Longfields vs U-Joints
 

I'm planning to upgrade my front axle. Any thoughts on Longfields vs all-pro's D44 U-joint conversion?

I have heard that the U-joints are a lot stronger than the birfs its just expensive.
I would like to do the swap too, but right now just getting my 85 axle in running order is going to cost a lot of cash.

no greasy mess with the ujoints, newest generation longs are probably stronger unless you got upgraded ujoints to go with the alloy shafts. I'm split in opinion, i like to keep it all toyota (hence the supra swap instead of a V8 or something) but birfields are such a pain. I suppose if you get the longs and set them up right the first time you should only have to rebuild them once every year or two, which isnt so bad. Unless you beat on your truck with big tires and lots of skinny pedal you shouldnt break either.

I just called Longfield about his D44 SuperJoints. He is no longer making the $80 versions. His latest creation is following the same path as the CTM joints, some type of 300M material. However, is stated that he will be charging something like $140 for his U-Joints, as opposed to CTMs $200 or so bucks.

Cool, I will keep up with this thread to see what happens.
Thanks for the info Steve :great:

Another tid bit of info.

I was talking to a local wheeler about these type of joints, the CTM style, with no needle bearings, etc. He stated that these type of joints are really designed for competition. They are designed for people who are going to rebuild them after an event or two.

Since, I'm not too hip on rebuilding stuff after I put it in, I think I would rather have a joint that I can put in and forget about it. I starte seriously thinking about the 760 U-joints. I'm looking at making my rig more of an expedition type rig. Rebuilding u-joints every so often is not too much fun, at least for me, I have way too many other things that need to be done.....

I agree Steve. I really just want a great all around rig that I can take cross country, wheel and make it back without any problems. I really dont want to have to rebuild every trip or 2.

If you search around on pirate, there was a thread i saw a few weeks ago with differnt strengths of birf's and that birf eliminator kit, the u-joints were only a few hundred pounds of breaking force and a few degrees of twist stronger then a stock birf, everyone around here that has run that eliminator kit is now back to some sort of beefed birf, most people are running the standard one bobby long carries.

wade

I love the u-joints (D-60 version), no problems in 5 years and the extra steering angle is sweet. Really nice to not have to worry about breaking anything up front, even et full steering lock, in reverse and double-low range.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/JohnsonV...Rjambo9_23.jpg

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri....shtml#HySteer

if i were going for beef i'd personally go with the 30 spline longfields. so far, they seem quite impressive, i'd definitely take them over those birfield eliminator kits. not to mention they test nearly as strong as a stock 35 spline dana 60 front shaft...

Thanks for all the feedback. I just ordered the 27 spline longs.

not everybody is made of money, and we get what we can afford.

As standard Steve, we all bow the knee......

If you are just talking the bifield eliminator kit, then i would say that even just 27-spline longs are stronger. The main problem with the eliminator kits is that the axle is still closed knuckle, and you only have so much space to work with. The Toy/dana 60 hybred allows much larger u-joints and stub shafts to be used, hence the extra strength.

That said, my 30-spline longfields and inners will be here in a few days.

LOL

I am currently having the same debate. I think I will be going with beefed birfs and alloy inners for now and wait to see how that holds up. Hopefully that will work fine for me. Have to see how heavy the rig ends up being.

I had a long conversation with Bobby Long out at the Toyota Jamboree, where he brought his axle testing machine. His new 27 spline joints are very strong, in fact much stronger than the U-joint conversion kits. A 300m axle broke before the joint failed and his 30 spline one are just as strong as a D60 30 spline. In other words you'll break your ring and pinion before the joint fails.

If someone can host a few vids, I have footage of them taken to the breaking point.

As for CTM's and Cromo axles in a D44, I've had friends break them as well, many have gone to D60's or a D44 center section and D60 outers.

I just tossed a set of the chro-moly inners and 27 spline long's (bought before the 30 spline shiz came out) in my 40. This axle is built with 37-38" tires, 67:1 low, and turbo'ed I-6 in mind.

No-brainer.



Whats really sweet is Bobby's new 80 series stuff. His graph showed them stronger than a 35 spline D60 joint IIRC...
If/when I start breakin the beefy pre-'90 cruiser/minitruck axle stuff a set of 80 series axles will make their way under the 40...

A beefed 44 or a beefed Toy will take 40's with heavy driving.

Why not put the joints in the axle that belong there?

The kits require some clearancing of the yokes IIRC, so they are actually weaker.

Run it, break it, fix it.