IanB

Well put!

You need to get your tuning figured out now, before you start turning a single wrench on this project. Adding a SC to even a built engine with no tune = blown motor. It's just not an option. You need to find a system that will do what you need it to, and find someone who can work with that system to get your truck safely tuned. I'd hate to see a $6000 engine fried because the most important aspect of the build was overlooked.

Bigger injectors add additional power potential, with tuning they will start, idle, and run fine, without hurting your fuel economy one bit. Have you figured out if your stock fuel pump is capable of pushing the volume this engine will need at wide open throttle? In-line pumps are noisy, I'd recommend a larger in-tank unit if you need to upgrade.

Projects like this are slippery slopes, the cost of the engine build you may be comfortable with, but many components that support the engine will NEED to be upgraded as well, and others you will WANT to upgrade (exhaust for example) to get the full potential out of your setup. Thourough planning before you start buying is a real good idea.

If you have questions, ask.

Greg_Canada

Agree with texas ace 100%. We're just trying to help you bud.
The highest trd blown 3rz dyno i've seen is 190-200whp. thats with every mod possible.
A budget turbo (KO racing kit) on 5psi, with no other mods is about that same power.

Also, he posted a link to the ECU he's running... looks like he's going for SDS... bit of old school technology... will work tho...

Snoqualmie

So the ECU I picked out is kinda oldschool? My buddy told me it would be the easiest to tune. Anyways I could use some help with the whole initial tuning. My buddy is an A and P mechanic but he is fresh out of school and I dont trust all of his skills yet

He has been a huge help on the tear down but when it comes to re-assembly and tune(where its possible to mess up the whole build) Id like to have a bit of my own know how 1st.

Is there a good how to? Like a good fuel injection tuning page? Or can someone give me a few steps and pointers to follow?

Snoqualmie

DUDE! http://www.lceperformance.com/LCE-Pr...-p/1063029.htm already got the ECU replacement I already posted I thought.
Programmable Parameters Include: RPM Limiting, Start Function, Manifold Pressure, Throttle Position Sensor, Acceleration Function, Air Temperature, Ignition Timing, MAP Retard and Boost Limiting!
I am a private helicopter pilot so ive heard the term manifold pressure... I bet thats the one I gotta watch?

Thanks man, good to know about the meth kit. My birthday is this april so I got a good reason to order a nice one.

Whats the best kit without overpaying??

Greg_Canada

Devilsown makes a nice good priced meth kit.
Yes, that standalone should be among the easiest to tune. Not as complicated as todays stuff.
Ask LCE about tuning... you spent lots of money with them, they should help you out, atleast where to get started.

Texas_Ace

Yes, that ECU is very old school. Doesn't even look like it allows you to connect it to a laptop. That is bad for a good tune, very bad. Getting a good tune with one of those hand held boxes is nearly impossible. Trust me, i have messed with the power FC (same priceable, you try to tune it on a little device like the one you have). It was impossible to get it running right.

I would rather something more modern like a vipec or even the new AEM V2 universal box (not to be confused with the V1 boxes, those are junk). There are a ton of other options as well, haltech makes some good stuff as well.

Might also consider a knock detection box like the J&S to help keep everything alive.

Next up, do not let just anyone tune your truck, there is a MASSIVE difference between a mechanic and a tuner. I know a ton of mechanics but only a few tuners. Tuning is completely different and so easy to mess up. Most tuners blow up a few motors, particularly at first. I blew my first motor i tuned and I "knew" what i was doing.

Knowing what to do and actually being able to do it are very different things.

There are a ton of sites out there that can give you the basics on tuning but tuning a stand alone is not something you just jump into. A piggy back such as the URD 7th controller is pretty simple, most guys can figure that out in a few hours and get a tune good enough to make the truck run.

You only have to mess with how much extra fuel you need to keep AFR's in check though, a stand alone has 100's of other settings that have to be just right as well.

Manifold pressure is the form of load you will use combined with RPM to tune the truck but you will have to watch about 100 other settings to get it running right, the AFR's and timing are the most important for not blowing the motor.

I would not even think about tuning it yourself if i was you, take it to a pro tuner and watch him, after you get a feel for it, then you can consider doing it yourself down the road. I watched a ton of tuners at work and learned a TON before i even thought about tuning my first car and even then i indirectly managed to blow the motor due to inexperience (lucky it was an easy fix but still).

Tuning is part of the bill when building a build like yours, you just need to add in the $500-$1000 that tuning will cost to the price of the build.

Best kit is a hard thing to say. Aquamist is at the top of the list for sure. It is also pricey.

Best bang for the buck kit from my experience has to be the coolingmist kit. Cost is middle of the road but the controller is very nice and programmable. Also comes with some failsafe options which is very important.

