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Guide on How to Combine Both Front & Rear Antennas into One on an Aftermarket Stereo

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Old 02-17-2010, 03:31 PM
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LK1, I left my response over here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/p...ameras-193146/
Old 02-18-2010, 07:25 AM
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i'd like to see how to add a switch for the power antenna. What kind of switch did you use and where did you mount it? Any help would be useful and I assume you just spliced the ant power wire(blue)?
Old 02-23-2010, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by CLin9383
i'd like to see how to add a switch for the power antenna. What kind of switch did you use and where did you mount it? Any help would be useful and I assume you just spliced the ant power wire(blue)?
Sorry it took a while. I used a Radio Shack switch, part number 275-730, a $3 part. I spliced it to the blue power line from the head unit and stuck it under the cig lighter with double sided tape. There is a small hole there already so no drilling.


Last edited by nocalhoo; 02-23-2010 at 07:10 PM. Reason: forgot photo...
Old 02-23-2010, 07:57 PM
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awesome. i will have a weekend quickie project then! Thanks to you and rockslide!
Old 02-24-2010, 02:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Rock Slide
The diversity antenna is not in the left side rear cargo glass, it's in the passenger side rear cargo glass. Read post # 11. Your '01 should have it.
I think I saw some wiring on my passenger side trunk window. Looks like an antenna.
Interesting, my 2005 has only rear window antenna and nothing else. Would this mean that I can remove stucked motor antenna from my fender completly and put there a plug or something?
Old 02-24-2010, 04:16 AM
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Originally Posted by CLin9383
i'd like to see how to add a switch for the power antenna. What kind of switch did you use and where did you mount it? Any help would be useful and I assume you just spliced the ant power wire(blue)?
Like nocalhoo, I picked up my rocker switch from radio shack too. I chose Model: 275-693. Price: $2.99. Took out the center of the dash, cut my pwr antenna wire and spliced in new wiring. Then ran the pair of new wiring to my switch. I drilled a hole and mounted my switch here (not the best photo, but you get the idea

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Here's a photo of the actual switch. Model: 275-693. Price $2.99:

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Originally Posted by AlexJet
I think I saw some wiring on my passenger side trunk window. Looks like an antenna.
Interesting, my 2005 has only rear window antenna and nothing else. Would this mean that I can remove stucked motor antenna from my fender completly and put there a plug or something?
If you look on your passenger side glass cargo window, you should be able to see a bronze colored strip around the outside perimeter of the inside of the glass. (Should be able to feel it too as it's raised above the glass unless you've tinted over that window.) That's your rear antenna.

I don't see why you can't remove your stuck antenna motor for your front fender mounted antenna and just use the rear one instead. Although, you could replace the motor and use the fender antenna one day. In that case, I'd just install a switch as pictured above to cut the power that raises and lowers the antenna. At least that way, if you ever decide to use your fender antenna again one day, all you have to do is flip a switch...not install an all new motor.

Last edited by Rock Slide; 02-25-2010 at 04:45 AM.
Old 02-24-2010, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Rock Slide
If you look on your passenger side glass cargo window, you should be able to see a bronze colored strip around the outside perimeter of the inside of the glass. (Should be able to feel it too as it's raised above the glass unless you've tinted over that window.) That's your rear antenna.

I don't see why you can't remove your stuck antenna motor for your front fender mounted antenna and just use the rear one instead. Although, you could replace the motor and use the fender antenna one day. In that case, I'd just install a switch as pictured above to cut the power that raises and lowers the antenna. At least that way, if you ever decide to use your fender antenna again one day, all you have to do is flip a switch...not install an all new motor.
How do I know which wire is an antenna motor wire? Previous owner installed aftermarket radio and left a big mess there. He was powering subwoffer and amplifiers which he removed from the vehicle and cut some wires under the dash and some elsewhere as I have wiring going under the carpet, but know that they are not factory and have no idea where they finish. The radio wires does not have labels, probably removed by previous owner.
Old 02-24-2010, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by AlexJet
How do I know which wire is an antenna motor wire? Previous owner installed aftermarket radio and left a big mess there.
You should have a blue/white wire coming out of the aftermarket HU. This wire would be connected to your power antenna wire to make it function properly when the HU is on/off.
Old 02-24-2010, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Rock Slide
You should have a blue/white wire coming out of the aftermarket HU. This wire would be connected to your power antenna wire to make it function properly when the HU is on/off.
Are they always Blue/White wires on any radios? What color is the antenna wire from the truck side? I know usually radio wires are short, so I can try to trace it.
Old 02-24-2010, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by AlexJet
Are they always Blue/White wires on any radios? What color is the antenna wire from the truck side? I know usually radio wires are short, so I can try to trace it.
On aftermarket radios, the PA wire will either be blue only or blue/white.

