If you don't mind the front end higher than the rear I guess it doesn't matter. I would think you would want to do them at the same time. It's really up to you.

I would do the rear either first or at the same time. You will have adjustment in the front, so if you do the rear first you can adjust the front to match the rear. Once you have it all adjusted and you're happy (test drive it a least a block and remeasure) then go get an alignment.

I guess I assumed he was just wanting to install the BJ spacers and not worried about adjusting the T-bars and putting the Coil Spacers on later. In either case, mt goat is right in regards to matching the front height with the rear. And you should get an alignment when you have it set where you want it. Good luck...........

for an 89 4runner....what would be a good compliment for the rear suspension when BJ spacers are installed in the front?? Does anyone have any experience with some good 1.5-2"" lift springs or any other ideas..my friend needs a couple ideas..the springs on his 89 4runner are flat almost. Maybe an soft ride AAL...??

Brian

I used Downey 3" lift replacement springs which netted 2" of lift after settling. My springs were also nearly re-curved back the opposite direction, so I couldn't really see shoring them up with AAL although that is a cheaper alternative that has served meny on this board well. This link to my thread shows the rig with rear leaves but BJ spacers yet to be installed. Keep in mind you can dial in the front height to where you want it. I haven't taken pics of mine completed yet but I have the t bars nearly all the down so the front end is a bit lower than the rear. I will have to wheel it and tweak with it for a while I imagine.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/new-rear-leafs-installed-48400/

Camera angle.
 

Camera angle i hope... better look at that tonight

BLKNBLU I hope your truck isn't always that clean...

mine--when I was running 31 inch mudders-
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...3/f7f4e240.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...4/f7f4e25e.jpg

Not at all. I totally took advantage of the front end teardown to clean, sand, wirebrush, paint, and lubricate everything. Too bad it won't last long.

A cut off wheel is a just a thin grinding wheel. Its purpose is cutting so it is made thin so there is less material to remove. It will also work as a grinding wheel for light finish grinding.

Like someone else said, Man your truck looks clean!! Ditto here on cleaning up sanding and cleaning up the parts. After leaving CA in '96 my 4Runner has rusted significantly so I figured this was a good time to clean up as much of the suspension as I could and repaint it. Really makes things look nice.

BLKNBLU: My question is about alignment after the BJ spacer install. Took the truck to Toyota for an alignment and they got it pretty good except for the caster on the passenger side. They can't get the caster right because the lower control arm bushing is frozen. Apparently this involves burning the bolt out of the bushing/sleeve like the rear lateral control rod frozen bolt removal process. Did you have this problem when you did the control arm bushings? I'm guessing no b/c you are out of the rust belt.

Right. I had no problems getting the LCA off in my case. It is only held on with those cam bolts, but they do go through a metal sleeve in the middle of the bushing. If that bolt is rusted to that sleeve, I can't imagine what a major pain that job is going to be. Also, if that sleeve gets destroyed in the process I'm not sure where you can get a replacement besides Toyota. They aren't provided in the new bushing sets from Energy, Daystar, etc. Sounds like I'm lucky to be in the desert.

That's a nice write-up. Is that new?

No, that's from Schaefer's site.

That is what I used as a guide to do mine. Very helpful.

My goodness BLKNBLU with a front lift your CV axle is straight, mine is lifted like 1'' and it has all sorts of angle, how did you manage that?

my t bars are as relaxed as possible

I guess with 31s you dont need a lot of room huh? I wish mine sat that relaxed maybe I wouldnt be replacing them for the 3rd time...

Her are mine in:
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j3...073-Resize.jpg

My write up is in the 86-95 tech section "Project 4 Rescue"... Basicly the first side takes about 3 times as long as the other side because you figure out what to remove and when. The directions are good, and it is REALLY simple in terms of mechanical knowhow etc. the cutting and grinding takes about the longest of all the steps, but if you shim the A-arm up it's really open to work on. Do your self a favor and just remove the brake line and bleed afterwards, it gives you all the room you could need to manipulate the A-arm/knuckle/hub assembly. Also, pound out the Ball joint studs while you support the knuckle with a floor jack and the assembly is still together, you can then just drop the BJ/knuckle away from the upper a-arm...

I used mine in conjunction with OME rear springs. My ass was sagging REALLY bad...

Here's what it came out looking like with NO t-bar crank:

before:
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j3...603-ReSize.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j3...606-ReSize.jpg
after:
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j3...081-Resize.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j3...090-Resize.jpg

i had mine installed today, took me 6 hours. mainly because one of the balljoints had a stuck stud, even i have PB blast'd the whole thing for a week. i had to knock out the bj to get the stud out, i damaged the cast;r nut. went to 2 dealers and all the hardwere, autoparts stores in the 15 mile radius, come back with NaDa. ended up savage the nut with a file and table vise, it holds good, for now. i'm ordering couple of them and replace the old ones next week. luckily, my daily commute is only 3 miles.

broke a brand new Craftsman rachet on one of the 19mm bolts on the steering elbow. i've never seen that many red loctite before. went to Sears got a brand new one for replacement.

for me, the most difficult part is how to sticking a piece of 2x4 between the upper control arm and the uppper bump stop. cutting and grinding is pretty straight forward.

if any of you are planning doing this, please get all the safety equipment, i.e. eye protection, long sleeve shirt, hat. plus treat the angle grinder as a loaded gun, only plug it in when you are actually grinding, turn the power switch off before you plug it in. that thing is the scariest thing in my tool chest.




man i'm tired.