Grab Handles
08-01-2017, 06:23 AM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Really stuck for now, and I worry they will be stripped soon since it's like a metric phillips. So my P2 is slightly small and a P3 is too big. I tried a hammer driver but don't want to pound on my A-pillar too much and crack my windshield.
08-01-2017, 06:35 AM
#4
My only advice would be to lean into the screwdriver as much as possible, then twist with sharp, sudden movements.
You can try putting a rubber band between the driver tip and screw head, that might take up some of the gap.
I had a similar issue with my filler neck. Worked out okay, but I broke one of the heads clean off.
Tip: Make sure you're twisting the correct way... I uh... I have made that mistake before...
You can try putting a rubber band between the driver tip and screw head, that might take up some of the gap.
I had a similar issue with my filler neck. Worked out okay, but I broke one of the heads clean off.
Tip: Make sure you're twisting the correct way... I uh... I have made that mistake before...
08-01-2017, 11:35 AM
#5
Registered User
Another shade tree trick - stick the screwdriver in the dirt, and then into the screw head. The slight bit of grit in the dirt will help the screwdriver hold in the slots.
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08-07-2017, 04:05 AM
#10
Registered User
Hit is with a hammer! Yes, use a punch or drift to whack it good with a hammer first, then try to unscrew. Better if you have a manual impact driver. By hitting it with a hammer you are shocking the bolt and hopefully breaking the stiction created by the metal corroding. Penetrating lube wouldn't hurt either.
08-07-2017, 07:21 AM
#11
Contributing Member
Thanks for this thread fierohink!
Because of you I went in knowing it might be annoying and like you, this screwdriver too big, that one too small. The screws wanted to strip out so quickly abandoned that idea and grabbed our cordless impact driver and driver bit.
Came right out. Those bolts have thread locker on them and all the other grab handles in my 96 did not. Mine are in perfect shape, no corrosion whatsoever.
The end.
Because of you I went in knowing it might be annoying and like you, this screwdriver too big, that one too small. The screws wanted to strip out so quickly abandoned that idea and grabbed our cordless impact driver and driver bit.
Came right out. Those bolts have thread locker on them and all the other grab handles in my 96 did not. Mine are in perfect shape, no corrosion whatsoever.
The end.
Last edited by habanero; 08-07-2017 at 07:23 AM.
08-07-2017, 09:10 PM
#12
Registered User
The real trick is to purchase a set of Japanese Industrial Standard screwdrivers. The Japanese have designed there own version of the phillips screw.
I struggled for years with American-style phillips screwdrivers. Using the JIS screwdrivers was a revelation. It really grabs without stripping by comparison.
I struggled for years with American-style phillips screwdrivers. Using the JIS screwdrivers was a revelation. It really grabs without stripping by comparison.
08-08-2017, 11:06 AM
#14
Registered User
James May had a nice 'slow TV' series where he reassembled various items ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/James_...he_Reassembler ).
On one of the shows he discussed the JIS screwdriver vs. the Phillips vs some other type (can't recall) and said the JIS worked *so* much better on Japanese screws.
On one of the shows he discussed the JIS screwdriver vs. the Phillips vs some other type (can't recall) and said the JIS worked *so* much better on Japanese screws.
10-04-2017, 08:13 AM
#15
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I know this is a bit late to help the OP, but I'll write it anyway so as to help those who are wondering about the grab bar screws.
Several years ago I tried to remove the two screws holding the driver's side grab bar. The screws are recessed about 1/2 an inch down inside the grab bar. I couldn't move the steering wheel far enough down to allow me to use my hammer and impact driver, so I tried it with regular screwdrivers to no avail. I eventually rounded out the star slot in the screw's head and I gave up.
Then several years later I tried again using a drill and a small easy-out. I managed to drill about 1/2 an inch into the center of the screw and so I stuck the easy-out into the hole and carefully began to extract the screw. The easy-out broke, so now I am left with a case-hardened easy out right in the center of the screw. No way I can "drill out" that case-hardened stub and no way can I use a dremel grinder wheel to grind a slot into the screw head and easy-out. There just isn't enough room due to the diameter of the grinding wheel. So much for the driver's side grab bar until I, in great desperation, remove the steering wheel (which I don't plan on doing. Ever.)
Last year I had to string some wires from my rear view mirror down to the lower dash so I went to the passenger side. Again, using the same big screwdriver that screwed up the driver's side screws. This time I was able to get the screws to turn maybe 1 or 2 degrees CCW. Then I tightened them up again, and turned the screws CCW. I repeated this several times (maybe 8 - 10 times), each time the screws reversed out a tiny bit more. After about 1/2 hour I was able to get them both out. Whew!!
My advice when attempting to remove the driver's side screws is to remove the steering wheel to allow access the grab bar mounting screws straight-on. Next, use a new, well-fitting screwdriver (JIS?) with a lot of pressure against the screw head and slowly back the screw out just enough so that they move. Then screw them back in, and then back out again. Repeat until they come out. You must work them back and forth to get them loose.
If I had removed the steering wheel and had access to an air-driven impact wrench, I would have tried that first.
Several years ago I tried to remove the two screws holding the driver's side grab bar. The screws are recessed about 1/2 an inch down inside the grab bar. I couldn't move the steering wheel far enough down to allow me to use my hammer and impact driver, so I tried it with regular screwdrivers to no avail. I eventually rounded out the star slot in the screw's head and I gave up.
Then several years later I tried again using a drill and a small easy-out. I managed to drill about 1/2 an inch into the center of the screw and so I stuck the easy-out into the hole and carefully began to extract the screw. The easy-out broke, so now I am left with a case-hardened easy out right in the center of the screw. No way I can "drill out" that case-hardened stub and no way can I use a dremel grinder wheel to grind a slot into the screw head and easy-out. There just isn't enough room due to the diameter of the grinding wheel. So much for the driver's side grab bar until I, in great desperation, remove the steering wheel (which I don't plan on doing. Ever.)
Last year I had to string some wires from my rear view mirror down to the lower dash so I went to the passenger side. Again, using the same big screwdriver that screwed up the driver's side screws. This time I was able to get the screws to turn maybe 1 or 2 degrees CCW. Then I tightened them up again, and turned the screws CCW. I repeated this several times (maybe 8 - 10 times), each time the screws reversed out a tiny bit more. After about 1/2 hour I was able to get them both out. Whew!!
My advice when attempting to remove the driver's side screws is to remove the steering wheel to allow access the grab bar mounting screws straight-on. Next, use a new, well-fitting screwdriver (JIS?) with a lot of pressure against the screw head and slowly back the screw out just enough so that they move. Then screw them back in, and then back out again. Repeat until they come out. You must work them back and forth to get them loose.
If I had removed the steering wheel and had access to an air-driven impact wrench, I would have tried that first.
