Figure This One Out
 

Last year I had my front end pulled and afterward noticed that the parking brake handle was loose and non functioning. So I ordered a replacement cable and went about replacing the old one today. The thing is the old one is not snapped, and also I tightened the tension adjuster to where it should be and still the parking brake won't stop the car. Then I had someone pull on the brake handle while I looked at the cable by the rear wheels and the cable is moving but it's not pulling on the bellcranks very much, for what it's worth.

If the cable is not snapped, and the tension is adjusted to spec, why isn't it stopping my car?

I'm perplexed!

I also want to add that, even after adjusting the cable to the proper tension, when the handle is down it's very loose and bounces slightly when I hit bumps.

Cable is stretched

Is there any possibility that the bell cranks are frozen? Because I adjust the tension to spec which means pulling up on the handle creates the appropriate amount of tension, but when the handle is back down there's no tension and it's loose. Seems to me that the bell crank would be stuck in a forward position causing tension when the handle's up but slack in the cable when the handle's down because the bell cranks don't return back to their neutral position (when the handle's down). Not sure if this is the case yet, I'll have to check tomorrow.

I hope this makes sense, hard to explain clearly on here.

Have you lifted up the rear end and pulled off the drums to see what is going on?

crazypaint: If the cable was stretched, wouldn't me tightening it up compensate for that stretch? Correct me if I'm wrong, I'm by no means a pro mechanic.

tommy: I haven't yet because I was working under the assumption that the cable was snapped up until just before I started this thread. Tomorrow I will see if the bell cranks are stuck and look inside the drums. I just had them off last week when I replaced a leaking wheel cylinder but didn't pay much attention to the cable.

I remember the cable was definitely well attached to the shoe, though

Be nice to know just what your working on???

If the shoes are not adjusted correct it will not work either.

If the cable gets tight and it does not hold it will be seized bell cranks if you have them or adjustment.:welder:

Hey wyoming, my bad it's an '00 3.4 4wd 4runner. Doesn't the parking cable actually adjust the shoes though? That's the main reason I'm actually bothering with replacing it, so the brakes can be adjusted properly. I'm having some pedal issues and want to rule out out-of-adjustment shoes before I change the master cylinder.

The cable holds on my runner because it clicks into place as you pull up the handle.

Yes, a working parking brake is needed for the rear brake auto-adjusters to work. It is very common for the bellcranks to seize up, especially in the salt belt. Here is the best fix-it write-up I have seen, courtesy of our Tundra brethren:

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...ank-repair.pdf

Thanks a lot durk, that write up is extremely helpful. My bell crank is so caked in rust it's unreal. Took me forever just to get the bell crank pin at the end of the parking cable out. In the process, the bell crank arm got bent. So, now I at least need a new arm.

The pivot pin inside is so bad too that using a hammer is the only way to get the arm to pivot, and it barely does. Using my hand, I have no chance of doing it. And this is all after spraying penetrating oil inside the boot. Hopefully the oil will be a bit more effective on the other one.

I still don't know how this became an issue right after I had my front end pulled...

All I can say is the truck must have sat long enough for the pins to seize up.

If the shoes are not adjusted up correct to start once it is all fixed .

The pedal issues are from it not working and the brakes not adjusting up.

I just remove the bell crank (this is the arm) from the bracket with a cut off disc. New Bell crank Bracket and new pin

I put all new parts in then when I ever I change the brake shoes:fire2:

There's not much use for the parking brake out here in Chicago, so it really didn't get much use. But I didn't notice the loose handle, when it was in the down position until after I got my car back from the body shop and I think it just dawned on me right now:

The bell cranks were probably well rusted into the rest position when I brought it to the shop. They probably put the parking brake on when they worked on the car, which would have pulled the bell cranks forward. Since they were probably already bad when I brought them in they must have stuck in the forward position causing slack in the cable and a loose handle when it's down.

Finally makes sense...still had to drop $100 today to get new crank arms and brackets, though. Oh well, such is life in the rust belt

you will need to do this to keep them from rusting out

a) use the handbrake a lot when parking, like, all the time
b) slobber brake grease inside the boot every few months

otherwise they will get water in them and eventually rot shut again....