FIXED!! Stupid PLASTIC clutch pedal bushing
10-12-2003, 01:41 PM
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FIXED!! Stupid PLASTIC clutch pedal bushing
As seen here I've found a permanent solution to the dumb ass PLASTIC clutch pedal return bushing.
Go to True Value hardware, and pay $1.60 for a #70 spring. Also acceptable is a Toyota brake pedal return spring.
Remove the 4 philips screws holding in the gas and hood levers first and push the levers out towards the firewall. Then remove the lower panel as shown in Bob's writeup (Thanks Bob). And be sure to detach the Clutch Start Cancel switch connector, as well as any other electrical connectors on the lower panel. Don't be concerned that Bob's photo shows an automatic.
Continue to remove the ac duct as Bob describes.
Now look at photo #2 below. On the main dash beam is a welded bracket holding a wiring harness. This bracket is L shaped, and on the other leg of the L is a hole, perfectly inline to accept a linear spring between it and the clutch pedal pin, similar to how the brake pedal return spring is attached.
Remove the original torsion spring. There is quite a bit of tension on this. I placed a few rags around it and pryed it out with a big ass screwdriver. BOING!
Attach #70 spring between dash beam bracket hole and clutch pedal pin. Replace duct and lower panel.
No more stupid plastic bushing crap.
p.s. Free to good home....4 plastic clutch bushings.
Go to True Value hardware, and pay $1.60 for a #70 spring. Also acceptable is a Toyota brake pedal return spring.
Remove the 4 philips screws holding in the gas and hood levers first and push the levers out towards the firewall. Then remove the lower panel as shown in Bob's writeup (Thanks Bob). And be sure to detach the Clutch Start Cancel switch connector, as well as any other electrical connectors on the lower panel. Don't be concerned that Bob's photo shows an automatic.
Continue to remove the ac duct as Bob describes.Now look at photo #2 below. On the main dash beam is a welded bracket holding a wiring harness. This bracket is L shaped, and on the other leg of the L is a hole, perfectly inline to accept a linear spring between it and the clutch pedal pin, similar to how the brake pedal return spring is attached.
Remove the original torsion spring. There is quite a bit of tension on this. I placed a few rags around it and pryed it out with a big ass screwdriver. BOING!
Attach #70 spring between dash beam bracket hole and clutch pedal pin. Replace duct and lower panel.
No more stupid plastic bushing crap.
p.s. Free to good home....4 plastic clutch bushings.
10-12-2003, 07:04 PM
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I must say, pretty damn clever. How does it "feel" as compared to the stock setup? Also, worst case scenario, what's the worst thing that might happen if you go this route?
Bob
Bob
10-12-2003, 09:38 PM
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As far as feel is concerned, the difference is negligible. The #70 spring has just slightly weaker spring rate than OEM torsion setup. Since all it does is keep the pedal up the last 1/2 inch or so, pppffffttttttt.
Interestingly enough, the factory brake pedal return spring feels almost identical to the torsion spring, and fits, too.
Considering that the little bracket is strong enough, has an appropriate hole, is in alignment with the clutch push rod pin, and that pin has a groove in it to accept a spring end, it's as though Toyota originally designed it to use a duplicate brake pedal return spring, similar to my 1st Gen. But somewhere along the line decided to get creative, and that something more complicated, expensive, and prone to failure was needed. Keeps the dealership service department in business, I guess. Planned obsolescence use not to be a Toyota characteristic.
As far as 'the worst which could happen', the only thing which could result in damage was my pry bar tactic to remove the factory torsion spring. It let loose with a big BOING, but the rags stuffed around it padded everything just fine.
I see nothing but good about using a linear spring, and, in the past, Toyota has relied upon them quite successfully, and still thinks they are good enough for the brake pedal return. Just get one with correct length, and which has enough coils on it such that it does not over stretch and deform with full pedal extension. The True Value #70 is perfect.
