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i want to add a condenser fan for my 98 4runner,any sugestions?

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Old 11-21-2012, 05:02 PM
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it works really well,ill post the results later
Attached Thumbnails i want to add a condenser fan for my 98 4runner,any sugestions?-img_20121121_160709.jpg  
Old 11-21-2012, 10:53 PM
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the fan looks a bit small, but it should be able to help in lowering temp of the A/c fluid in the condenser.
Old 11-22-2012, 04:39 AM
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The little fan that could! I have a trip on saturday,hope doesnt rain,that way i can test the fan under pressure
Old 12-11-2012, 05:20 PM
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after a few weeks testing the efan it seems that the a/c gets cold a bit faster also the charging sound that can be heard in the evap now is shorter so its charging a lot faster and of course much more colder in a sunny day.
Old 12-11-2012, 06:27 PM
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glad to know it works!.. i have never noticed that charging sound in the evap...how many secs is the cycle time for the charging of the evap? I'd like to check on my truck's ac and compare
Old 12-14-2012, 01:24 PM
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It should not take too long mine was taking about 8 sec the first time now maybe 3 the first time barely noticed. I was talkking with a friend of mine who is an a/c tech and i ask him about the evap failure in 3 gens 4runners and tacomas and he told me that the failure is caused by constant high pressure and the lack of cool airpassing trough the condenser since there is no fan in front of it the fan clutch is not enough.i told him that i added a fan to the condenser and now the a/c is working better,he says now the heat that generate pressure isnt hurting the a/c system or the evap good choice.
Old 12-14-2012, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by runnermedic
A motor is an inductor, just like a coil (including an ignition coil), and so resists instaneous changes in current, also a turning dc motor is also a dc generator, so there will be voltage across the motor until it stops turning (the "backflow" mentioned, not a big deal, though). The main concern is removing power from the motor results in the motor trying to hold the same current flow through it, except that the relay contacts are open and there is no path for current to go. The current has to go SOMEWHERE, and the easiest place is often to arc across the contacts. It is the same reason a set of ignition points will burn out, unless itself protected by a condensor (capacitor).
In what failure mode will the diode have any useful effect? If it fails closed, battery current will be applied to the fan and it will run. There is no feedback to the A.C system. If current arcs across the contacts, (unlikely, since it goes through life holding back full battery voltage), all it will do is attempt to charge the battery--no feed back to the A.C system. To feed back, it would have to somehow get from the contact circuit to the coil tap inside the relay, which is a very improbable path given the physical arrangement of the relay. You can't compare relay contacts that cycle a few hundred times in their entire life to distributor contacts that cycle thousands of times a minute. In any case, the diode won't help this either--voltage still gets interrupted when the contacts open.

I am no electrical engineer, but I've been doing electrical work on cars for over forty years and I can't see any reason these diodes makes sense. My BMW has such a fan from the factory, and it does just fine with no diode--I just looked at the circuit diagram. There is just a relay.

Last edited by TheDurk; 12-14-2012 at 03:00 PM.
Old 12-14-2012, 03:33 PM
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glad to see this done I wanted to try it but wasnt sure it would work. I will be giving it a shot before summer returns.
Old 12-14-2012, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by TheDurk
In what failure mode will the diode have any useful effect? If it fails closed, battery current will be applied to the fan and it will run. There is no feedback to the A.C system. If current arcs across the contacts, (unlikely, since it goes through life holding back full battery voltage), all it will do is attempt to charge the battery--no feed back to the A.C system. To feed back, it would have to somehow get from the contact circuit to the coil tap inside the relay, which is a very improbable path given the physical arrangement of the relay. You can't compare relay contacts that cycle a few hundred times in their entire life to distributor contacts that cycle thousands of times a minute. In any case, the diode won't help this either--voltage still gets interrupted when the contacts open.

I am no electrical engineer, but I've been doing electrical work on cars for over forty years and I can't see any reason these diodes makes sense. My BMW has such a fan from the factory, and it does just fine with no diode--I just looked at the circuit diagram. There is just a relay.
this is just cheap insurance,a motor is a generator plain and simple so why not use a .10 cents diode if something goes wrong.
i remember that a few years ago i installed a mercury villager fan to my 93 4runner and it stop working a week after (no diodes) then i replaced the relays and sockets (with diodes included) it never fails again,so what was that? im not saying that is mandatory but due that we are no electrical engineers a 10 cents piece can save the day.
Old 09-07-2015, 09:49 AM
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UPDATE:
close to 3 years now from this mod and i have to say this one is the best,i have people asking why my 4runner a/c its so cold and why its gets so cold quickly inside the cab,well this little fan its the helper!!!!
in 3rd gens toyotas suv and pickups theres no condenser cooling system than the stock clutch fan so if your in stop and go situation theres not enough air flow to help the condenser do his work so thats when this little fan enters providing that constant airflow trough it making the condenser more efficient.also in 3rd gens theres an issue with broken evaporators due to constant pressure excess the system produce again the added little fan help reducing those peak pressures adding a greater lifespan to the evap and other components. well almost 3 years and counting!!!!
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