Adding a sub. . .what do I need?
 

Let me start out by saying that I am a total novice in terms of adding an amp and a sub so I'm trying to spell out everything that I can think of. I have experience with adding new head units and speakers, but never have added a sub. I'm looking into adding this sub package to my truck. I'm not really sure what to do, though. What I was hoping to do was create some sort of custom enclosure (trying to build one that could be put in the driver's side cargo area panel) for the sub. I don't need anything spectacular, I just wanted to add some bass. My head unit, the Kenwood DPX-MP4070, has outputs for an amp. So what I think that I would need is to run the outs to the amp (included in the package above), then run a power line between the positive battery terminal and the amp. Next, I think that I run a line from the amp ground terminal to a bolt on the truck body. Then I would assume that I would just need to connect the + and - on the amp and sub. After that, it's just a matter of installing the sub box (which is no easy task, I'm sure for the custom one that I'm looking to do). Do I have the right idea or am I missing anything significant? I would appreciate all of your input on this. Like I said, I've replaced lots of speakers and head units, but have never tried tackling an amp/sub install.

What model/year is your "truck" ? ;)


add a fuse to the power wire at the battery.
upgrade the negative cables of your battery.

Find a place for the amp, that has good air circulation
Make your your woofer has some kind of protection from cargo flopping around back there. (grill)

If you dont already have an alarm system start thinking about getting one. "Bumping tunes" attracts thieves. (and "Having Insurance" doenst keep your windows from getting broken.)

Your box has to be the right size for the sub in question... Take off your panels and snoop around back there before you get too excited, and you start ordering parts too soon.

check this out
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f96/12-no-cargo-space-taken-up-39493/
I put in some pics towards the end that show whats behind the panels. (assuming you have a 3rd gen 4runner) Trust me they look bigger in the pictures. Take yours off for yourself to check it out.


FWIW
I have a 12". (already had it from other install)
If I had to do it all over again I would use a 10" instead. Better use of available space.

You also need a remote line which will ussually be a blue wire from your deck to the amp.

Sorry, I'm vain enough to think that my 45 or whatever posts make people know that I have a 2002 SE. Anyway, I had actually seen exactly those pictures that you posted in that thread (in fact, they were the impetus of my idea to make a custom enclosure on the driver's side). I actually was looking at getting a 10", but the 12" package isn't back ordered and the 10" is. In my time frame (not in the next few months) the 10" will probably be more likely, though. Coyota $x$, do you have any input (I'm sure you have plenty given your experience) as to making a custom enclosure on that side? I know that space is tight, but it seems like there is about the same amount of room on that side as on the side that you put yours. I was hoping to create a custom box behind the panel and only have a circular cutout for the sub itself. So it would look almost factory in that the only cutout of the existing panel would be for the sub itself. Is this possible at all? Or are the depth requirements too prohibitive for this idea to work? As always, any and all input is greatly appreciated.

Speaker depth is obviously a big deal. Thats the main reason mine sticks out 1.75 inches from the body panel. You will be a slave to it.

Use sealing foam in all the small spaces you can only stick a straw in, and fiberglass to line and seal the inside body panel. Its a lotta work, lotta messy work. If you want it right, You wont do it in one day. You dont want any part of the box or speaker mounting baffle to "flex". The Metal that is there will need reinforcemtnt.

You want it ROCK SOLID and sealed tight. No leaks.


The best advice I can give you, take your truck apart now, and start checking out what space you have to work with. Spend time staring at it and visualizing

Then measure, re measure, and measure again... and as you construct keep test fitting. Take your time. Visualize the results and think about all the things that might screw you up before and during the build.

Line the body panel with a sound deadener first.... BEFORE you fibreglass.


Your forgetting something big on the Driver side. The gas filler neck is going to take up a lot of valuable, critical space. If youre going to do a 12, do it on the passenger side.

Robb,

Thanks for all of the valuable input. I have a really stupid question:

If you can make a sealed box out of MDF for one that you're just going to stuff in your trunk, why can't you create a sealed MDF box that fits into the space behind the plastic panel and then put sound deadener around it to insulate the vibrations? Like I said, I know that I'm probably totally off my rocker, but that was my initial (totally uninformed) idea.