Nothing is damaged in the process, so changing back to the stupid ass plastic bushing and torsion spring is always an option.
Free to good home(s): 4 plastic spring bushings. If nobody claims them soon, I will burn them in effigy.
Interestingly enough, the factory brake pedal return spring feels almost identical to the torsion spring, and fits, too.
Considering that the little bracket is strong enough, has an appropriate hole, is in alignment with the clutch push rod pin, and that pin has a groove in it to accept a spring end, it's as though Toyota originally designed it to use a duplicate brake pedal return spring, similar to my 1st Gen. But somewhere along the line decided to get creative, and that something more complicated, expensive, and prone to failure was needed. Keeps the dealership service department in business, I guess. Planned obsolescence use not to be a Toyota characteristic.
As far as 'the worst which could happen', the only thing which could result in damage was my pry bar tactic to remove the factory torsion spring. It let loose with a big BOING, but the rags stuffed around it padded everything just fine.
I see nothing but good about using a linear spring, and, in the past, Toyota has relied upon them quite successfully, and still thinks they are good enough for the brake pedal return. Just get one with correct length, and which has enough coils on it such that it does not over stretch and deform with full pedal extension. The True Value #70 is perfect.
Nothing is damaged in the process, so changing back to the stupid ass plastic bushing and torsion spring is always an option.
Free to good home(s): 4 plastic spring bushings. If nobody claims them soon, I will burn them in effigy.
10-12-2003, 10:15 PM
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Unhappy,
Great explanation, thank you. I may consider doing what you did if my plastic bushing doesn't last more than 6 months.
About those bushings, I'd love to take them from you. If you have paypal, I can send you postage funds. I just need your account id or your snail mail addy and I can send you a check.
Thanks,
Bob
Great explanation, thank you. I may consider doing what you did if my plastic bushing doesn't last more than 6 months.
About those bushings, I'd love to take them from you. If you have paypal, I can send you postage funds. I just need your account id or your snail mail addy and I can send you a check.
Thanks,
Bob
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10-13-2003, 01:09 AM
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Excellent! I had no idea the earlier trucks had a return spring for the clutch. Great to know that it still feels like stock. I hope this really turns out to be a long term fix (all of the 5-speed Tacoma guys will love you).
Looks like I'll be making a trip to True Value soon. My current clutch pedal bushing is set to go and occasionally is giving me a warning squeak.
If Bob is willing to forego one of your extra bushings, I'd appreciate one. I might need to put a new bushing in for the time being.
Let me know if that's okay (Bob too), I can cover shipping with paypal or a check, your choice.
Looks like I'll be making a trip to True Value soon. My current clutch pedal bushing is set to go and occasionally is giving me a warning squeak.
If Bob is willing to forego one of your extra bushings, I'd appreciate one. I might need to put a new bushing in for the time being.
Let me know if that's okay (Bob too), I can cover shipping with paypal or a check, your choice.
10-13-2003, 11:32 AM
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Wow that sounds like a great fix! My pedal as been squeaking for far toooo long I am sure I trashed the bushing and most of the metal around it too. I think I am going to do this fix this weekend and see how it goes, thanks a lot for posting.
10-13-2003, 01:29 PM
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My pedal squeeked in 2001, just before the 36,000 mile warranty was up ( October 1998 to October 2001 ), they put in an entierly new assembly and it's been fine.
Now I'm at 66K so I assume I got a new and improved part but I do have 4 of those bushings on hand just in case.
I know 99's had the defective pedal, but I think they may have worked out the issues by 2001.
Now I'm at 66K so I assume I got a new and improved part but I do have 4 of those bushings on hand just in case.
I know 99's had the defective pedal, but I think they may have worked out the issues by 2001.
Last edited by sschaefer3; 10-13-2003 at 01:30 PM.
