Driver's window is stuck
 

So I took my 224,000 mile Tacoma off road for the first time ever today and it thanked me by breaking the driver's side window. I rolled it up so my wife could make a phone call, and it decided not to go back down.

It's not rocket science, I'm just wondering if there's a common part failure or not. Motor, regulator, relay, fuse (which would affect both sides I think though)....? Any other ideas?

cant help ya with your question..but both the windows on my '86(manual windows) are pretty hard to roll up or down...ONLY when the humidity is like 90%<...or when its raining...or at the carwash..

so whenever there is an abundance of water..my windows wont hardly roll up or down..lol kinda weird if ya ask me

Just take the door panel apart, and give it a good looking over. Chances are the motor has failed, or the switch has failed. Easiest way is to take the panel off, and bypass the system by running power direct to the motor. If it doesn't move (don't forget to try switching the polarities ;) ) you know its the motor. If it does, you have another problem.

Im guessing its power windows because you said motor relay and fuse lol.

Do you hear any "click" when you hit the button?

Ok, took the panel off, and figured I'd take the switch inside and look it over/check continuity first because... well it's hot in the garage and it's cold in the house. I don't have continuity to pin #6 in the plug under any circumstances. So I smelled it.... yep, smells like burnt electronics (That would explain what I thought was burning clutch smell once I rolled the window up). So... I pulled the plastic cover off and this is what I found:

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y23...a/IMG_5965.jpg

The hell would have caused this? I want to temp fix it with a jumper, but I don't want to risk causing a bigger problem. I can't tell if it was fine until now, or if it was actually broken before and just resting against the other side which cause some arcing. I'm leaning toward the latter. It was actually bent down and touching down where the burned area is. I'm pretty confused because I don't know what would have caused this. I figured it would blow some fuse somewhere before it would burn this up.

225k miles would cause that ;)

Looks like a corrosion problem, juse get a used switch and be done with it.

It's just odd that everything else in the switch looks almost new. There's no other corrosion anywhere. Wierd. I temp fixed it and will look for a new (used) switch. New ones are $300 :(

you should pm deathcougar what the pricing for a used one considering he works for a toyota yard.