Devils own is also a nice kit but a bit basic, it is a progressive controller but thats about it, no failsafes or options. It works fine, just lacking on features.

Stay away from the AEM meth kit BTW.

Snoqualmie

Well I guess Im going to have to call around. I already had the magnets machined into my harmonic ballancer so I am going to stick with this oldschool ECU and hope for the best. I live near seattle if anyone knows of a good tuning shop I should try.

So am I going to have to tow it to the shop for the 1st start than have them tune it?

Texas_Ace

Magnets? some kind of timing sensor?

You are going to have a heck of a time finding a tuner that will even touch that system, and he will charge you a lot more then a normal system to tune it as well.

With a normal stand alone you can get a base map that is usually good enough to drive it (at least a short distance) to the tuner via e-mail then he finishes it up there.

I would REALLY look into another stand alone, the tune is the most important part of any build and the tune is only as good as the system that is using it and vice versa. The AEM box is a lot cheaper as well, only $750 IIRC.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

call carb connection in kirkland. Thats who i will be taking mine to.

Snoqualmie

drift office in auburn said they would tune this system no prob but it isnt ideal. Ill consider returning the ECU but its going to cost me another 200 for a new pulley if I do.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

I recall getting a factory pulley for 5vz for cheaper. Shop around.

Texas_Ace

Why would you need a new one in the first place? Whatever the sensor was you installed i bet could be used with a new ECU. Got a picture?

If you do need a new one i bet you can find a used one for a few bucks. They are hard to find but not that pricey.

Snoqualmie

I sent it in to be machined so I dont have any pictures yet. Ill look into re using the pulley for the new system.

Texas_Ace

At the very least you could just not use the sensors you had installed on it, it would still work just fine.

Snoqualmie

yea I guess Im just out the 40 bucks plus shipping for the machine work by LCE

so with this vipec ECU is there pre set tunes you can change on the fly for fuel economy/ towing/ max preformance? or do I need a laptop hooked up to change it?

http://www.turbo-motorsport.com/vipe...4,CALCUV44.cfm

HAHA comes with LAUNCH CONTROL!

Texas_Ace

The Vipec V44 is a very good ECU for the price.

I know it has some fuel/timing trims you can setup and it might have built in map switching but really you don't need it. A GOOD tune will work all the time and never need to be changed.

90% of the time you get 2 tunes, 1 is for pump gas, the other for race gas. 9% of the time you get 2 tunes, 1 is your normal tune you drive on, and the other you use to pass emissions.

There is basically no reason i can see why you would need 2 maps to switch between on the fly. Switching maps with a laptop for a track day/dyno with race gas or for a day to pass emissions is easy. Takes a few mouse clicks. The rest of the time a single good tune is all you need.

Plus with a supercharger you really won't have any need for a separate race gas tune since you can't turn the boost up anyways. The meth injection will give you the same/better results as race gas anyways.

As far as pre-set tunes, they do have some start up tunes for some engines, not sure if they have your exact engine or not but i am sure if you call them they can tell you. Even if they don't have your exact engine it is not that hard to setup the basics.

The hardest part is getting the timing and phasing right. Past that getting it to start is just a matter of setting up which sensor you are using. Once started the tuning can begin and moves fairly quick.

The vipec has some real nice self tuning options as well to speed up the tuning. It is the ECU i want to get for my MR2 if i could afford it.

It comes with a LOT more then just launch control, you can do just about anything with it, heck it can be setup to control a meth injection system if you really know what you are doing. The V88 version has even more features and options but i think it is overkill for your setup.

If LCE has not done the work yet can you call them and have them not do it? Even if you lose that, i say it is well worth it, for the same price or possibly cheaper you will get a system that is literally 10x better.

See, now you are starting to listen and bounce ideas around, this is all we wanted from the start. Why post on the internet if you are just going to blow off anyone that offers advice?

Snoqualmie

ya this does sound like the system I want and it is about the same price as that POS LCE sold me. I havent received anything from them yet so I can cancel all that except if they have already machined the pulley. IDK if they have yet tho I am going to call them 1st thing monday morning.

As far as listenin to you guys goes... I have been, but I guess I have been a bit too defensive since I was flamed by TTORA assholes. LOL

mt_goat

Don't know what happened to my subscription on this thread so I'm late to the party. My 2 cents, use the factory ECU and a piggy back controller. You say its a daily driver right? You'll want all the factory stuff in place to make it street legal and the factory ECU mates up to all your body/dash wiring. You should be able to do a good tune with a piggy back.

Snoqualmie

I dont have any emissions here in snoqualmie

Its street legal with the vi-pec v44

we already tore out the old stock ECU

mt_goat

Tore out? Ok, guess you burned the bridge then. You'll be without OBDII and factory dash gauges, idiot lights, etc...