Thanks,

Brady

Not a stupid question at all.

The mdf will consume valuable airspace.

Also, youd have to cut about 15-25 pieces and assemble it like a jig saw puzzle, and unless you 'glass it together it will be difficult to have it all pieced together tight and solid.

If your going to 'glass anyway, you might as well glass against the existing metal body.

The whole point of glassing is that its strong, light, and molds to the existing shape, maximizing internal volume. Theres much less space back there than you proably think.

I think that I'm just adverse to glassing because I have never done anything like that. I guess you have to start somewhere with everything, though. I really appreciate your valuable insight. It's a somewhat future mod for me (Christmas time or so), but I wanted to get a bit of a head start on the planning stage. Right now, I guess I should focus on installing my component speakers in the front and rear (if Cardomain ever ships them).

Regards,

Brady

There's step by step procedures to fibreglassing for car audio on the 'net. Look up Fibreglass kick panels. Alot of the procedure will apply. Fibreglassing also lets you do unique, smooth shapes too. Door panels, kickpanels, covers, racks.... its a good thing to have experience with, and expand your horizons.

"Google" while you wait for Santa, and youll see that its easier than it sounds. Helps to experiment a little on something simple before you tackle the final project.

Hang tight and read up on it, as well as subwoofers/amps in general before you rush right out and buy something now for a project you wont do for 3 months. Sucks when you change your mind when learn, discover more.... but already have the stuff laying around.


Good luck.

That's a nice little entry-level package for the price. I might have to think about that for my gf's car.

good info from all, i'd just like to clarify a few things: not only do you need to add a fuse at the battery, it needs to be within 18" of the battery & since you mentioned a 12" sub, you'll need to use at the minimum 4 awg wire (that i picked up @ the local walmart in a "kit" for about $25) for a power line to the amp that should go through a 1 farad capacitor first. i don't know about upgrading the ground wire at the battery (i'm using stock), but i would strongly urge upgrading to a 100 amp alternator (something that i need to do) & perhaps a second battery (!?!) to avoid dimming of your lights when the bass hits & possible battery kill. i myself am currently using a 12" sub in a mdf enclosure that i remove in the evening (to avoid broken windows from the haters who are to lazy to work for their own ) & have replaced the stock speakers with 5.25" polk's for excellent clarity of sound in my mid & high ranges. also, i've utilized the cargo storage area for the placement of the amp, capacitor & in-line convertor (needed to run off of the stock wiring harness...something that you may also need)...outta sight, outta mind. hope this helps.

Do you happen to have any pics of your install? I'm still in a holding pattern on this project. I just finished installing my Blaupunkt components in the front and rear. I've been vacillating on what sub I want. I was looking at that 12" Blau only because that package was in stock. I've actually been considering a 8" (not sure what brand) and sufficient sub. I really want to try to utilize some of the dead space behind the panel in the driver's side cargo area. I know that I would have to custom fab an enclosure, but I'm hoping to have it so that the sub would be the only thing showing out of the panel. I have no idea if I'll be able to make this feasible, but I'm continuing to plan and figure it out. Thanks for all of the valuable inputs.

Up until here I was in complete agreement with you...

No. A cap doesnt provide the power to your electrical system. Your alternator does. If you have dimming problems now, a cap will not help. That is likely THE single biggest fallacy in car audio. The correct fix if you have dimming problems is to upgrade the big 3 with 1/0ga and install a high output alternator.


Upgrading your ground wires on the battery are essential for optimum efficiency of the circuit. Remember in order for an amp to produce power it must be part of a circuit. The power wire must of course supply 12+ volts, and the ground at the amp grounds (hopefully) to your frame rails. Now your frame rails are part of the circuit and the battery grounds to them. (It also ground to the engine and body.) So if you are pulling a lot of current, as he will, the ground wires at the battery NEED to be upgraded.

ALSO, if you do ground to a seat belt bolt or to any portion of the body, be sure to sand away all paint btwn the ground and the body. If you do it the right way and ground to a frame rail, use a grommet for where the wire passes through the body...

Other than those few points, great post! ;)