This diagram may help. Wire out of the stock HU is red/black: http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/...emci/051aa.pdf


And if you ever need to match up colors when installing an aftermarket radio, here's a good reference: http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Toyota-Wiring.pdf
Old 02-24-2010, 09:35 PM
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Rock Slide,

Another question.

Did you buy a mounting kit or use the factory mounts for your head unit?

Thanks
Old 02-25-2010, 04:45 AM
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Factory mounts only
Old 02-25-2010, 11:05 AM
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Great. Thanks.
Old 03-03-2010, 12:13 PM
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Last edited by McLovin21; 03-03-2010 at 12:33 PM.
Old 03-11-2010, 07:15 PM
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Calling Rock Slide,

OK. So I spent the last few nights putting together the wiring harness for my Pioneer 4100. Have been reading up on the orange/white wire out of the Pioneer that controls dimming. I also read your writeup on the inclinometer and the problem you had with dimming. I then read somebody's dire warning that the orange wire would burn my truck to the ground

1. What wire did you tap to dim the head unit?

2. I bought the back up camera you recommended. I see it has 1 RCA jack for the camera and 1 red power plug in end. Am I right in assuming I have to cut off the power plug and seperate the power and ground? Did you connect the power plug from the camera to the remote output of the head unit?

3. Which wire did you splice the switch into to make the antenna go down?

Sorry for all the questions. trying to get this teed up to do this weekend.

Thanks
Old 03-12-2010, 05:08 AM
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I'd be interested to know how many of you who have done this mod typically listen to AM radio. That's my main station; the only time I flip over to FM is for Cowboys, Mavs, or Rangers games. I live in Fort Worth, but my station is in Dallas (about 30-40 miles away) and I usually have poorer reception when I'm around my house. My main concern is that if I do install an aftermarket HU, would I completely lose my ability to listen to my AM station?
Old 03-12-2010, 07:13 PM
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LK1-power antenna wire noted above-post #30 as blue-possibly blue white.

Held true for my Sony head unit-solid blue straight out of the Sony harness.

Interrupt the signal-(or power would be a better word) there-out of the head unit- run it to the "in" 12v volt side of 3 prong switch. Add a jumper wire (2nd prong of switch) back to the wiring harness and use that to feed power to the power antenna-the antenna side of the blue wire you just cut. 3rd prong is ground.

When the switch is left on-the head unit controls the antenna as normal-With the switch left off the antenna will stay retracted. Play with it a second before you stick it all back together.

I just did this and it works out great. As I travel to a fringe area or want really good AM reception (to sort of answer the gdutch question) and actually want the power antenna up I just flip the switch-otherwise the switch stays off and the antenna down in the fender.

Just hoping to save Rock Slide every question about Head units and power antenna switches.

I'm not touching the video stuff.
Old 03-12-2010, 07:39 PM
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Thanks Ron. Stupid question. Do I have to ground the antenna interupt switch? I assumed I could use a 2 prong switch and literally interupt just the power feed to the antenna.
Old 03-12-2010, 07:45 PM
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I doubt you would have to ground the switch or fuse the power coming to it, but both are good simple protection...
Old 03-12-2010, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by LK1
Calling Rock Slide,

OK. So I spent the last few nights putting together the wiring harness for my Pioneer 4100. Have been reading up on the orange/white wire out of the Pioneer that controls dimming. I also read your writeup on the inclinometer and the problem you had with dimming. I then read somebody's dire warning that the orange wire would burn my truck to the ground

1. What wire did you tap to dim the head unit?

2. I bought the back up camera you recommended. I see it has 1 RCA jack for the camera and 1 red power plug in end. Am I right in assuming I have to cut off the power plug and seperate the power and ground? Did you connect the power plug from the camera to the remote output of the head unit?

