Made some new swaybar links
 

After installing a new front swaybar bushing kit...I noticed the factory links were shot. I thought about buying a set of wab_fab quick disconnects...but opted to piece together my own kit. I had to buy in bulk..so I have enough to make at least 4-5 more pairs. (might post them on ebay. :bigok: )

pics:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...r/sblinks1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...r/sblinks2.jpg

Any idea if these will work on the rear sway bar as well? If so, I'd be interested in a pair

I plan on making a set for the rear by the end of the week. (the rears are shorter) :banger:

that is some nice fab right there!

Whats the starting bid or buy it now price and shipping?

Looks really good. Don't eBay your remaining one's, I'm sure there are 4-5 people on here that would appreciate them if they're priced well.

A for taking initiative and effort, but you are going to have issues and those are endlinks, not quick discos. :D

No need to disco the rear.

Theaded rod does not look coated and it WILL rust, especially if you did not coat the cuts and not all threaded rod is the same strength/grade material.

Zerk fiting is pointless and will just get busted or come out and let moisture in/rust.

Normal nuts like you are using will walk over time and loosen, even double nutted.

Did you secure the threaded rod in the heim? Weld? Loctite?

Different years and models use different parts and are not the same in spite of appearance.

Making endlinks is a stretch to call fabrication too.:hillbill:

:guitar:

pwned :hillbill:

:think:

Whatever....he has his right to promote his endlinks...but I see nothing wrong with mine. The threaded rod is ASTM gade B7 (the oily type).....the nuts and bolts are all ASTM coated grade 8...and the heim joint is rated at 6,420 lbs load capacity....and last time I checked most u-joints come with grease fittings and have no problems with the breakin off or letting moisture in. Everything was secured with CAT brand loctice and Anti-seize. And I can easily make these quick disconnects...but really have no need for that. I better watch out for all the problems I'm going to have...:nerd:

I could give a flip what you build or try to sell but I've made hundreds of those and learned from experience what works and what does not. I've had to warranty ONE link that the owner admittedly broke being stupid so I helped him out.

As far as promoting my own, you started it. :hillbill:

:guitar:

I have made quite a few different disconnect setups for mine through the process of different suspension setups and now the SAS. And in my experience the all-thread will break/bend. The disconnect part is the most difficult part.. an easily removed/installed part that is quiet.

AdrianaTer, great job on taking the initiative to try to make something yourself, but why are you getting upset when those who have spent a lot of time R&D'ing the very thing you're trying to build give some wise advice about it? Don't take offense at it, just take it into consideration.

If you're confident in your endlinks, great, but if someone who has built a grip of them shares concerns, isn't it wise to consider their concerns?

Anyway, just something to think about.

That being said... they do look cool. :D

I have no hard feelings.....
I'm not trying to sell anything on here either....just bought the extra hardware and I'm letting peeps know if they want any...I'll gladly share the wealth. Thats all. I don't post much on these boards but read a load of informative posts.

Kudos to Wabbit for supplying a good source of parts to us....I did read through your comments carefully and took in your opinion....I just have my own opinion. (self lubricating heims are less money after all..so I didn't do it to save money on the hardware)

i'm interested
let me know

Wow, those look great. Nice work!

AdrianaTer I think it is great you made your own. I did not make mine, but did take measurements and found that the rear links from a 2nd gen work great on a 3rd gen with the landcruiser coils on the rear. They are not as strong as the WabFab and are not quick disconnect, but they only cost $10 per set and keep the lift all toyota. I am not sure, but they would probably work on the front of a lifted 3rd gen as well. Way to share the wealth with all of us, as this is the point of a forum like this in my opinion.