10-13-2003, 05:37 PM
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sschaefer, yes Toyota fixed this in the 01 year, at least on 4Runners. All U.S. 4Runners 2001 and up come only with slushboxes, no little cheesy bushings required. Regarding your particular fix, by now yours is probably disintegrating, and you've got about 2 weeks left before it squeeks.
3.4 wrote: (all of the 5-speed Tacoma guys will love you).
Lets not go there.
The love from just one Taco girl would be enough.
Ok, here's why a torsion spring was used: As the clutch is depressed, the torsion spring rotates in a compound fashion. At first, the pedal increases in stiffness, but as the pedal nears the floor the pedal effort lightens, due to the torsion spring rotating on a secondary axis and now helping push the pedal in. As such, a linear spring does not feel quite the same as the torsion setup. The linear spring simply increases in effort to the floor. This could be inconvenient depending on how much stop and go traffic you're in, or if you wait at stoplights with the clutch depressed, which is poor clutch technique, but we all can't be perfect.
Is the pedal effort too high without the torsion help? Not IMO, but I weigh 180 and can walk up stairs. 30 minutes of Denver stop/go in a diesel F450 kinda wears on me though.
There is no harm installing a linear spring in place of the torsion and trying it out for a week. You can always change back if you don't like it.
3.4 and Bob:
Please use my profile link to send me an email (not PM) with your shipping addresses. Don't worry about postage, it is insignificant. I'll send Bob 2 bushings, 3.4 gets 1 and the last is going to another. Although I do have complete confidence you all will find them obsolete.
More details!
The torsion spring arm mildly contacts the linear spring just before full pedal depression, resultng in a barely audible twang.
Solution: a few dabs of heavy grease along the spring coils, particularly where the arm meets the spring and presto! Silent as a Mafia snitch. A piece of rubber vaccuum hose could also be stretched over the torsion fork end to silence the spring contact.
3.4 wrote: (all of the 5-speed Tacoma guys will love you).
Lets not go there.
The love from just one Taco girl would be enough.Ok, here's why a torsion spring was used: As the clutch is depressed, the torsion spring rotates in a compound fashion. At first, the pedal increases in stiffness, but as the pedal nears the floor the pedal effort lightens, due to the torsion spring rotating on a secondary axis and now helping push the pedal in. As such, a linear spring does not feel quite the same as the torsion setup. The linear spring simply increases in effort to the floor. This could be inconvenient depending on how much stop and go traffic you're in, or if you wait at stoplights with the clutch depressed, which is poor clutch technique, but we all can't be perfect.
Is the pedal effort too high without the torsion help? Not IMO, but I weigh 180 and can walk up stairs. 30 minutes of Denver stop/go in a diesel F450 kinda wears on me though.
There is no harm installing a linear spring in place of the torsion and trying it out for a week. You can always change back if you don't like it.
3.4 and Bob:
Please use my profile link to send me an email (not PM) with your shipping addresses. Don't worry about postage, it is insignificant. I'll send Bob 2 bushings, 3.4 gets 1 and the last is going to another. Although I do have complete confidence you all will find them obsolete.
More details!
The torsion spring arm mildly contacts the linear spring just before full pedal depression, resultng in a barely audible twang.
Solution: a few dabs of heavy grease along the spring coils, particularly where the arm meets the spring and presto! Silent as a Mafia snitch. A piece of rubber vaccuum hose could also be stretched over the torsion fork end to silence the spring contact.
Last edited by Unhappy99; 10-13-2003 at 08:26 PM.
10-13-2003, 05:47 PM
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Originally posted by sschaefer3
I know 99's had the defective pedal, but I think they may have worked out the issues by 2001.
I know 99's had the defective pedal, but I think they may have worked out the issues by 2001.
10-13-2003, 05:52 PM
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Originally posted by keisur
the '98's had that prob too. I've replaced mine 3 times already. Anybody got a picture of this "slushbox" jobby?
the '98's had that prob too. I've replaced mine 3 times already. Anybody got a picture of this "slushbox" jobby?
10-13-2003, 06:20 PM
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Well done.
