widening a 79-85 toyota SFA without wheel spacers
01-23-2014, 04:21 AM
#66
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The stock IFS rotors dont line line up with the new caliper position. You can use either FJ40 rotors or Tacoma Rotors.
Heres my setup with IFS hubs and Calipers, 97 Tacoma rotors with that slip on after the hub is ground down a bit. Drilled out the break holes to a half inch. Bought some washers and with just a tad bit of grinding they aligned everything up perfectly.
You can either use your entire solid front axle lock out hubs, our you need to get the special conversion gear to make IFS hubs work on a Solid Axle. You have to grind down the gear a bit to make it work in the IFS hubs. I think you can still get the conversion gears through daves off road.
Heres my setup with IFS hubs and Calipers, 97 Tacoma rotors with that slip on after the hub is ground down a bit. Drilled out the break holes to a half inch. Bought some washers and with just a tad bit of grinding they aligned everything up perfectly.
You can either use your entire solid front axle lock out hubs, our you need to get the special conversion gear to make IFS hubs work on a Solid Axle. You have to grind down the gear a bit to make it work in the IFS hubs. I think you can still get the conversion gears through daves off road.
Last edited by rattlewagon; 01-23-2014 at 04:24 AM.
02-01-2014, 04:53 PM
#67
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What studs did you use in your hub for your wheel lugs?
The stock IFS rotors dont line line up with the new caliper position. You can use either FJ40 rotors or Tacoma Rotors.
Heres my setup with IFS hubs and Calipers, 97 Tacoma rotors with that slip on after the hub is ground down a bit. Drilled out the break holes to a half inch. Bought some washers and with just a tad bit of grinding they aligned everything up perfectly.
You can either use your entire solid front axle lock out hubs, our you need to get the special conversion gear to make IFS hubs work on a Solid Axle. You have to grind down the gear a bit to make it work in the IFS hubs. I think you can still get the conversion gears through daves off road.
Heres my setup with IFS hubs and Calipers, 97 Tacoma rotors with that slip on after the hub is ground down a bit. Drilled out the break holes to a half inch. Bought some washers and with just a tad bit of grinding they aligned everything up perfectly.
You can either use your entire solid front axle lock out hubs, our you need to get the special conversion gear to make IFS hubs work on a Solid Axle. You have to grind down the gear a bit to make it work in the IFS hubs. I think you can still get the conversion gears through daves off road.
02-01-2014, 05:03 PM
#68
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Had a heck of a time finding longer wheel studs. Didnt want to drop the $$ for ARPs and they dont "just make longer studs". So this is what I found:
Dorman Part #98458 is the stock front stud is a .559" Knurl and a .3149 shoulder depth. Length of 40 mm.
Part # 610-312 is a stock rear stud, with a knurl diameter of .5578" and shoulder depth of .4921. 44.5mm long
But after digging through the Dorman parts book, I found one!
Part # 610-463. Rear stud off of a Awd Toyota Matrix. Same .559 knurl but a shoulder depth just over an inch, it makes the whole stud 55mm.
Stock on the left, stock rear in the middle, and martix on the right.
Same with the Taco rotor on.
And in the rim
I can get about 6 turns onto a stock one, and about 8-9 on to the stock rear. this bolt is .75" long and I have thread for days.
Probably could have gotten away with using the rear studs, but I wanted to be sure.
With that out of the way I put the front axle together.
Still need to work the break shims to get the rotor to line up with the caliper. but still..
Run down of the axle: 85 Axle with all the TG armor. Marlin axle rebuild with Koyo wheel bearings and Youkon trunion bearings. Ifs hubs ground down with martix wheel studs running 97 Tacoma rotors. Stock 92 v6 break caliper moved to the other side of the knuckle ears and drilled out for 1/2" bolt. 5th stud. 4.10 diff with lunchbox locker and 30 spline longs with TG creeper flanges.
Dorman Part #98458 is the stock front stud is a .559" Knurl and a .3149 shoulder depth. Length of 40 mm.
Part # 610-312 is a stock rear stud, with a knurl diameter of .5578" and shoulder depth of .4921. 44.5mm long
But after digging through the Dorman parts book, I found one!
Part # 610-463. Rear stud off of a Awd Toyota Matrix. Same .559 knurl but a shoulder depth just over an inch, it makes the whole stud 55mm.
Stock on the left, stock rear in the middle, and martix on the right.
Same with the Taco rotor on.
And in the rim
I can get about 6 turns onto a stock one, and about 8-9 on to the stock rear. this bolt is .75" long and I have thread for days.
Probably could have gotten away with using the rear studs, but I wanted to be sure.
With that out of the way I put the front axle together.
Still need to work the break shims to get the rotor to line up with the caliper. but still..
Run down of the axle: 85 Axle with all the TG armor. Marlin axle rebuild with Koyo wheel bearings and Youkon trunion bearings. Ifs hubs ground down with martix wheel studs running 97 Tacoma rotors. Stock 92 v6 break caliper moved to the other side of the knuckle ears and drilled out for 1/2" bolt. 5th stud. 4.10 diff with lunchbox locker and 30 spline longs with TG creeper flanges.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...3/index17.html
04-18-2014, 04:14 AM
#71
Registered User
Wrote this post up elsewhere and through it fit well here too.
