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Maybe paint my truck?

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Old 05-19-2004, 08:52 PM
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Maybe paint my truck?

Hey guys i am hoping to get your help. I need to get the rust off my body and was wondering about how to do that. Should i cut out where the big peices of rust are and then weld new metal on or just shine it up with a wire brush?

And then when i paint it i was thinking i would just do it one peice at a time. What kind of paint should i use? i was thinking just using some rustoleum primer and then some rustoleum black paint. If this is wrong please correct me.

Thanks guys. I dont need to do it anytime soon, the rust isnt too bad no holes or nuthing but i would like to get it taken care of.
Old 05-19-2004, 09:05 PM
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Have any pictures? If there are no holes, I would just go nuts with the sanding and wire brush and then smooth it out with a little bondo. If you are going rattle can, I have found Rustolium deosn't seem to get hard. I have had much better luck with rust tough Krylon. It is much harder and seemes to weather a little better.
Old 05-19-2004, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by bike4miles
Have any pictures? If there are no holes, I would just go nuts with the sanding and wire brush and then smooth it out with a little bondo. If you are going rattle can, I have found Rustolium deosn't seem to get hard. I have had much better luck with rust tough Krylon. It is much harder and seemes to weather a little better.
Yeah i need to bring my digi cam home from my Dads house. I will check out the Krylon too. I think i am going to do it in small stages, starting with the hood and work my way back.
Old 05-19-2004, 09:10 PM
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I would sand as much as you can, then naval jelly and one step, then bondo and putty.... just from experience as thats what i have done...
Old 05-19-2004, 09:57 PM
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Oh yes! Naval jelly works like a charm. Don't get the kind that turns the rust into primer though. That stuff is junk.

Apply enough Naval jelly to cover the rust. Let it soak until you see the metal areas begin to brighten up. Rinse with water and repeat until you see no more rusty areas on the panel. Get your favorite can of primer and give it 3 or 4 coats to "build-up" the surface. After drying, scuff sand it and then spray the final color coat. If the rust was deep, you may have us some bondo before the primer to help smooth out the surface.

I did the bottom of my battery tray like this. No bondo though. I also decided to restore the battery clamp the same way and sprayed some "rubberized" top coating on it after stripping/ priming to match the old factory rubber dip coating. Looks like new now.LOL!
Old 05-19-2004, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by mikedog
Oh yes! Naval jelly works like a charm. Don't get the kind that turns the rust into primer though. That stuff is junk.
Where do i get that jelly?
Old 05-19-2004, 11:03 PM
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Any home improvement hardware store.

I usually get mine from Home Depot. They always have it. It's called The Original Naval Jelly brand rust dissolver part no. 80278 made by Loctite Corp. It comes in a big 1-quart white plastic bottle. Level-3 (for extreme rust removal) seems to work the best for me.
Old 05-20-2004, 04:23 AM
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I've also heard Hammerrite is supposed to be real good rattle can. If you have big holes I would definitely cut it out and weld in new sheetmetal. Or if you go the naval jelly route make sure to get ALL the rust out because, I'm sure you know this, if you paint or bondo over it the rust will eventually work its way back through.

If you want a good even, consistent finish and you have an air compressor. I would invest in a cheap HVLP gravity spray gun and get some true automotive paint and primer. You can get a good single stage Urethane Enamel by "Omni". I get mine at CarQuest Auto Refinish stores. Don't know if you have one around you. PPG makes it and you can get it for about $30 a quart. I've used it a couple of times and like, and other people I know that have used it like it.

For me, spray cans don't have a wide enough spray fan for a good finish (you'll be able to see spray line) A true auto paint will put on an even finish and I think will stand up a lot better. But if its just a beat around truck I would worry too much about that. I've painted a lot of houses and a couple of cars so it comes from experience.

my $.02
Old 05-20-2004, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by motrhedx81
I've also heard Hammerrite is supposed to be real good rattle can. If you have big holes I would definitely cut it out and weld in new sheetmetal. Or if you go the naval jelly route make sure to get ALL the rust out because, I'm sure you know this, if you paint or bondo over it the rust will eventually work its way back through.

If you want a good even, consistent finish and you have an air compressor. I would invest in a cheap HVLP gravity spray gun and get some true automotive paint and primer. You can get a good single stage Urethane Enamel by "Omni". I get mine at CarQuest Auto Refinish stores. Don't know if you have one around you. PPG makes it and you can get it for about $30 a quart. I've used it a couple of times and like, and other people I know that have used it like it.

For me, spray cans don't have a wide enough spray fan for a good finish (you'll be able to see spray line) A true auto paint will put on an even finish and I think will stand up a lot better. But if its just a beat around truck I would worry too much about that. I've painted a lot of houses and a couple of cars so it comes from experience.

my $.02
Ok cool. Thanks for all the tips you guys.
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