That is exactly how the clutch pedal spring is on the 1st gen. I helped replace the clutch, master, and slave cylinders that that spring thing you came up with is exactly how it was on that 1st gen.
Gadget
www.GadgetOnline.com
That is exactly how the clutch pedal spring is on the 1st gen. I helped replace the clutch, master, and slave cylinders that that spring thing you came up with is exactly how it was on that 1st gen.
Gadget
www.GadgetOnline.com
10-13-2003, 06:23 PM
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Originally posted by Unhappy99
'Slushbox' is an endearing term for an automatic transmission, generally used by manual transmission snobs such as myself.
'Slushbox' is an endearing term for an automatic transmission, generally used by manual transmission snobs such as myself.
10-22-2003, 12:21 PM
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If that ONE last bushing isn't claimed, I'd love to take it off your hand. I think i try this one bushing then try the spring idea if the bushing fails again...
You've got email!
You've got email!
10-22-2003, 04:54 PM
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Hey guys----
Does this clutch pedal bushing apply to 2nd gens, or only to 3rd gens? My clutch pedal squeaks when I depress it and am wondering if it is something I should be concerned about.
Thanks,
Chris
Does this clutch pedal bushing apply to 2nd gens, or only to 3rd gens? My clutch pedal squeaks when I depress it and am wondering if it is something I should be concerned about.
Thanks,
Chris
10-22-2003, 04:59 PM
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if it's a tiny little squeek, it's the little plastic bushing going out...same with mine
Was that in response to my reply? If so, then it does apply to 2nd gens.
10-23-2003, 11:29 AM
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Wow! Great find Unhappy! My clutch squeak comes and goes, but when it comes it's so loud and annoying. At least I got my 4Runner while they still had a clutch! I've been dreading the thought of having to do regular bushing changes. I'm definately going to give this fix a try.
10-23-2003, 04:26 PM
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Originally posted by 3.4Runner
(all of the 5-speed Tacoma guys will love you).
(all of the 5-speed Tacoma guys will love you).
Seriously - I have one of those bushings sitting here waiting to go on my '98 Tacoma. I have over 100,000 miles on it and haven't replaced it yet, but it has been squeaking for a loooong time.
Thank you mister Unhappy
As far as I know, the assembly did get changed on the newer generation Tacomas, and the dealer fix is to replace the entire pedal assembly with one of the newer ones. Too much $$ for me. I like the True Value spring better!
10-24-2003, 06:34 AM
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Originally posted by BajaTaco
Seriously - I have one of those bushings sitting here waiting to go on my '98 Tacoma. I have over 100,000 miles on it and haven't replaced it yet, but it has been squeaking for a loooong time.
Seriously - I have one of those bushings sitting here waiting to go on my '98 Tacoma. I have over 100,000 miles on it and haven't replaced it yet, but it has been squeaking for a loooong time.
10-27-2003, 08:28 AM
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DONE! 
Here's to you Unhappy 
I did this fix this weekend and it worked great. It also went very quickly since you don't have to put that rediculous spring back in.
This is what I noticed. The concept of the original spring making the clutch easier to push in as you get closer to the floorboard is barely noticeable. The spring rate on the new spring is so low that any increase in resistance as the clutch gets closer to the floorboard in not noticeable. The result is that there is no descernable difference in the performance of the clutch other than the lack of certain annoying frequencies.
Also if you are considering using a brake pedal return spring rather than the #70 spring I would advise against it. You can see in the picture that Unhappy posted that the new spring passes through an opening in a bracket that supports the old spring. There is very little clearance between the bracket and the spring with this fix. The larger diameter of the brake spring would definately contact this bracket. Of course, if this is a once for all fix, then you could just cut off that part of the bracket. This would also make the 4Runner lighter and could result in an additional 40 HP.
Gas to get to ACE: $1.00
New spring: $3.00
Getting rid of stupid,
annoying clutch squeak: PRICELESS!
