4runner

For any of you that don't remember, I have a 2000 Limited 4WD with a supercharger, TRD exhaust and headers, tranny cooler, 2 step colder plugs, TRD thermo, Apexi S-AFC, and deckplate mod. I still haven't installed my fuel mods, but my Split Second air/fuel meter (one with 02 sensor that is installed right after headers and before cat) is very inconsistent when driving. The lights go back and forth between red and blue when I drive, and idles at the first red light. My problem is that at WOT the unit stays constant (so I know it's working) but the last blue light is lit. This occurs until I go around 80-90 mph and then at WOT the second to last light (still blue) is lit. How is this possible if I haven't done any fuel mods yet?
The O2 sensor was a PITA to install since I had to drill, so I'm worried that I didn't install it correctly. The sensor is located close to the Toyota sensor but angled slightly downward.

As usual, any help is greatly appreciated

heliax

This seems to be consistent with the newer models. I have a 2001 and my gauge also is/was on the last two lights (rich), even before I put the 330cc injectors in! Believe it! I installed my sensor right next to the stock WB sensor as well.

ravencr

Consider yourself lucky and hold off on the fuel mods. Take it to a dyno shop and see if they are getting the same readings at WOT using their equipment. Then you'll know that you either do or don't have to do the fuel mods.

Chris

4runner

Thanks Heliax, but just curious as to how you got your injectors tuned in if the air/fuel meter doesn't work. Did you have to install an EGT instead?
I really don't want to spend money on one, since I thought the air/fuel meter would be adequate.
Chris, for some reason I don't actually believe I'm really running that rich. I think fuel mods are probably still necessary. I just don't understand how the meter shows that rich of a mixture.

ravencr

I'm not sure either man, but I wish you the best of luck figuring it out.

Chris

derrick92130

Are you running an EGT? The sensor used to drive the SS A/F gauge does have "ideal" temperature ranges which reflect the accuracy of the display. From their website:

"The EGO1 will produce similar readings over a temperature range of 800 degrees F to 1400 degrees F. At temperatures above this range, very rich readings indicate lower air/fuel ratios (more rich). At temperatures below this range, very rich readings indicate higher air/fuel ratios (less rich). "

So, if you are running over 1400 degrees, it may be reading "richer" than it actually is.

If you aren't running an EGT, you may want to take the advice someone gave earlier and get to a good dyno shop to get accurate A/F ratios from a wideband sensor, etc to assist with tuning.

Just my guess.

heliax

Thats the thing...I have not been able to "tune" my injectors 100% correctly. I don't have my EGT installed yet, nor have I been able to dyno the truck. I don't have any audible pinging or power loss because I have been tuning it basically every single night on the way home from school (On the highway at 11pm at nite the road is empty hehe) I've got 3 forced induction vehicles so I basically use that experience. I've only dyno'ed one of em, and we got nearly 75hp extra just from that. I would recommend finding a dyno near and making some passes on it.