The rigs gettin a face lift
#221
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Originally Posted by Trevintor
Hey Crash, how much did your 60 axles and brakes cost? Danatrack right?
I am looking at swapping in a 60 rear, 44 front and want to keep my 6 bolt rim/tire combo. Any other 6 bolt options you know of?
I am looking at swapping in a 60 rear, 44 front and want to keep my 6 bolt rim/tire combo. Any other 6 bolt options you know of?
My rear is a danatrack pro-rock. The rear was easy because its a semi-float, just had the axles made with the right lug pattern... I assume you are wanting to go full float(really overkill IMO unless you plan on compeeting)..
The only way I know of as of now, is of course danatracks 6 bolt hub assembly...
#222
I just found these full float hubs.... look sweet. Kinda pricey though... Still gonna think more about it....
http://www.gradysoffroad.com/welcome.html
http://www.gradysoffroad.com/welcome.html
#223
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update update
Finally got off my behind and got the last few pics off the camera...
I contiplated on how to do the front limiting straps, and was origionally was going to do a double strap in a "V" shape (center of the V being at the diff) but decided to go with a single. So I just took some 1x1 and build a crossmember under the motor
it worked perfectly..
One problem I was having, even with the tender coils on the rear, the bucket on the coilover was either shifting over or the spring was shifting on the bucket. I have a # of guys up here use duct tape to hold them, NO FLIPPIN way was I going to use duct tape on something that was as expensive. So, what I did, was drill 2 holes on the bucket, and use zip ties to hold the spring to the bucket. Then I took a polly bushing (off a ford spring) and cut it, and slid it down against the bucket and used a zip tie to keep pressure on it.
This worked awsome, and havent had a single problem in the last 5 runs....
I contiplated on how to do the front limiting straps, and was origionally was going to do a double strap in a "V" shape (center of the V being at the diff) but decided to go with a single. So I just took some 1x1 and build a crossmember under the motor
it worked perfectly..
One problem I was having, even with the tender coils on the rear, the bucket on the coilover was either shifting over or the spring was shifting on the bucket. I have a # of guys up here use duct tape to hold them, NO FLIPPIN way was I going to use duct tape on something that was as expensive. So, what I did, was drill 2 holes on the bucket, and use zip ties to hold the spring to the bucket. Then I took a polly bushing (off a ford spring) and cut it, and slid it down against the bucket and used a zip tie to keep pressure on it.
This worked awsome, and havent had a single problem in the last 5 runs....
#224
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So, now that the spring rates are figured out, only real thing left to tweek was the sway bar (still to much body roll). I also had an issue with the threaded hiem on the arm was hitting the tube on the rear, so I put the arms in the press and tweeked them a bit. So, to make the sway bar stiffer, all ya gotta do is shorten the arm (redrill the hiem location)..
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