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You can do it Gizler00!
EDIT: Just reviewed the build thread you've got. You CAN do it!
This morning I pulled the thermostat and tested a theory. I have a new one so curiosity struck again. Both are Toyota. Curious if it will run cooler with the new one...time for the jiggle valve chit-chat.
The old one on the left is dated 12/1995, same month and year the truck was built. In other words it's definitely original.
The new one on the right is dated 12/2016.
They both opened, the old one lagged a bit before it got a clue. The opening itself was relatively somewhat significant with the new one having the larger gap.
Took notes. Hoping for the time to get it back together tomorrow or Sunday.
The FSM I took the notes from says 184 ft lbs but I will be doing 217 ft lbs and using a brand new bolt to boot.
Water pump on, t-stat in and jiggle valve at 6 o'clock, timing belt on, heater control valve replaced.
I used a 4 seasons heater control valve. NOT impressed with its quality. We'll see how long it lasts, there's always a couple of hose couplers in the tool box if trouble shows its ugly face.
The 21 year old Toyota heater control valve is still in decent shape except the lip on the left hose nipple is gone. Missing. No more. The part that's left looks a little crumbly, hopefully the bit that disappeared doesn't become an issue. Explains the minor coolant leak there. ANSWER: Less than 8 months. Been chasing a small antifreeze leak. It's the 4 Seasons heater control valve, leaking at the screw that holds the actuator to the valve body. Annoying. It wasn't a catastrophic leak, just drip. drip. drip. drip. etc.
Schley tensioner tool in action....if you use one compress it slowly, only turn until it's not easy, wait a little, do it again. Takes awhile but you'll avoid breaking the tensioner pulley bracket. It compressed pretty far before the pin would go in, as illustrated.
nice write up as always!
only thing is it looks like you forgot to put how many miles like you usually do
The original t-stat has 289,500 miles on it. That's the miles on the truck now....thanks for the heads-up, I'll go fix it. I've also got a few more pics and some notes to post soon.
I am finally almost finished with the timing belt/water pump/t-stat, ps belt, upper hose, coolant, air box and all that little stuff. Life keeps happening. S'posed to rain all day tomorrow- again!
There is a small oil leak somewhere- maybe the oil pressure switch- I want to investigate, and an exhaust leak to repair.
On the plus side I was able to do this without removing the dual battery box.
Gasket 11329-20010 for the #2 timing belt cover- this cover has 6 bolts.
Gasket 11319-20010 and 11328-20020 for the #1 timing belt cover- this cover has 4 bolts
The fat lip is the one you use the puller on. If you look close enough you'll see I learned that the hard way during timing belt change #2. That was a facepalm moment. On the plus side it's been working fine with no belt damage since then. It's a little embarrassing but I'm putting this up here because we all have those doh moments and if it helps someone avoid one then it's worth it.
There are two different crank pulley bolts for the 5vzfe. This one, 90105-16031 is the earlier version. It's a single piece whereas the newer version is two piece.
This is the crank pulley holder I pieced together using two 10.9 bolts, an OTC #6613 and a breaker bar. There's lots of ways to make a tool that will do the simple job of holding a bolt that's torqued to at least 184# and as much as 217#.
184 is the original torque spec for the crank bolt
217 is one Toyota went to and what I torque my bolt to
Schley #97300 timing belt tensioner compression tool. Only needed if you aren't replacing the hydraulic tensioner and don't want to have to unbolt it (difficult) to bench-compress it. The pulley can be replaced separately which requires a 10mm hex. If you use this tool go slowly. It will turn easily in small amounts, turn, wait, turn, wait, turn. It takes awhile but that's better than breaking the pulley bracket.
I also use a Lowes torque wrench because it can meet the required ft lbs.
Fan nuts that hold the fan and pulleys on. 90179-08040, mine were a little beat up so got a fresh set.
This is the t/b kit I used: http://www.ebay.com/itm/190580750996
The timing cover gaskets, fan nuts, crank bolt and upper and lower hoses (2 gates #21534, cut to fit) were all source here and there over the past few months.
I chose not to replace the seals, will hang onto them in case I need them for t/b change #4
Exhaust leak was a blown gasket between the cat and muffler. The whole upper half failed. I used anti-seize back in 2013 when I installed the exhaust, seems to have worked because the bolts zizzed right off with the impact. I was even able to reuse them. The exhaust is a bit crusty but not too horrible considering I'm in the salt belt.
