how do you remove upper control arms? (ATS specifically)
 

I'm trying to replace the bushings on my inland trucks/ATS upper control arms. There is a long bolt that runs from one end of the control arm, through the bushings, and out the other end of the control arm. I removed the nut and disconnected the coilover (thinking this would relieve the stress on the bolt in question). However, there is still enough pressure on the bolt that I can't push it out.

Any tips?

I assume you disconnected the ball joint and the ABS line mounts from the arm also. I had to use a pry bar to get the bolt started on the way out but once it moved that first half inch it came out pretty easily. I had to kind of rock the bolt back and forth while pulling. I also had to remove my battery and a move a couple of modules for the bolt to come completely out.

No, I didn't disconnet the ball joint - the nut/cotter pin are long since rusted in place. Is that absolutely necessary?

This is quickly turning into a nightmare...

Hey Jackson... this sounds familiar. :) My truck spent the first 4 years of its life going through Chicago winters so, like yours, everything that moves is pretty well rusted.

You may need to disconnect the swaybar as well...

Umm, are you replacing the arms and going back to stock or??? The reason I ask is that if you can't get that upper ball out then you're not gonna be able to pull the arm clear. To get that ball out, I had to use a HUGE 3-legged puller. I broke two of the "3 ton" pullers that you can buy at the autoparts store trying to get it free.

Getting the ball back in is fun as well - it'll do a good job of spinning while you're tryign to get tension on the nut.

Oh... and when you do the driver's side, you may find that you'll have to pull the coolant overflow tank in order to get enough clearance for the bolt to come all the way out.

Take it to a 4wd shop or reputable mechanic... save the time and frustration. I like to do stuff myself but at times... it's better to pay someone. Just a thought... Good luck!!

Everything is back together... I can't get the damn thing apart. Not sure if it's worth having fixed or not, considering how little the truck is worth. There are a couple of interesting vehicles (a Sienna for the wife, I'd get her 05 4Runner, and an 05 tacoma) at the dealership coming off of dealer demo programs... I'll probably take a look at them tomorrow.

... ahh, I missed this point in the original post:Damn, I wish I wasn't 3000 miles away... I'd be over in a heartbeat.

If you decide to give it another shot, I would KEEP the shock connected and then use a floor jack under the lower ball joint. That's is how I do it... Lift the front end from under the lower ball joint with a floor jack. Pull the wheel, pull the sway bar, pull the ABS cable, then I loosen the nut on the A-arm, and the bolt slides out. The thing you have to watch out for is that when the bolt clears the front of the mount on the frame, the arm will want to fall to the outside since the spindle is still attached. It's a bit of weight, so I usually inch the bolt foreward a bit at a time by reaching in through the fender.

Ya' know... if those bushings are shot, I wonder if what you're fighting is that the bolt is rusting to the inner sleeve at some point and making it a nightmare to pull the bolt out?


Bummer... Sorry we couldn't make it happen Jackson.