problems after changing the brakes.....
just changed my brakes (front) and put on some reybestos qs pads as well as having the rotors turned. Now i KNOW ( :bang: ) i should have replaced them and i didnt but heres the problem.
Still have the woble at highway speeds when braking but not quite as bad. also the left rotor was warped pretty bad, the guy let me watch him turn them. shaould i say screw it and get new rotors..i only drove about 10 miles on the new pads so i dont think that will be a problem to re-use them.......... I KNOW I SHOULDA LISTENED BUT I AM A DUMB A$$!!! :chair: Thanks in advance..... |
Originally Posted by fireteacher
shaould i say screw it and get new rotors..i only drove about 10 miles on the new pads so i dont think that will be a problem to re-use them..........
I KNOW I SHOULDA LISTENED BUT I AM A DUMB A$$!!! :chair: |
i am going to get rotors but is there a possibilty it could be something else as well?
any ideas? |
Originally Posted by fireteacher
i am going to get rotors but is there a possibilty it could be something else as well?
any ideas? If you really wanna hunt for things to check as far as vibration goes, feel free to search. |
Get the rotors and don't forget to break in the pads.http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
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Somtimes alignment matters too!
Nam |
agreed, i know for a fact that my alignment is slightly out to but i was going to fix this first,.....should i just leave the turned rotors on and have my alignment done?
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Get the rotors first and then if it's still there, an alignment. An alignment shouldn't cause a vibration while braking, but you should double check all your front end components for wear ie: tie rods, ball joints, ect.
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ok also i somehow damaged a stud (hammer trying to loosen the rotor) and striped a lug nut in the process of trying to get it on. from other threads i have read, all i need to do is move the caliper, take the rotor off, and drive the stud out through the rear. now do i need to turn it or simply beat it out? also, do i need a punch cause i dont have one to get the stud out or after it gets close to flush, use a screw driver/socket extention/ect?
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everything feels pretty good now, pedal is a little soft though but i will bleed it if it dosnt get firmer in a day or so. i borke the pads in as the link said and it was fun to stop that fast i tell ya!!!!!!!!!
thanks folx! |
Originally Posted by fireteacher
everything feels pretty good now, pedal is a little soft though but i will bleed it if it dosnt get firmer in a day or so. i borke the pads in as the link said and it was fun to stop that fast i tell ya!!!!!!!!!
thanks folx! Also, many have said that ss brakelines help w/ firming up a pedal. Haven't done this yet but will on the next set of front pads... |
i did the ebrake method for the rears and i have 9 clicks for the ebrake to be firm. another method?
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Originally Posted by fireteacher
i did the ebrake method for the rears and i have 9 clicks for the ebrake to be firm. another method?
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only way i know to adjust the rear brakes is by driving in reverse about 10mph and lifting the ebrake a few times to stop! explain your way...
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-Pull rear tires off
-Pull rear drums off -spray with brake clean till clean -adjust star wheel -Install rear drums -install rear tires -torque wheels |
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