They are Ifs hubs ground down to fit into a 97 Tacoma rotor. You have to take about 1/4 if material off. It requires moving the break caliper to the outside of the ears on the axle and spacing it out with a small washer, and I drilled out the holes to to put a 1/2 in bolt in there. Im running the backing plate eliminators, otherwise you would have to trim that too. Also had to widen the opening of the caliper a bit to fit over the taco rotor.
Some pics here and here
Now you have a matching IFS width without wheel spacers. You could technically still run spacers, but thats putting a lot of stress on the trunnions and would not recommended it.
Early ifs hubs are "flowered" and is easier to grind down, later (like mine) were solid all the way around. I ground both of them with a flap wheel in about 1/2 hour.
Below is a later ifs hub with the outer edge cut down (not my pic) Stock on the left, cut down on the right.
IFS hub on the left, solid on the right. You can see how the overall length is the same, the IFS hub WMS just rides a little farther out on the spindle. Again, not my pic.
Its a pretty simple swap.
They are Ifs hubs ground down to fit into a 97 Tacoma rotor. You have to take about 1/4 if material off. It requires moving the break caliper to the outside of the ears on the axle and spacing it out with a small washer, and I drilled out the holes to to put a 1/2 in bolt in there. Im running the backing plate eliminators, otherwise you would have to trim that too. Also had to widen the opening of the caliper a bit to fit over the taco rotor.
Some pics here and here
Now you have a matching IFS width without wheel spacers. You could technically still run spacers, but thats putting a lot of stress on the trunnions and would not recommended it.
Early ifs hubs are "flowered" and is easier to grind down, later (like mine) were solid all the way around. I ground both of them with a flap wheel in about 1/2 hour.
Below is a later ifs hub with the outer edge cut down (not my pic) Stock on the left, cut down on the right.
IFS hub on the left, solid on the right. You can see how the overall length is the same, the IFS hub WMS just rides a little farther out on the spindle. Again, not my pic.
Its a pretty simple swap.
04-18-2014, 09:48 PM
#73
Registered User
Matching IFS width front axle without wheel spacers (the title of the thread) and quick removal of birfields/shafts is the need. Running this set up, I can have the birfield out in 20 min taking the hub off as a unit bearing doing a modified camo method. Right now to change a shaft is remove the caliper, and the rotor will slide off. Pop the dust cap on the drive flange and pull the snap ring, then pull the 8 spindle bolts and the whole thing comes off like a unit bearing. Leaving the knuckle/conewashers/trunnions/shims alone.
Camo method :
Camo method :
Last edited by rattlewagon; 04-21-2014 at 06:16 PM.
04-19-2014, 09:22 AM
#75
Matching IFS width front axle without wheel spacers and quick removal of birfields/shafts is the need. Running this set up, I can have the birfield out in 20 min taking the hub off as a unit bearing doing a modified camo method. Right now to change a shaft is remove the caliper, and the rotor will slide off. Pop the dust cap on the drive flange and pull the snap ring, then pull the 8 spindle bolts and the whole thing comes off like a unit bearing. Leaving the knuckle/conewashers/trunnions/shims alone. Camo method : Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o3Y5bQGiezY
08-18-2014, 08:27 PM
#76
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alright I've been reading through different threads on this subject and understand dimensions and placement of everything quite well. I am going to be getting the TG IFS eliminator kit and it comes with the LC rotors, i have lots of ifs parts and don't have a problem doing this over wheel spacers. My question is will there be any noticeable difference in braking with an upgraded calliper either way? I will be using the six shooter knuckles and don't like the idea of drilling them.
Basically will i notice the difference if i switch to the tacoma rotors and callipers VS the lc rotors and v6 calliper using the wheel spacers. seems to be the one comparison missing or I'm blind
Basically will i notice the difference if i switch to the tacoma rotors and callipers VS the lc rotors and v6 calliper using the wheel spacers. seems to be the one comparison missing or I'm blind
08-18-2014, 08:42 PM
#77
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alright I've been reading through different threads on this subject and understand dimensions and placement of everything quite well. I am going to be getting the TG IFS eliminator kit and it comes with the LC rotors, i have lots of ifs parts and don't have a problem doing this over wheel spacers. My question is will there be any noticeable difference in braking with an upgraded calliper either way? I will be using the six shooter knuckles and don't like the idea of drilling them.
Basically will i notice the difference if i switch to the tacoma rotors and callipers VS the lc rotors and v6 calliper using the wheel spacers. seems to be the one comparison missing or I'm blind
Basically will i notice the difference if i switch to the tacoma rotors and callipers VS the lc rotors and v6 calliper using the wheel spacers. seems to be the one comparison missing or I'm blind
Off the top of my head i cant remember the difference in size of pistons, taco vs V6
08-30-2014, 08:33 AM
#80
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So I'm working on doing this now. Using 97 tacoma rotors and I'm slightly confused on part of this. So using tacoma rotors are they supposed to slide over the front of the hubs or do they need to be drilled and bolted to the backside of the hubs? I really don't want to do this twice if I do it wrong the first time.
