WooferV2

I just bought a '95 SR5 4runner, but it didn't come with any owner's manuals or anything like that, so I'm kind of discovering things about the truck as I go.

The previous owner had cut 6x9 holes in the rear side panels, and wired in an amp, but removed the speakers before the sale. I bought a pair of 6x9s to fill the holes, and now I'm planning to add a sub. Near the rear window, on the pillars, are vented areas that look suspiciously like they might be a good place for a couple tweeters, but before I go poking around in the panels I'm wondering if anyone knows the story behind those pillar panels.

I've also got a scheme to deaden the area behind the 6x9s in the side-wall panels, since it seems like an awful amoung of energy must be wasted in those open side-walls . . .

Astralplane

Yes they are for tweeters.
That whole top piece just snaps/pulls off. I just had mine off yesterday, trying to see about routing a sirius antenna up thru the third brake light.
The factory location for the tweeters is very good in my opinion and should be used if possible. They are mounted by two brackets. I blelieve only the upgraded sound system had the 6 total speakers from the factory.

Bumpin' Yota

eeeeeh

I'd not use them if I were you. They (and rearfill) destroy imaging and staging. Sond coming from behind you isnt realistic.

Astralplane

Tweeters are directional and need to be pointed at you and not below the rear seats going across the cargo area, and yes the factory separation is excessive but still the best in a factory looking setup in my humble opinion.

WooferV2

Still haven't followed through on the rear column tweeters. But I did spend a little time dampening the area behind my 6x9s in the cargo area.

When I put in the 6x9s the first time, I didn't like all the open space in the panel wall surrounding the place where the speakers go. I bought some AC insulation-type foam rubber (all I could find at Home Depot) and some 3M double-sided tape, and went to work trying to deaden the sidewall area.

The foam came in long square lengths, so I cut it in half diagonally with scissors, ending up with triangular strips. I pulled out the 6x9s and attached the foam strips to the inside of the sidewall, trying to fill the space around the speaker area as much as possible, without actually making contact with the speakers themselves.

After I finished both sides, I put the speakers back in and tested it out. Lo and behold, the low mids are tighter and the speakers are even putting out a little more bottom; not much, but enough to make me feel like the project was worth the 45 minutes or so that it took. Total project cost was about $8.

More thoughts on the pillars: The front in-dash speakers and the rear 6x9s are powered by a 300W Pyle amp. The in-dash head unit says "50Wx4" on the face, making me wonder if I could use the head unit to drive tweeters in the rear pillars, if and when I find some that will fit. And if its really 50x4, then theoretically I could put 2 more little speakers somewhere without having to buy another amp . . .

Texas91Runner

reviving, and hoping not to highjack this thread: could i get any tips or advice on how to mount 6x9s in the back? i'm going all out on my system with new head unit, 6.5"s in front (edit: front doors), and 6x9's in back

OSIRIS

First I would not put in 6X9s in the back if you haven't already done so.

For the OP, you needed to to fix the error of the previous owner. The rear cover above the back window just pops off pretty easily to gain access to the rear tweeters for the stock stereo.

Here is a pic of my changes with my Polk Audio DB6500 component speakers. I removed the stock tweeters by removing the brackets and then unscrewing the stock tweeters from the back. I used the brackets to attached my tweeters to them and reinstalled the brackets.



These are pictures of the stock tweeters in the rear locations. Notice the white tabs that hold the panel up there. Grab with your fingers and pull off at an angle down and toward the front.

RobD

After pulling out the original boxed 5" amplified speakers, or whatever size those crappy K-Mart factory speakers were, I made a template out of cardboard and cut some MDF to fit. I then installed 6 1/2" Infinity coaxials back there. Huge difference.

I'm sure you could do the same for your 6x9s.

Texas91Runner

how much does the fiberboard go for? how would you rate 6x9's compared to 6.5"s?

OSIRIS

Back there in the rear cargo area? the 6x9's are more expensive compared to good 6.5" component speakers and sound worse because of the directional position of the tweeters. Just my input.

RobD

MDF is pretty cheap. You can probably find a smaller cut piece at your local lumberyard or Home Depot. I'm a fan of 6.5" speakers...never been a fan of 6x9s, but that's just my preference based on nothing scientific.

Texas91Runner

you're right about the price difference, osiris. the 6x9's i picked out cost about $30 more than the 6.5"s i picked out for the front doors. what do you mean the positioning of the tweeters?

i'll go check out prices. i'm looking to put in 6x9s for the small advantage that they may be putting out more bass, since i'm not using a sub.

i've been reading around and now i'm confused as to whether put in 6.5s or 6x9s in the back..

OSIRIS

The speaker set up in the rear cargo area are component speakers. This means that the woofer/mid-bass and the tweeter are two separate drivers. And you mount them in two different locations, but close to each other. Typically, the woofer would be low like on the door or side panel somewhere and the tweeter would be above it somewhere.

In the 4Runner, the rear side panels have square grated openings in front of the storage compartments and over the rear wheels. This is the woofer/mid-bass speaker and the tweeter is in the upper pillar.

If you have a two way coaxil 6X9 in the side spots in the rear, then all the tweeter sound will be going straight across in the rear cargo area and it could just make it not sound very good. The rear tweeters are facing the front and gives some good high frequency notes to surround yourself in. It's not exactly the way it's meant to be heard, but it does it's job.

After installing my set up, I would change a couple things. I would look for a set of 4" components and put the mid/bass in the stock location and the tweeter at the base of the A pillar and dash to help with the strange separation accoustics of our trucks.

I am not an installer or a stereo store owner or worker. This is just my opinion and everyone's listening style and musical ears are different.

Depending on what you get, 6X9s may not be that much different bass wise in the backs of the 4Runners than the 6.5"s.

Texas91Runner

i understand what you're saying. i was considering mounting some tweeters up front facing rearwards as well. for the rear, i just wanted supplemental lows/mids to be produced. as for the direction of the rear speakers, i planned on finding a way to create a small angle which would face the a bit more towards the front. i'll see what i can work out.

Atlrunner

Question on the tweeters...just opened the rear pod above the door and no tweeters or brackets but threaded holes. I do have two unused connectors on the right side. Anyone know if these are the right connections to tap into? Thank you for any help or advise.

Derek_SR5

Revived from dead, but I have a question on the size of the factory speakers in the pillars. I have a pair of full range (with inline bass blockers) 2.75" 6ohm drivers that I was thinking about mounting here for rear fill. They will be run off the rear channel on my factory amp 18w RMS, and when going through the 6ohm load effectively seeing 12w per channel. What size are those factory tweeters?

In the front door I am going to run Polk db6750 6.75" components with 1" tweets. The tweets will be mounted on the angled portion of the kick panel, flush mount if there is room and surface mounted if not. The mids will be mounted on a 1" spacer to leave room for window operation.

I am going to run an Infinity Kappa Perfect 12.1 in a sealed fiberglass enclosure behind the pass side rear wheel hump, using the storage compartment to hold part of the enclosure to provide additional clearance.

I am still debating between the Alpine MRP-F300 and the Polk Audio PA500.4 amp to power the setup. I am really leaning toward the Alpine, b/c 50w RMS to the speakers and 150w bridged to the sub should be more than adequate for my listening habits. The Polk is 90w RMS to the speakers and 250w bridged to the sub. I think this is overkill for me, costs more and is physically twice the size.

Haywood Yablome

Just wondering if you have pictures of this bro. Would like to see your set up. Thinking about going this route. Either custom flush mount a pair of 6 1/2's or 6x9's in the rear as well. Mahalo.