Barely got that done and yet another storm blew in...still got more things to doooooooo....
Power steering pump leak was the reservoir o-ring. Easy since everything was loose for the timing belt job. I went ahead and replaced the p/s fluid filter too since I was in there. I thought I'd done the power steering pump a couple of years ago but turns out it was 82,000 miles ago.
I'm down to one hose clamp (one broke while tightening), antifreeze, air box, and re-installing the coolant temp sensor. Then I'll see if it runs.
After I get it running again and before I re-install the skids I'm going to change the dif, tranny and transfer case fluids. And oil.
Hey space-junk.
We actually had a mostly dry day today. Finally. I even got some stuff done. Wasn't sure if I should be finishing up the truck or building an ark!
They said no more rain until Monday. I'll believe it when I don't see it!
Hi Gizler00. I'm on the other side, near St. Louis and you're welcome.
Aircabinman has various kits for the 3.4 5vzfe to choose from depending on what you need.
96 4Runner 289,507
Done with the timing belt/ water pump/ t-stat/ power steering reservoir leak. Finally!
Had some daylight left over so got started on the next project, replacing the driver's seat belt. Sure, I'd like to replace them all but at $150, yeah, nope.
Part# 73220-35272-B0Belt & Retractor, LEFT
This is not for the newer 3rd gens, only for the 96 and 97, I believe. It's blue-grey.
IIRC the newer belts have a small charge that tightens the quickly during an accident, a pre-tensioner. The older trucks don't so I have no worries in that department. If your truck is newer/ has the pre-tensioner you probably need to find out if there's anything special to do.
Simple enough.
Remove the front and back door sills, unbolt and pop straight up to get off.
The pillar cover pops off, you can see the 3 popper thingies...
Unbolt the retractor, 14mm
Now for the shoulder adjuster. Push the adjuster button in, insert something to separate cover (I used very small flat screwdriver blade), pop off. Mine separated pretty easily.
The separated parts, bolt can now be seen. 14mm socket.
And there's a bolt on the floor too, another 14mm bolt head. Sorry the pic isn't the greatest.
Floor and retractor bolts are the same, the big one is for the shoulder adjuster. All have a 14mm head. All will be torqued to 30 ft lbs when installed.
New vs old belt. If only I had a Doomy, then I wouldn't have these awfully dirty seat belts.
The old belt barely retracts and has several frayed edges.
By now it's gotten too dark to see so I'm gonna stop for tonight. I'm assuming I'll be installing the belt 30 ft lbs for all 3 bolts starting with the retractor, then the shoulder and lastly the floor bolt. I'll let you know if some other order of operations worked better.
Another timing belt job note:
Thought my water pump was getting tired (used a stethoscope) but it turned out to be the tensioner pulley. Water pump actually still seems pretty good despite having been on there since the 1st tb change. The pulley I'd replaced with a toyota part at the 2nd tb change was grumbly and wobbly. Wouldn't have guessed that one.
Seat belt is in and went as expected. Once the retractor is in the seatbelt will release and you can put the other two bolts in. 30ft lbs for all 3.
Couple little notes, the retractor goes in with the bulk facing towards the outside, there are two places that key it into the bracket.
And another pic of the cover that fits over the adjuster's bolt, to show the little clips. It was really easy to get apart and to snap back on.
NOTE: Re-use this part or order it separate from the belt. I re-used, it was a pretty close color match.
Factory fresh parts are so nice. Expensive, but Nice.
Exactly! I've been watching the junkyard for years for a grey or blue-grey driver's belt that works or is at least not frayed without luck. I've also cleaned the old one before but that didn't really help either. Finally bit the bullet on getting the new one, believe me, I winced at the price! Thank goodness I don't have the newer style 3rd gen belts, nearly $270 shipped! That does include a $40 hazmat charge I didn't have to deal with.
Awesome write up on the seat belt. I had to do the passenger one in the Tacoma I sold and I remember I could not find any write ups. I think we're supposed to be born doing this stuff? When the dealer wants $400 you have to learn to do it yourself. You make it seem so easy. Anyway I'm going to tag "how to replace seat belt" so it can be found by the next person.
Thanks Nervo19, for the kind words.
If it's one with the explodey pre-tensioner there's another step, I think disconnecting the battery, something my old truck doesn't have and I didn't have to worry about.
03-31-2017, 06:17 AM
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