How to remove crankshaft bolt on AT?
 

I want to do my timing belt on my AutoTrans 2002 Tacoma with 3.4L engine. How do I go about removing the bolt on the crankshaft pulley? It looks like the flywheel is inaccessable.

thanks

Either an impact wrench, or use the starter. With the starter put a socket on the bolt, I find a deep 6-point one works best, attach a 24" breaker bar and brace the bar against the ground or the frame. The bar will try to turn clockwise when viewed from the front of the truck so make sure you brace it the right way. Then disconnect the ignition system and turn on the starter, just for a second. The bolt should come loose.

I just R&R'd my timing belt a couple of weeks ago. The easiest way seems to be to remove the radiator to have space to use an impact wrench on the crank bolt. I also used the impact to tighten the new crank bolt. Check the water pump for signs of weeping while you're in there. Mine had a little build-up of dried coolant at the weep hole, so I replaced it as well (130,000 miles, third timing belt)

There are lots of good methods around for this project. I followed the directions from Chilton's and referenced this website:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timing_belt/

I ended up using a long section of 2x6 plank by drilling two holes 3/8" with one 1/2" hole between them for my socket extension. Like the tool they fabricated on the website referenced above, I used two 3/8" drill bits to hold the pulley. It creaked like crazy, but it held until the crank pulley bolt busted loose. If your pulley was installed properly, it's over 200lbft of torque you have to generate. Tolerances are close in there, and I was a little hard on my radiator, so be careful.

Sorry about the double post - I've heard bad things about using an impact to re-tighten the crank pulley - factory specs should be around 217lbft, so you need a big fat torque wrench and maybe even a cheater bar to get it on right. There are lots of horror stories about crank bolts spinning out. Read this thread:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...t=crank+torque

Best of luck!

My bolt was too tight for the starter trick to work. And that doesn't solve the problem of how to tighten the bolt at reassembly. I used a strap wrench to hold the pulley. I bought it off of fleabay for $35 shipped. I bought the Reed brand rather than Rigid since they are less expensive (typically) and have a longer handle (24"). There are some on fleabay now:

http://cgi.ebay.com/REED-NO-SW24A-ST...QQcmdZViewItem

just did mine, I used a large spanner we had laying around the shop, bear in mind that using a strap wrench around the outside of the pulley can result in tearing the rubber damper between the pully and the hub

You can access flywheel trough a small panel on the back side of the engine (at least that was the case on my 1996 4Runner, 3.4L 4x4 AT).
I used big screwdriver and stuck it between teeth of the flywheel and engine housing (or transmission housing, can?t remember for sure it was about 3 years ago). I used that method for removing and installing crank pulley.
Also I did not have to compress the timing belt tensiner. Bolts that hold the tensioner are long enough to install it with out being compressed.

Here's how I'd do it:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...&postcount=102

Impact will be your best bet. simple and not so dangerous as other method.

Man, I wish I could fabricate! I haven't welded since Junior High School! :bang: As soon as I'm rich, I'm taking it up - sliders, bumpers, roll cages, skid plates, other stuff... that's the life.

Mt Goat put the best method up there - amd so did 4biker - who apparently searched and read up on this. There are numerous threads that include the info if you search timing belt, including my pic of a homemade tool using a 2x4 and bolts.

There is a tool specially made for holding the crank but it is expensive. Replicate this tool with wood and bolts or by welding and loosening and tightening the crank bolt to the proper torque will be easy. If you do not torque it properly, bad things will happen.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...ht=timing+belt

This thread has a pic of mine and good info - but you really should search some...

Thanks for all the responses. I'll probably try to make a wooden beam fasioned to adapt to the two holes in the front of the crank pulley wheel. That sounds like the safest option to me.

Hello,
I'm getting ready to do mine as well (96 Taco 3.4, 5 speed) am I missing something or with the manual tranny can't I just leave it in gear to hold the pulley in place for losening & tightening of the pulley bolt? Sounds too simple but is all of this discussion just for automatics trans? I have an impact gun, so I'm "thinking" [dangerous, I know] that I should be good to go...?

thanks,
biGjOhn

Yeah, I"ve heard that you manual tranny guys can get away with putting it in gear (I guess 5th gear works best). But I'd use a torque wrench for sure to insure the proper torque.

Sometimes that works; other times the bolt is on too tight and the engine turns over.

Rob

chain wrench and breaker bar, so you dont have to remove the radiator. thats what everyone uses here at the dealership.

Thanks guys,
I don't have a chain wrench but I do have 625 FtLb impact gun and a breaker bar & cheater pipe just in case. I am doing a 1.5" RB body lift on the truck at the same time, so will need to relocate the radiator anyway. Also replacing the hoses and flushing etc. too, so having it out of the way will alredy be nec. Doing a clutch at the same time as well, THANKFULLY I read up on the procedure here so that I now know to NOT remove the tranny before I break that crank pully bolt loose! I was going to get the tranny & T-case out first and do the T-belt, H2O pump etc. while the flywheel was in the machine shop, now I know to at least get as far as the pulley bolt first, then yank the tranny etc. - THANKS AGAIN YOTA TECH!

I think I will be ok with the impact, stick it in gear, have someone stmop the breaks for me... I can't see the clutch slipping and letting the engine turn over? Esp. over 200+ FtLbs of torque and with an impact wrench???

I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something? And yes, I do have the Craftsman 250 FtLb torque wrench to put it back on.

Thanks,
biGjOhn

If you can't weld just get a piece of steel plate about three feet long x3" wide or so and drill two holes for the bolts and a big one for the socket to fit through.
Bolt it to the pully and then when you go to break the nut let the bar rest on the area where the air box was. It will take some ass to break it. The good thing about having the bar that bolts to the pully is if you do get in a situation like not having the tranny to hold it for you, you can still put it on and take it off.

As for putting it back on you will need a big torque wrench that goes to at least the 218 ft/lb that the crank pully bolt needs. DO NOT use a cheater bar on a torque wrench, apply force to the grip only, or it will result in erroneous torque readings and may damage the tool. That also applies to using open end wrench type extensions that change the length of the torque wrench, they will also change the readings of the wrench.

Using a impact to remove the bolt would be fine but unless you have a torque impact tool, you shouldn't use it to tighten the bolt.

Yup, X2, I can weld but don't think I'll need to with the manual tranny. :bounce:

Yup, X2 again... have the craftsman 250 FtLb'er & would NEVER put a cheater on a torque wrench, DOH! It can also make a difference if the nut or bolt is clean, dirty, greasy etc. for some precision torque values. Probably NOT a concern on the this one though...

Yup, of course...

Thanks,
biGjOhn