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-   -   Removing transmission pan....2 quick questions (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/removing-transmission-pan-2-quick-questions-106605/)

Mason Dixon 02-08-2007 11:32 AM

Removing transmission pan....2 quick questions
 
First time I've done this and all the haynes says is to drain and unscrew the bolts holding the pan on

my questions are:

a) it looks like the dipstick separates in the middle, whats the best way to separate it without damaging it(like I would think pliers would do)

b) do I have to remove the front swaybar? it looks like the pan will not drop unless the swaybar is removed or at least loosened up

mkgarrison5 02-08-2007 11:42 AM

what make and model please lol.. need info

Mason Dixon 02-08-2007 11:47 AM

2000 4 runner

MTL_4runner 02-08-2007 12:01 PM


Originally Posted by Mason Dixon (Post 50423897)
First time I've done this and all the haynes says is to drain and unscrew the bolts holding the pan on

my questions are:

a) it looks like the dipstick separates in the middle, whats the best way to separate it without damaging it(like I would think pliers would do)

b) do I have to remove the front swaybar? it looks like the pan will not drop unless the swaybar is removed or at least loosened up

I prefer to pull the dipstick, then undo the one bolt on top holding the dipstick tube to the engine block. After that, just twist and yank on the tube at the same time and it should come free (there's just an o-ring between the two parts). Dropping the sway bar from it's mounts only takes a few seconds and makes it much easier to get the pan on and off (esp important when it's covered in RTV when you go to put it back on) so I would definately do that as well.

Mason Dixon 02-08-2007 12:03 PM


Originally Posted by MTL_4runner (Post 50423952)
I prefer to pull the dipstick, then undo the one bolt on top holding the dipstick tube to the engine block. After that, just twist and yank on the tube at the same time and it should come free (there's just an o-ring between the two parts). Dropping the sway bar from it's mounts only takes a few seconds and makes it much easier to get the pan on and off (esp important when it's covered in RTV when you go to put it back on) so I would definately do that as well.

thankyou sir

midiwall 02-08-2007 01:10 PM

Also note that this is a MESSY job. You need to figure on spilling a quart or two of ATF - it's pretty hard not to.

My local Gawd learned me to:
  • Do this cold. It will minimize the amount of ATF stuck up high on the various pieces.
  • Drain as much as you can out of the pan via the drain plug. (NOTE: When it stops dripping, there's still a LOT more in there)
  • Pull all the bolts 'cept for the two middle ones.
  • Loosen the two middles, but leave a couple of threads engaged.
  • Place a large bucket on the ground under the tranny pan.
  • Crack the pan loose from the housing (it's stuck there with RTV) then tilt the pan to one end, draining as much from the pan that you can.
  • Tilt the pan to the other end, doing the same.
  • If you don't have someone to help, then stuff your shoulder up against the pan to hold it flush against the transmission.
  • Remove those last two screws, and practice your Yoga in spinning around and grabbing the pan with your hands, maintaining pressure against the tranny.
  • As level as you can. pull the pan away from the tranny. There's about 1/2 quart of ATF left in it.
  • Dump the pan into the bucket and...
  • ...look behind you 'cause there's a BUNCH of ATF dripping all over the ground.
Now, if you're looking to pull the valve body as well, you'll find even more ATF stuck to things above it, and even MORE ATF _in_ the VB.

It's EVERYWHERE.

Mason Dixon 02-08-2007 01:15 PM

i'm still stuck getting the stabilizer/sway bar out of the way, one side was rusted up so good I ended up breaking the link and will need another one($$$) and then I need to unfasten the dipstick.....i can't believe there hasn't been a writeup done on this.....everyone makes it seem so easy to just drop the pan

MTL_4runner 02-08-2007 02:19 PM


Originally Posted by Mason Dixon (Post 50424052)
i'm still stuck getting the stabilizer/sway bar out of the way, one side was rusted up so good I ended up breaking the link and will need another one($$$) and then I need to unfasten the dipstick.....i can't believe there hasn't been a writeup done on this.....everyone makes it seem so easy to just drop the pan

You should have soaked the links and bolts in WD40 or PB blaster before trying them. The job is definately alot easier if you live outside the rust belt. I fight with bolts on mine all the time and often snap them off with an impact gun every now and then. Just the price of DIY work.

gpcollen1 02-08-2007 02:44 PM

First time is always a bear!!

Mason Dixon 02-08-2007 02:45 PM

yeah, pbBlaster is def your best friend

I'm still stuck trying to get the dipstick apart, is this a 2 man job? I've got everything loose and off(including the swaybar) and can't get the dipstick to come apart. Any tips?

midiwall 02-08-2007 03:32 PM


Originally Posted by Mason Dixon (Post 50424164)
I'm still stuck trying to get the dipstick apart, is this a 2 man job? I've got everything loose and off(including the swaybar) and can't get the dipstick to come apart. Any tips?

Leave it in/on/together... :) It's fun to fish down, but you can leave it in/on/together.

Mason Dixon 02-10-2007 12:24 PM

5 Attachment(s)
okay, got the tranny pan off after fishing the dipstick down which was actually very easy after i found out why it was getting snagged at the top

man, was my pan dirty! here are a few shots of the pan, as you can see, there is flakes of old tranny oil coated on the inside of the pan, it took a good hour with a wire brush, heavy industrial foaming cleaner, and brake cleaner to get the pan cleaned up
Attachment 172706
Attachment 172707

Here is the filter, after a whole can of brake cleaner and carb cleaner the sludge was just too much and I've opted to just get a new filter for 45 bux, there is no way this coming clean

Attachment 172708
Attachment 172709

Here is the cleaned up pan, I was lucky in that I didn't find any visible metal flakes in the pan and hopefully my shifting problem will go away with a new filter allowing full flow of tranny fluid through
Attachment 172710

I should also note that I've got 128k miles

MTL_4runner 02-10-2007 12:38 PM

Wow, that was in rough shape, I'm surprised the filter could get any fluid through it at all.
Any pics of the valve body? Was the fluid burnt on everywhere inside the tranny?

Mason Dixon 02-10-2007 12:47 PM

3 Attachment(s)
I don't know much about transmissions but the valve body looks to be pretty clean, i'm not sure why the pan and filter was so filthy

Attachment 172711
Attachment 172712
Attachment 172713

mt_goat 02-10-2007 01:07 PM

Wow, very dirty filter and pan. How many miles on that?

Mason Dixon 02-10-2007 01:12 PM


Originally Posted by mt_goat (Post 50426501)
Wow, very dirty filter and pan. How many miles on that?

I'm guessing it was never cleaned so it is probably 128k on the pan and filter, but the valve body looks to be okay, right?

MTL_4runner 02-10-2007 01:58 PM


Originally Posted by Mason Dixon (Post 50426507)
I'm guessing it was never cleaned so it is probably 128k on the pan and filter, but the valve body looks to be okay, right?

Ok, yeah the valve body looks to be fine. Just clean it all as best you can (wipe the pan and mating surfaces down with brake cleaner and a clean rag) and refill with fresh fluid. I'll bet you notice quite a difference after.


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