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Question about replacing sway bar links and sway bar bushings

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Old 04-20-2016, 09:41 PM
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Question about replacing sway bar links and sway bar bushings

I replaced the links and the bushings (the bushings for the links as well as the big bushings on the actual sway bar itself). They are just basic rubber bushings...I don't notice any squeeking or other issues but should I have greased them with some sort of silicone lubricant? I put them on dry and I'm wondering if that can be problematic?
Old 04-20-2016, 11:38 PM
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Red face

Just the rubber ones you should be ok

It is the fancy polyurethane ones that need the lubricant

Nothing wrong if you want to lube yours though.
Old 06-25-2016, 02:13 PM
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When attempting to remove my end links, the entire (bottom) bolt seemed to be turning while loosening the nut. Is this normal, and if so how do you get the nut free?
Old 06-26-2016, 12:26 AM
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The other end has a Allen head I forget what size.

Kinda a dumb idea because it gets filled with dirt and rust then you have to get it cleaned out so the correct size wrench fits.

Herein the great Rust belt I ended up just cutting mine off.

You need the correct size allen wrench to tighten them as well
Old 10-30-2017, 09:28 AM
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I just did both of my front end sway bar links:

A few tips:
1) You don't need to jack up the truck (unless you're really beefy and can't fit under the truck) and you don't need to remove either wheel.
2) Forget that Allen wrench. You're removing broken or useless links so you don't need to care about whether you scrape things up.
Just use a medium size vise grip and clamp onto the part on the back side of the frame where the lower end of the link fits in. In other
words: I'm calling the side having the large 17mm nut as the "front side".
3) You'll put the upper end of the new link in first (that's the sway bar itself). BUT you probably won't be able to get the lower end into
the hole, probably only 1/4" or so. Easy: use a jack handle or other strong rod to lever up the sway bar by levering against the axle.
It doesn't take much effort; if I can do it, anyone can.
4) If you're using an American aftermarket end link e.g. Moog, the lower nut will not be metric. I used the original 17mm nuts so I wouldn't
have to deal with it.
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