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So I got an 81 22R, so what have I really got?

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Old 12-23-2003, 08:40 PM
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So I got an 81 22R, so what have I really got?

I got an 81 22R, and I hear it is among the most durable engines ever made. Mine runs good, has a slow steady oil leak from what looks like the timing chain cover, and has about 110k original miles on it. I know the 81 was not cursed with the plastic timing chain guides and has a nice double row chain. Anyway, what I am looking for is what are the strengths and weaknesses of this engine. What special maintenance should I pay close attention to outside of oil changes? Basically any info anyone could give me is appreciated.
Old 12-23-2003, 08:47 PM
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The biggest weakness I have experienced is its horrible power. This thing is slower than molasses in winter time.

Also, I had problems with my carburetor, it would flood the engine after being shut off, and if I came back to start it, 20 min later, it wouldn't want to start because of it being flooded. I installed a Holley reman carb and DON'T GET ONE OF THESE PIECES OF [EXPLETIVE]! Kidney stones are more fun. I went through two defective ones, and about 50 calls to their "service" department, I only got through once! even in non peak hours I called. The problem corrected itself though. I no longer have it as bad, all I did was run a few of those carb cleaner additives. So I don't know what else might have changed


And welcome to yotatech! I am glad to see the carburetor community growing!
Old 12-23-2003, 09:19 PM
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Its a wee bit gutless, but A. My last car was a 4cyl Citation automatic, and B. I need to not get tickets, so basically its good for me. Has all the power I need for highway speeds and just enough gumption in the 5 speed if I drop a gear and rev it scary high when I need to pass a sunday driver, it can do what needs to be done.
Old 12-24-2003, 04:17 AM
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Do you know if your timing chain has ever been replaced? Besides normal fluid and tuneup maintenance I have never had any other issues with my 22r's. It also seems like I have had to replace the radiator in most of my high-milage/older Toyotas, this is probably due to me getting them used and the previous owners not using distilled water in the cooling system (local water is very high in minerals). I have gotten from 200-300K miles out of several 22r's without rebuilds (except timing chains).


Old 12-24-2003, 05:59 AM
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No I don't know about the timing chain.....How will I know when it's time to change it?
Old 12-24-2003, 08:28 AM
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22R engines are awesome. they're just a little on the slow side for a 4x4

i used to own an '84 2wd, that thing drove like a race car. was only a 4 speed so i could hit 40 in second gear easily

when i'm done with my truck for some time, i plan on buying another 2wd and putting a 1 ton axle with a supra lsd in it, 38mm weber downdraft or 2 weber 40mm sidedrafts, a hot cam and a header in it. that thing will fly
Old 12-24-2003, 08:44 AM
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Originally posted by markjs
No I don't know about the timing chain.....How will I know when it's time to change it?
Typically you will hear them rattling, particularly right when you start the engine up. Also, that timing cover leak you mentioned, if it looks like it is coming out from around the crank seal in the oil pump...that seal is pretty easily replaced. After I did a couple and learned the procedure it took longer to pull the radiator and shroud then it did to pull the harmonic balancer and pump off and replace the seal (about 2 hours total).

Old 12-24-2003, 09:37 AM
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Originally posted by barkeywayne
Typically you will hear them rattling, particularly right when you start the engine up. Also, that timing cover leak you mentioned, if it looks like it is coming out from around the crank seal in the oil pump...that seal is pretty easily replaced. After I did a couple and learned the procedure it took longer to pull the radiator and shroud then it did to pull the harmonic balancer and pump off and replace the seal (about 2 hours total).

I can't hear any rattling. Can I pull the valve cover and check for looseness? Is the valve cover gasket re-useable?
Old 12-24-2003, 03:19 PM
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Unless the chain is real bad I don't think you can get a good indication by pulling the valve cover. I beleive the chain tensioner is hydraulic and only applies full tension when you have oil pressure (motor running). As far as the valve cover gasket goes I have reused a lot of them but occasionally I have torn one on removal.
Old 12-24-2003, 03:39 PM
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So basically if I am not hearing rattling I shouldn't worry? BTW that oil leak is definately above the level of the oil pump and its very slow (looks bad because of buildup) but the oil level stays high for a good while.

(I do believe its possible the timing chain has been done, but I have no way to know....I boght it off a guy who only had it about a year and only changed the water pump.)