Here's to you Unhappy I did this fix this weekend and it worked great. It also went very quickly since you don't have to put that rediculous spring back in.
This is what I noticed. The concept of the original spring making the clutch easier to push in as you get closer to the floorboard is barely noticeable. The spring rate on the new spring is so low that any increase in resistance as the clutch gets closer to the floorboard in not noticeable. The result is that there is no descernable difference in the performance of the clutch other than the lack of certain annoying frequencies.
Also if you are considering using a brake pedal return spring rather than the #70 spring I would advise against it. You can see in the picture that Unhappy posted that the new spring passes through an opening in a bracket that supports the old spring. There is very little clearance between the bracket and the spring with this fix. The larger diameter of the brake spring would definately contact this bracket. Of course, if this is a once for all fix, then you could just cut off that part of the bracket. This would also make the 4Runner lighter and could result in an additional 40 HP.
Gas to get to ACE: $1.00
New spring: $3.00
Getting rid of stupid,
annoying clutch squeak: PRICELESS!
11-10-2003, 05:58 AM
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Toyota Man of the Year Goes To....
Unhappy 99!!!!
I cannot explain how awesome this fix is! Not only could my Toyota dealer not figure it out but the ease and cost at which this replacement procedure is had me doing cartwheels afterwards. Seriously, I've had this problem for over a year now (on and off).
Yesterday, I couldn't take the squeaking anymore and thought I'd give this fix a try.
After about an hour and a half....done! Mind you, I am no mechanic (never even taken off my lower panel on the drivers side before ). And I don't feel any noticeable difference in tension and feel
The one thing that I would really pay attention to is dislodging the original spring. It is really in there tight and will require a good deal of effort to remove....be very careful when removing it as it will pop out with a great deal of force. Use Unhappy99's method of wrapping a towel around the original spring while using a screwdriver (or some other device) to dislodge it -
For some reason, tt also took me a few minutes to find that little hole on the L bracket too
Here is a quick recap:
Store: The Great Ace Hardware
Part: Handi-Pack Extension Spring - Part #88103 (5 X7/16) w/ .047 wire diameter. There was no #70 spring
Price: $1.99
Time: About 2 1/2 hours total. Stepped in the garage at 3:03 pm....stepped back in the house at 5:43 pm (includes test drive). Anyone else could do this in less than an hour.
This has made my day, week and month! Unhappy99....thanks for putting this one out there. Truly amazing!!
Hans
97 4 Runner SR5 4x4 5 speed
I cannot explain how awesome this fix is! Not only could my Toyota dealer not figure it out but the ease and cost at which this replacement procedure is had me doing cartwheels afterwards. Seriously, I've had this problem for over a year now (on and off).
Yesterday, I couldn't take the squeaking anymore and thought I'd give this fix a try.
After about an hour and a half....done! Mind you, I am no mechanic (never even taken off my lower panel on the drivers side before
). And I don't feel any noticeable difference in tension and feelThe one thing that I would really pay attention to is dislodging the original spring. It is really in there tight and will require a good deal of effort to remove....be very careful when removing it as it will pop out with a great deal of force. Use Unhappy99's method of wrapping a towel around the original spring while using a screwdriver (or some other device) to dislodge it -
For some reason, tt also took me a few minutes to find that little hole on the L bracket too
Here is a quick recap:
Store: The Great Ace Hardware
Part: Handi-Pack Extension Spring - Part #88103 (5 X7/16) w/ .047 wire diameter. There was no #70 spring
Price: $1.99
Time: About 2 1/2 hours total. Stepped in the garage at 3:03 pm....stepped back in the house at 5:43 pm (includes test drive). Anyone else could do this in less than an hour.
This has made my day, week and month! Unhappy99....thanks for putting this one out there. Truly amazing!!
Hans
97 4 Runner SR5 4x4 5 speed
Last edited by Solo; 11-10-2003 at 06:00 AM.
