How broken is my truck? Should I fix it? How do I sell as salvage?
08-20-2017, 09:45 PM
#1
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How broken is my truck? Should I fix it? How do I sell as salvage?
I know it's impossible to truly diagnose on description alone, but let's try.
The situation: 2003 Tacoma, 4WD, double cab, V6 with 254,000 miles. My rear diff has had a slow leak for 2 years; my mechanic thinks it's a cracked (or super rusty) housing, not the seal, but it's slow enough that we've never bothered to do more than check the fluid levels a couple times a year, and top it up. A month ago, the low speed whirring/high speed whining of an unbalanced wheel began. Mechanic says both rear wheel bearings are bad, but he doesn't have the tools to replace them properly. I said "why not do the whole rear end?" and he said "yeah, could be cheaper, and definitely easier". He's been searching for salvage parts, but no luck. Fast forward a month, to this week. Driving on highway, wheels whining as usual, and suddenly boom - loud grinding and smell of metal on metal. I still have drive train power, pull over immediately, have it towed home.
- What broke? Did one of the wheel bearing hubs finally explode? The truck doesn't visually lean to one side. Or did the rear diff finally die despite my vigilance? Note, there has not been any increase in leakage, but who knows what chaos may lurk inside.
- If the bearings are toast (best case scenario), and I fix them, I want to sell it before further issues. As a private buyer, how much would you want me to come down from KBB's "fair" condition price because of the leaking rear diff?
- If it's the bearings, but the axle(s) is/are pitted, do I replace them? Can I do just one? Should I not bother if I'm not going to replace the differential housing, too?
- If the diff is done, the truck is done. But I've never sold a salvage truck in otherwise fair condition - what should I expect to recoup selling it as salvage?
- It has a decent A.R.E. fiberglass cap that matches the color well. Would I make more selling the cap separately, or with the truck?
It's getting towed to a mechanic in a couple days, so place your bets now and we'll find out soon, but all advice is appreciated for these possible scenarios.
08-21-2017, 12:07 AM
#2
Without knowing just what went Kaboom hard to figure anything out .
Myself a truck that will not move under it`s own power to be able give it a good road test is not worth very much.
Just where the truck lived also comes into play. Last timing belt suspension and steering parts those kind of things
After finding out what is wrong just sell it in a As Is condition stating just what is wrong to the best of your ability .
Who knows about the cap some people love them I have no need of them
Myself a truck that will not move under it`s own power to be able give it a good road test is not worth very much.
Just where the truck lived also comes into play. Last timing belt suspension and steering parts those kind of things
After finding out what is wrong just sell it in a As Is condition stating just what is wrong to the best of your ability .
Who knows about the cap some people love them I have no need of them
08-22-2017, 05:46 AM
#4
Registered User
From the general sounds of it, the diff failed - probably due to a lack of oil. Probably due to a lack of fixing the seals.
Although it's not entirely clear from your description. Try jacking up each rear wheel and giving it some hard yanks/wiggles. If one has any real slack or movement to it, you've found a bad wheel bearing. It's possible that one completely failed.
If the diff failed it might still be turning but 'full of marbles'.
Don't know why a bad diff would be the end of the truck. We found an e-locker axle for my wife's 4Runner for $500 - an upgrade not a repair. Where are you going to get a known history 4WD Tacoma for $500?
That said, you know the history of this truck better than anyone else. And if you didn't fix a simple oil leak for years, maybe you know the rest of the truck is run down too.
I recently replaced both wheel bearings and seals on my '99. It has 219K miles on it. I have no doubts that I'll put another 100K on it at the bare minimum. Just keep up with basic maintenance and fix things that need to be fixed.
Although it's not entirely clear from your description. Try jacking up each rear wheel and giving it some hard yanks/wiggles. If one has any real slack or movement to it, you've found a bad wheel bearing. It's possible that one completely failed.
If the diff failed it might still be turning but 'full of marbles'.
Don't know why a bad diff would be the end of the truck. We found an e-locker axle for my wife's 4Runner for $500 - an upgrade not a repair. Where are you going to get a known history 4WD Tacoma for $500?
That said, you know the history of this truck better than anyone else. And if you didn't fix a simple oil leak for years, maybe you know the rest of the truck is run down too.
I recently replaced both wheel bearings and seals on my '99. It has 219K miles on it. I have no doubts that I'll put another 100K on it at the bare minimum. Just keep up with basic maintenance and fix things that need to be fixed.
08-23-2017, 04:59 AM
#6
Registered User
Due to the somewhat unusual way the Toyota differential is mounted in the axle, it *IS* shade-tree doable. The entire differential unit, pinion gear, ring gear, differential, is all in a removable housing. If you snag one at a junkyard you are not changing the bearing positions, settings, preload, anything. Just undoing a bunch of small bolts around the perimeter and pulling it out of the axle housing (after removing the drums/brake backing plates and pulling both axle shafts out a few inches).
In a more normal axle, the differential bolts individually into the housing, and the pinion does too, and replacing it is a finicky and exacting process, ensuring that the gears are properly positioned, have the proper clearances, and that the bearings have proper preloading. Not really a shade tree friendly process, not getting it right can lead to howling gears, bearings that self destruct in a short amount of time, etc.
But a Toyota removable third member? As mentioned above by Dropzone - it's an hour and a half to remove, hour and a half to replace. And the differential itself isn't going to cost much - it's the locker diffs that cost $$$.
In a more normal axle, the differential bolts individually into the housing, and the pinion does too, and replacing it is a finicky and exacting process, ensuring that the gears are properly positioned, have the proper clearances, and that the bearings have proper preloading. Not really a shade tree friendly process, not getting it right can lead to howling gears, bearings that self destruct in a short amount of time, etc.
But a Toyota removable third member? As mentioned above by Dropzone - it's an hour and a half to remove, hour and a half to replace. And the differential itself isn't going to cost much - it's the locker diffs that cost $$$.
08-23-2017, 11:13 AM
#7
I don't understand your mechanic, I do these things in my sleep. You probably junked the center section and filled the housing with metal. You can find a truck shop that can do it for a price. You can do it yourself with junk yard parts, or a combination of both.
My thoughts is to fix it, seems like its got some life left but is starting to show its age, and less than stellar maintenance.
My thoughts is to fix it, seems like its got some life left but is starting to show its age, and less than stellar maintenance.
