No Start - Good battery, ground, alternator, starter. Won't jump start.
 

I have a 2001 Tacoma crew cab 3.4 v6

I have had an starting issue on and off for about a year but now it's to the point where it won't even jump start.

I have replace the spark plugs, coil packs, timing and other belts, and the starter.

Battery tested good both at advanced auto and with my multimeter.

No voltage drop when I turn to start it. Just one click and clock dims. All other lights stay fine.

When it is running the alternator is charging. And I already relplaced the starter and took it out to have it tested. Both wires to it are receiving the needed power but it's not turning over. Just one click.

Cleaned all grounds and connections

Checked all the fuses

Removed an aftermarket remote start from past owner.

Checked starter relay in fuse box.

Any help would be great.

You need to trace the circuit to see where the fault is. Just guessing at possible faults is is not getting you anywhere.

First thing is to determine if you have a good, fully charged battery and a working charging system. So three tests:

1) key-off voltage 12.5 or better at the battery.
2) engine running voltage 13.5 to 14.5
3) good load test on battery. Do this first, no matter how sure you are that all is fine.

Second, you need to determine if the starter relay is closing or not, and if it is not, is the fault on the ground side or hot side of the coil. This will tell you which leg of the circuit to follow. You will be looking at things like the park/neutral or clutch switch, the ignition key switch and so on, depending on where the fault is. If it is closing, then you need to revisit your terminals, grounds and cables, as well as the connection from the start relay to the starter solenoid coil.

You need the wiring diagram to do this right. I'm a 4Runner guy and you're not or I'd post it for you. I don't have the Taco EWDs.

Neutral safety switch located near the parking pawl(under plastic center shift console)?

Free2Ride,
Good Luck in solving your starting problems. Pay close attention to what TheDurk just said. He obviously knows what he is talking about.

Take a good hard look at the big wires going to your starter. I had a very similar issue with mine last year and finally, I got to got under the truck and wiggled the cable while somebody else tried to crank it and it went on and started while I was doing it. I replaced that cable and haven't had any issues since. There was some kind of breakdown inside the insulation that I couldn't see. It showed good voltage on the multimeter. It just wouldn't handle the amps needed to start the engine.

In my business, I troubleshoot no start issues more than anything else. I've found that when I get a solenoid click and dimming lights, its more than likely related to the batteries or cables.

You don`t say Manual or Auto??

This is a failure to crank not a failure to start

Measure your voltage from the positive terminal to the block.

I am leaning towards a bad ground

neutral safety or clutch start circuits you would have nothing .

your not getting the watts needed to the starter.

What do the battery terminals and cables look like ??

They do get tired and old just like me.:coffee: