? Is that what you meant? :)

midiwall 04-21-2006 02:42 PM


Originally Posted by Bumpin' Yota
While I'm no designer of amps, I am a bit skeptical of needing THAT much air space...lol ;)

Oh, I don't think it does eider! I'm pretty sure the air space is there only 'cause he ran that huge arse heat sink. :)

Oh wait... I guess my post is a bit sideways huh? Sorry..

Yes, I agree that I don't think that amp is kicking enough to justify that large of a heatsink, though it will get pretty warm. And of course the air space is a side effect of the heat sink. My guess is that the guy winged it without actually doing any math or tyring the circuit. _SOME_ heat is okay, a lot of course is bad. I'd bet that he wanted that thing to run ice cold. :)

If that's the design I think it is, then basically power output will only really be dependent on how much power it can suck off of the DC. As long as you keep the outputs from toasting, it should keep on going.

I'd bet that he got a surprise when he first kicked it on. :)

Turd Ferguson 04-23-2006 09:34 AM

Bumpin-

Remember the old Xtant 1001 series amps? You could daisy chain them together and run 2000 watts RMS at .5 Ohm stable and it wouldn't roast itself... IIRC a lot of that stuff went into the MTX's once the takeover was completed.

ldivinag 04-30-2006 11:23 PM

lemme give you a funny story...

a fewwwwwww years ago, probably early 90s, at the vegas CES show (back then vegas was the winter and chicago was the summer show), i was browsing the high end audio part.

this one room, i saw a typical home amp. gigantic box. but with a sign that says something like "great sounding up, $500"...

it was surpising since we all know typical high end home audio amps like to run in the four figures (and more).

until they propped the chassis and it revealed the (then) great PHOENIX GOLD legendary MPS-50 (man i hope that was the model #) amp.

a big box containing a typical car audio amp... lol......

4-RUNNIN' FREAK 06-11-2006 11:42 AM

200 watt Firestorm amp

http://www.splbassx.com/forums/uploa...1076471733.jpg

Greg_Canada 06-12-2006 02:03 PM

No i think i have 800w RMS (at 12v) :)
https://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b...sale/Orion.jpg

lofreqjeff 06-12-2006 02:22 PM

This is what the board of a REAL amp looks like:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...nt-3300X-3.jpg

This is one of my Xtant 3300x's
Its a 3/5 Channel; aprox 750 watts RMS when I run it 5 channel at 2 ohms and 1150 watts RMS when I run it at 1/2 ohm

ldivinag 06-12-2006 03:41 PM


Originally Posted by Greg_Canada
No i think i have 800w RMS (at 12v) :)


CHEATER AMP... CHEATER AMP... CHEATER AMP.... [sound the sirens...]


lol...

that and a phoenix gold... and RF... and PPI... ahhhh... the older days of car stereo...

bring the load down to 1/2 ohm. i remember seeing a van using a 2x50 amp, but it had close to 10-14 speakers... lol.... the passive crossover network took like a whole door to mount.

freshman 06-12-2006 04:51 PM

im selling mine now over ebay. 3 days to go.

phoenix gold ms 275. a real amp!

sorry for the hi jack....

ldivinag 06-12-2006 06:19 PM


Originally Posted by freshman
im selling mine now over ebay. 3 days to go.

phoenix gold ms 275. a real amp!

sorry for the hi jack....


there's 2 MS275 on fleabay... which one is yours?

when i finally got a "paying" job, one of the first things was that or soundstream reference series amps...

a local shop was selling refurbed SS REF series amps for a killer price... those suckers lasted me like 6 years... sigh...

they dont make amps like they used to...

Bumpin' Yota 06-12-2006 08:06 PM

no boys, THESE are REAL amps! ;)


http://www.fotothing.com/photos/298/...066257eb60.jpg

each one is rated at 2200w rms x 1 @ 2ohm mono.

Real world output? 1890 watts at 45hz each with battery voltage sagging to below 10v. (Yes with all 4 going at the same time!) :eeek: I have never tested any amps that were more powerful, though the 20.1 incriminator audio comes close... Keep in mind that 1 of the above amps puts out more power on a limited current supply than a pair of rockford BD1500s or a pair of MTX 1501d's... ;)

btw keep in mind most good amps fail to do 70% of rated output with plenty of current and voltage behind them...

Greg_Canada 06-13-2006 10:00 AM


Originally Posted by ldivinag
CHEATER AMP... CHEATER AMP... CHEATER AMP.... [sound the sirens...]


lol...

that and a phoenix gold... and RF... and PPI... ahhhh... the older days of car stereo...

bring the load down to 1/2 ohm. i remember seeing a van using a 2x50 amp, but it had close to 10-14 speakers... lol.... the passive crossover network took like a whole door to mount.

hehe i've got a 225 too... and a little PPI that i'm trying to set straight, it's staying on when the radio turns off, but only when it's connected to teh remote turn on that shouldn't be getting any power.. hrm?


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