3. Which wire did you splice the switch into to make the antenna go down?

Sorry for all the questions. trying to get this teed up to do this weekend.

Thanks

To begin with, I still have not had time to play around w/ my Field Monitor wiring. Before I installed this Pioneer, the FM's display dimmed w/ my stock HU when I turned my headlights on. Worked great. After I installed the Pioneer HU, both the FM's display and HU's displayed dimmed when I turned my headlights on. However, during the day when my headlights are off, as soon as I shift into Drive, my HU's display dims as though my lights are on. If I depress the display on/off button on the FM and turn off its display, the HU comes back to full brightness.

This leads me to believe the new Pioneer draws much more current than my old stock HU did, thus both units cannot be at full brightness when the vehicle is under its heaviest load (i.e. while in drive). Of course, both units are at full brightness in every gear but drive.

So for the time being, I just turn my FM's display off during the day (so my HU will be at full brightness) and turn it back on at night. Granted I would like to have both units at full brightness during the day and still dim correctly when told to do so, but for now, I just deal with the way it is.


Oh and in case you need the online manual for the Pioneer 4100, here it is: http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchf...130avhp410.pdf


Ok, here's a pic of the orange/white wire off the pioneer HU:

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I don't remember the exact wire I connected this org/wht wire too, but I do know I connected it to the corresponding orange colored wire on my metra wiring harness. My HU dims just as it should when I turn my lights on. Just make sure you tap the corresponding dimming wire on your aftermarket wiring harness and you'll be fine.

On the camera issue, yes, you have to cut the pwr plug to run ground and power separate. Should a video plug w/ it too.

I ran the wiring for the cameras as such: Power wire from a relay, went to the swith, and then 4 separate power wires out to 4 cameras (2 of which are not yet installed)

Using this switch:

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Then ran the wiring as such:

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For the power antenna up/down feature, I cut the blue/white wire off the pioneer wiring harness in half. I then soldered 1ft of new wiring to one cut end of the blue/wht wire and ran the other end to a 2pronge switch. I then took another piece of 1ft wire and ran it out from the 2nd pronge on the switch and soldered it to the other cut end of the blue/white wire. By flipping the button on the switch, current breaks, thus the antenna does not raise. Flip the button back and current is re-established, thus the power antenna goes up.

Here's the switch I purchased at Radio Shack to operate the power antenna: Model: 275-693. Price $2.99:

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Originally Posted by gdutch
I'd be interested to know how many of you who have done this mod typically listen to AM radio. That's my main station; the only time I flip over to FM is for Cowboys, Mavs, or Rangers games. I live in Fort Worth, but my station is in Dallas (about 30-40 miles away) and I usually have poorer reception when I'm around my house. My main concern is that if I do install an aftermarket HU, would I completely lose my ability to listen to my AM station?
No AM listening here. I listen to 70% ipod and 30% FM.


Originally Posted by Ron Helmuth
LK1-power antenna wire noted above-post #30 as blue-possibly blue white.

Held true for my Sony head unit-solid blue straight out of the Sony harness.

Interrupt the signal-(or power would be a better word) there-out of the head unit- run it to the "in" 12v volt side of 3 prong switch. Add a jumper wire (2nd prong of switch) back to the wiring harness and use that to feed power to the power antenna-the antenna side of the blue wire you just cut. 3rd prong is ground.

When the switch is left on-the head unit controls the antenna as normal-With the switch left off the antenna will stay retracted. Play with it a second before you stick it all back together.

I just did this and it works out great. As I travel to a fringe area or want really good AM reception (to sort of answer the gdutch question) and actually want the power antenna up I just flip the switch-otherwise the switch stays off and the antenna down in the fender.

Just hoping to save Rock Slide every question about Head units and power antenna switches.

I'm not touching the video stuff.
LOL, thanks Ron. As mentioned above, a 2-pronge switch will suffice. All you need is a switch that will break the current when activated and regain current when deactivated.


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