97 T100 Build
#141
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Calistoga, CA
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Wow, this is ambitious! This'll be a sweet ride when you're done. I recently did Second Skin Audio's Damplifier Pro in the front fenders and wheel wells of my T100, and the difference was dramatic.
How difficult was it to remove all the interior panels? Any tips?
How difficult was it to remove all the interior panels? Any tips?
#142
Registered User
Thread Starter
Tips:
The plastic tabs that go into the alligator clips that hold the headliner and front pillar trim on are probably brittle. Take your time pulling those trim pieces off.
keep a pair of needle-nose pliers handy to extract the alligator clips from the slots in the sheet metal.
Measure out the slots in the sheet metal and order new clips online (the largest that will fit). The smaller ones have a tendency to rattle a bit. I was able to get a box of 100 from a local body shop.
Other than that, it took maybe 15 mins to completely strip the interior.
#144
Registered User
Just discovered this build, very cool, I love the attention to detail!
I don't have a T100 but am doing a 88 4x and I am wrapping up the mechanicals and starting the interior mods
I gotta bunch of questions on different things you have done, you mind if I post in your thread?
I don't have a T100 but am doing a 88 4x and I am wrapping up the mechanicals and starting the interior mods
I gotta bunch of questions on different things you have done, you mind if I post in your thread?
#146
Registered User
Thread Starter
Just discovered this build, very cool, I love the attention to detail!
I don't have a T100 but am doing a 88 4x and I am wrapping up the mechanicals and starting the interior mods
I gotta bunch of questions on different things you have done, you mind if I post in your thread?
I don't have a T100 but am doing a 88 4x and I am wrapping up the mechanicals and starting the interior mods
I gotta bunch of questions on different things you have done, you mind if I post in your thread?
Feel free to ask away, I’d love to answer any questions!
#147
Registered User
Thread Starter
I have! To be honest, I keep going back to this one yard that has a BEAUTIFUL T100 that was scrapped just because of the rear axle. Not much left anymore, but I’m hoping to snatch the frame off of it before it goes to the crusher.
#148
Registered User
Thread Starter
3D printer anyone?
It might be a really SMALL market, but I’m sure there are plenty of people going insane over their sloppy air vents.
These little pieces are inserts that are what provide tension on the vents up and down swivel.
they are almost ALL, on any truck I have taken apart, cracked, broken, missing, or completely worn out.
I managed to get a full set by scalping two full dashboards.
Inserting them, and then dropping epoxy resin in the gap. Hopefully this will do the trick for another couple decades.
These little pieces are inserts that are what provide tension on the vents up and down swivel.
they are almost ALL, on any truck I have taken apart, cracked, broken, missing, or completely worn out.
I managed to get a full set by scalping two full dashboards.
Inserting them, and then dropping epoxy resin in the gap. Hopefully this will do the trick for another couple decades.
The following users liked this post:
BeRT100 (12-05-2018)
#149
Registered User
Thread Starter
Windshield defroster vents
I noticed that on both dashes, the windshield defroster vent assembly is not actually sealed to the dash pad, allowing large amounts of air to be able to escape the vents before even making it to the windshield.
So I’m just using some extra Copper RTV I had laying around to run an ugly (but effective) finger bead of sealant to provide an airtight seal. This should be a major improvement of airflow over stock.
So I’m just using some extra Copper RTV I had laying around to run an ugly (but effective) finger bead of sealant to provide an airtight seal. This should be a major improvement of airflow over stock.
#150
Registered User
Thread Starter
While the vent seals dry:
Last piece of sound deadening went in.
I think it will be an even tie of keeping sound in / keeping sound out / keeping beer cold / keeping women hot / and hushing the screams in crowded parking lots.
I think it will be an even tie of keeping sound in / keeping sound out / keeping beer cold / keeping women hot / and hushing the screams in crowded parking lots.
#151
Thank You for finding the, cure to my infection of the dreaded "SVS" (Sloppy Vents Syndrome).😏 I have tried everything to find a cure, hitting the dash with fists, tape over the vent face (' course that kept the vent from working ) even to turning the stock EOM radio up loud ( That was worse than the vent rattle EOM speakers ya know) . All in all I had pretty much given up and then along comes you post-- Eureka! All I have to do is pull my dash out, fix the offensive little beggars and reinstall my dash---YEP easy pezzy🤪😵😮😁😁🤣
Seriously: good post, I'll get to mine someday because now I know how to fix 'em 👍👍👍
Seriously: good post, I'll get to mine someday because now I know how to fix 'em 👍👍👍
#153
Registered User
Thread Starter
Front steering linkage rebuild.
Fastest way to get it done is to take the whole assembly out in one piece.
This also allows you to get some measurements from center to center on the ends so when you put it back together it’s not TOTALLY way out of alignment.
This should allow you to get down the road safely enough to get an alignment on it when it’s back together.
This also allows you to get some measurements from center to center on the ends so when you put it back together it’s not TOTALLY way out of alignment.
This should allow you to get down the road safely enough to get an alignment on it when it’s back together.
#154
Registered User
Thread Starter
Tie rod end assembly
These MOOG tie rod ends are way better than stock, plus they’re greasable.
I measured out the stock ends.
Driver side = 337mm
Pass side = 320mm
The different between the two ends being 17mm.
My thought process is to split the difference. (Add 8mm to the pass side and take away 8mm from the driver side)
A 8mm shift of the tie bar won’t even matter in the damper or stabilizer travel.
If it throws off the “center” on the steering wheel, I’ll just move the pitman arm a couple teeth to recenter everything at zero.
Then I can make the fine adjustments to the tie rods when I actually do the alignment.
But overall, I’m thinking the tie rods should be in the neighborhood of 328mm on each side from center to center.
I measured out the stock ends.
Driver side = 337mm
Pass side = 320mm
The different between the two ends being 17mm.
My thought process is to split the difference. (Add 8mm to the pass side and take away 8mm from the driver side)
A 8mm shift of the tie bar won’t even matter in the damper or stabilizer travel.
If it throws off the “center” on the steering wheel, I’ll just move the pitman arm a couple teeth to recenter everything at zero.
Then I can make the fine adjustments to the tie rods when I actually do the alignment.
But overall, I’m thinking the tie rods should be in the neighborhood of 328mm on each side from center to center.
#155
Registered User
Thread Starter
Interior fabric
Time to put in some work on the interior while the tie rod is at the powdercoater.
It took me a year to get this fabric. Already the most expensive part on the build, lol.
Fingers crossed that I still know how to run a sewing machine.
If it turns out like I envision it, the interior is going to be “next level”. Lol...
It took me a year to get this fabric. Already the most expensive part on the build, lol.
Fingers crossed that I still know how to run a sewing machine.
If it turns out like I envision it, the interior is going to be “next level”. Lol...
#158
Well, I think that (new Moog stuff) looks real pretty. Now you should see a horse power increase by 10 or 20%
.
Really do like the look of your new headliner material Should be "over the top" (of your head) when your done. OK I'll stop now.
Really do like the look of your new headliner material Should be "over the top" (of your head) when your done. OK I'll stop now.
Seriously: project is fantastic to date.👍