Last edited by markjs; 12-24-2003 at 03:40 PM.
Old 12-24-2003, 04:15 PM
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Yep, Kyle is right about that! Get a 4sp man. 2wd version with some basic mods on it and you will fly. It's like driving a little racecar truck.LOL!

22r's are extremely reliable. I have over 400K original miles on mine and it still runs like new! Except for adjusting the valves and replacing the intake, EGR, and carb gaskets on it, the motor is basically untouched. Also, it passes CA smog with ease!

When I bought it off my uncle almost 3 years ago, it still had the original radiator, radiator cap and thermostat still in it. However, the oil has always been changed at the 2500-3500 mile mark and only Toyota brand oil filters used.

Unfortunately, I do see a lot of 22r PUs, Celicas, and Coronas at the junkyards that seem to always have Fram brand oil-filters on them. Never OEM type Toyota filters. So maybe that's the major key to longevity in these particular engines. I don't know. Of course, you have to include the proper amount of TLC which counts a lot too.LOL!

Nice thing about these engines, aside from their relative simplicity, is that they give you the ability to do cool things with them like mods. They don't bog you down with maintenance and/or reliability issues that can seriously drain your wallet of money if you know what I mean.
Old 12-30-2003, 12:48 AM
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With only 110K miles and steel guides, I wouldn't be too worried about a timing chain yet. Change it at ~200K and you should be fine for another 200K unless you start hearing a rattle on startup before this.
Old 12-30-2003, 01:35 AM
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Is it normal that this truck barely can do 60? I am not loaded down but I have a large canopy. The truck struggles to get over 60 miles per hour.
Old 12-30-2003, 09:32 AM
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what size tires do you have? is it a 4-speed?

my '79 can hit 70 fairly easy...though it's revving 3600 by then it was a lot harder when i had the 32s on there, i'm running 27s now

also, have you changed the fuel filter? i had an old gunked up one when i bought my truck, and could barely even hit 50

Last edited by kyle_22r; 12-30-2003 at 09:33 AM.
Old 12-31-2003, 07:49 PM
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Its a 5 speed. It'll do 60 going uphill in 4th but not 5th.. It doesn't have any power at all in 5th.

Where is the fuel filter? I traced the line from the pump to the carb but find no filters. Its just a brass screw that goes into the carb and has the rubber hose over it. I find nothing even remotely resembling a fuel filter and the only way to get down in there is to open up the carburator.

The tires are as far as I know completely stock 205/75/R14.

Last edited by markjs; 12-31-2003 at 07:51 PM.
Old 01-01-2004, 02:04 PM
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you have the mechanical pump on the head, right? on those trucks i believe the filter is underneath the truck by the gas tank...could be wrong though

from the sound of your lack of power problem, it's probably the axle gearing. i think 81 toyotas had 3.90 gears, which are pretty high for a little truck like that. you could probably find 2 4.10 or 4.30 or 4.38 diffs pretty cheaply, as they are quite common(a lot of guys swap out their diffs for something beefier when they regear/do a sas, and want to get rid of their old 4 cyl diffs)
Old 01-03-2004, 02:40 AM
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I am hoping the fuel filter could be part of the problem. Being under the truck makes it entirely possible it hs been neglected since 1980. are they real hard to change? I have as yet to crawl under there.
Old 01-03-2004, 02:46 AM
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Kinda awkward to reach sometimes but otherwise an easy swap. And yes, it should be mounted on top of the frame rail towards the front of the tank.
Old 01-03-2004, 06:20 AM
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Originally posted by toy283
Kinda awkward to reach sometimes but otherwise an easy swap. And yes, it should be mounted on top of the frame rail towards the front of the tank.
They are very awkward on a shortbed truck (not much room to manuveur) but quite a bit easier on a longbed/xcab. I usually have a pair of needle nosed vise grips handy to clamp off the rubber line to minimize fuel leakage.

Old 01-03-2004, 06:43 AM
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My '81's performance was greatly improved with the addition of a Doug Thorely tri-y header a decent cam (can't remember the grind), and 2 1/4" exhaust. It had the 4:10 gears with 33" BFG M/T's & 5" lift and had no trouble cruising at 70 Mph although it was a 4-speed. It was my first vehicle and one of the funnest off-road as you could just beat the living crap out of it.


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