Options on Transfercase Crossmembers
 

I'm ready to get an adapter for my second case to go in this winter.

I'm looking a clocked set up.

Here's my issue. The rotation brings front output up level with the bottom of the cases. This gives me another inch and change. HOWEVER, the only crossmembers that are out there seem to use the bogus stock mounts, which puts me back at the current level.

I've seen 4xinovations stuff, but that doesn't work, as I don't have a SAS.

I'm also not wild about FROR, as that takes all the force from the beefy mounts to the relatively thin rear plate.

Unless I'm missing something, it looks like my only option is building my own.

Anyone got another idea?

Have you talked to Bud?

http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/armor.htm

Thats one of the ones I was talking about that uses a stock mount.

I'm okay with that, but it defeats the purpose of the clocked case.

I'm looking for high clearance options. There might not be any, but i just wanted to see if I missed anything.

I guess what I'm wondering is if you get a 1" drivetrain lift crossmember with clocked cases...

No, becasue you use the stock mounts. The clocking only affects the height of the front output, which in stock position, sits almost dead even with the bottom of the stock xcase mount. If you clock, it brings the front output up even with the bottom of the transfercase, essentially even with the top of the stock xcase mount.

So, using a stock mount defeats the purpose of the clocking.

At this point, its looking like a ton of trouble and work just to get an extra inch. I'm not really sure it's worth it.

what about budbuilt? you couldn't get one to work?

WHATEVER you do,I recommend going with the bolt on style. The ALL PRO crossmember needs to have the Mounts welded in. While their site doesn't tell you this,oh you do. I belive the FROR is very similer although I belive the mounts lie perallel instead of vertical. I'd recommend the Bud built. Second to that I'd say Trail gear. I hope you don't have the nightmare I had. BOlt on is the way to go!

Have never had any problems with the Front Range cross member, have had mine for about 7 years now. Will be installing a clocked rear case at some point in the future and will go with the clocked Front Range cross member.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...aseCrossmember

I think it gives the best ground clearance since there are no mounts below the case and it really stiffens up the drivetrain, no more shift levers flopping around when in 4-Lo-Lo. You could also bolt on the angle brackets onto the frame, using through bolts and sleeves.

Or get the center section from Front Range and fab up your own bracket from that. Several threads on the Pirate4x4.com forum on this. Folks use tubing to make the side supports and add round spring eye type bushings at the frame.

heres my flatbelly crossmember i made. To make the mounts i welded 3/16 tabs to a flat 4x4 1/8 peice of plate. the crossmember is all out of 3/16 square tube and flat plate
https://i21.tinypic.com/30w5z4w.jpg
https://i22.tinypic.com/257o9xc.jpg
https://i20.tinypic.com/a2sx92.jpg
https://i23.tinypic.com/2f04y77.jpg
all bolted up and if you notice i cut and replased the crossmember behind my skid plate. the drive shaft will not interfer with it and it makes it so i didnt have to make a big hoop so the dshaft could fit.
https://i21.tinypic.com/2echnp1.jpg

it protects real nice and can easily hold the weight of my truck (mine is a bit overkill but i like it). This is a complete flatbelly for dual cases(clocked mc10r10) I dont think i could have purchased any one out there. This actualy puts my transmission up 1/8 inch atleast from the frame. alot of floorboard cutting was in order. if you want more pics let me know i also have pics of the crossbracing for the frame support i made behind the crossmember.

Okay, again, the bud built and Trail Gear use the stock mounts. Again, that defeats the purpose of the clocked case.

I'm looking for other options.

Something like what fillsrunner did is what it looks like i'm gonna have to do, if i decide to clock.

As is, I'm leading towards the Budbuilt Budlight, and no clock. Just that much less to mess with, but we'll see if any other options come up.

So, you've not had harsh vibration on the highway? While thats not as big a concern, It is somewhat.

No leakage on the rear case around where the xmember bolts up?

Hmmm, may have to look at it a bit more.

No vibration at all, I do run stock (rubber) motor mounts up front and the rubber bushings on the t-case crossmember. No leakage at the bolts either, never had them loosen up or pull out either.

4crawler ive seen those crossmembers have a weak spot on one side. i do love the design but do you know anything about that? my buddy really wants to add that to his to stiffen up his crossmember. his is kinda like mine but with only one mount instead of two like i have.

Supposedly a problem with the very early ones, has long since been corrected according to Brian at Front Range. I called him about mine and he said it was the improved design.

thats cool. it was along time ago i read about it and im sure theyve improved it since then. Good to know thanks

I run the FROR crossmember with good luck so far.

I got this bushing kit from Summit: #9-4102G
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

I have no vibrations, surprisingly smooth. Like others have said, there is zero movement with drivetrain from torque.

If you clock your T-Case, wouldn't that mean the cross member all has to be clocked... if it is a bolt on style? Guessing you have already thought of that. Just curious for my own benefit.

right, none of the budbuilt or tg ones work with the clocked set up without modification.

I'll go back to thinking about the FROR set up. I like that idea the best, and if folks aren't having problems, then I'm going to look into it.

Thanks!!

How much are you clocking it? I have an R10 and it's not worth it. I didn't gain any noticeable clearance, only a pain in the ASS shifter to get up through the cup holder.

Well, I've come to the same conclusion. A buttload of work and not much gain.

The shifter isn't a big deal as I'll have a three shifter set up, no cutting.

However, The extra inch doesn't really seem worth all the hassle. I'm just going to go normal and go with the budlight.

I have the FROR X-member as well. If your concerned about clearance then you need the FROR model as you can dictate just how high your cases will sit by placing the weld on brackets higher. I tucked mine up there as high as I could and its been great. No vibration either. My friends are running them on a 22re and a 3rz. At an idle the 22re does vibrate a little but his truck seems to miss at low RPM (EB crawler cam). My 3.0 is silky smooth all the way down till it dies at just under 300 rpm. One thing we all noticed was that the transfer of torque to the wheels was much crisper than before with the stock mounts. As others have stated there is zero side to side movement in the drive train.