Need To Remove Rusty Rear o2 Sensor...
 

Welp I went through inspection and failed cause the Rear o2 Sensore failed...
I have the part and am sort of ready to put it on...

This is my issue:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/...e/DSC02643.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/...e/DSC02642.jpg

Any ideas of what to put on?
I mean I am thinking the bolts might just break off...
Any input is great...

Just don't tell remind me that I should not by a rig in the Rust Belt...
I have learned my lesson...
Trust me....

Looks like mine - my truck spent it's first few years in Chicago.

Your best bet is to use PB Blaster (buy it at Schucks/Kragers). SOAK the nuts, let it sit for 15 minutes. Try the nuts LIGHTLY with a _BOX_ wrench (or a socket), and if they move, then tighten them back _ONLY_ as much as you loosened them. Soak the nuts again. Repeat as many times as required to get the nuts off. Try to make a bit more progress each time.

It can take a while, but the alternative is just to cut your losses, snap the studs off then weld new ones back on. That's generally an impossible weld to do with the pipe in place, so what you're really looking at is cutting the pipe out and replacing the fitting with a bung.


Good luck!

Thats used the PB and slowly tried as you said,
actually came off alot easier then II thought it would...
However tomorrow I am going to go get new studs and nuts
cause I don't know how well the old one will hold the new o2 Senesor in place....

You got lucky. Definately use new nuts and some antiseize to keep them from fusing together for next time. If I come across rusted parts that need to be freed up I usually hit them with WD40 or PB blaster once a day for a week and often that is enough to make a big difference in getting stuff apart without breaking anything. I often just spray each bolt under the hood on the engine 2 times per winter and that is enough to keep them from looking like what you posted......makes a big difference for a little extra time spent.

Cool!


Good plan. I actually snapped a stud off of my front one a couple of months ago - that piece is custom on my truck, and I didn't want to have it rebuilt. So, I got a bit crafty with a metal flex clamp. :)

LOL, gotta get crafty with the yota's sometimes...

I am thinking I will be doing a bit more saving and when I get enough, get new headers, high flow cat, new muffler and new pipe...

The rust in that thing was just unbarable to look at...

The whole underside fo the 4runner could use a good cleaning and then rust proof paint...

Whoa.. Don't blow off my post to that statement over in this thread:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...=101970&page=2

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...3&postcount=35


:)

In my opinon peopel waste to much time using pb or wd the easiest way to get bolts of is to simply heat wiht propane torch and toch with a wax candle. The wax drws into the threds and bam..the bolts or nuts coem right out no problem.

Well The old o2 Sensor is out of course...
Looked like about time too...
Thats the carnage thats left from removing it...
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/...e/DSC02644.jpg

Well, keep in mind that the rear O2 sensor doesn't do anything 'cept provide a check point for the ECU to determine if the cat is working. All the fuel management decisions are made by the front one. So, unless you threw a code, there's really nothing to be gained be changing it.

Yeah I got thrown a code, hense the replacment...
Wouldn't let me pass inspetction either...

how many miles did you have on the old sensor ?

It Started to go right before 100,000 Miles

mine has 140k on them i hope they last longer

I'll keep my fingures crossed for ya!
I don't knwo if you garage keep your Runner...
But I don't think mine was...
That Or the only timeit was driven was on salty roads and thats it...
I can't wait till I have enough money for a whole new exhaust...