Crank Pulley can't remove
 

This may be a little off normal topic. I have a Toyota 1987 4 cyl, 2000 Engine, I am wondering how much torque is required to loosen the nut that holds the crank pulley on. I've got a 7 foot breaker bar and I still can't bust it loose. I checked with my torque wrench and the highest rating I got was 150 Lbs, which is as high as my wrench goes. Anyway even with a 7 foot breaker bar, I haven't been able to loosen it yet. Those threads aren't reverse ae they? Thanks in advance for the help! Skip

I can't really answer but I think I remember reading about this on POR . Search for crank pulley and you should find something. As I recall it had something to do with setting up the wrench on the nut and cranking the starter motor. :confused: Sounds scarry to me.

I think I found it.

POR thread

Yep, set the breaker bar against the frame rail and briefly crank the starter. Make sure you disable the ignition first so that you don't accidentally start it. If you use 3/8ths sockets be ready to break a few, you'll want to use at least a 1/2" drive 6-point socket for this.

Get a six sided 19mm 1/2 drive socket and a 18"+ breaker bar. Put the breaker bar on the under side of the passanger side frame rail. Pull and ground the ignition coil wire and all the spark plugs ( this prevents a vacuum from developing). Turn the key to start in a few quick bursts. Check the bolt.

Make sure the breaker bar is snug on the frame rail, if not likely bend the breaker bar.

This works really well form me. My manual has the torque specs. @ 120 for this bolt.

way better than wreslting with a 4' extention and the chance of stripping/shearing the bolt. The gearing on the starter is very low.

Nathan

1985 22R

There are all kinds of tricks to get the pulley bolt off. What is more important is how to reinstall it to the proper torque.

The proper way to remove and reinstall the pulley bolt is to use the SST that will properly hold the pulley still while you apply sufficent torque to the pulley bolt.

It has a plate that bolts to the pulley and a long bar that connects to it. That will give you sufficent leverage to remove and reinstall the pulley bolt without causing other damage to the engine.

The SST is sold through OTC and I have a link to them on my links page.

If you don't properly reinstall the pulley bolt to the proper torque that bolt can back out and that will allow the pulley do disengage from the woodruff key and spin on the nose of the crank shaft and destroy it. There have been several engines that this has happened to and it usually presents shortly after a timing belt change because the pulley bolt was not properly torqued.

Do yourself a favor and get the proper tool for the job so you won't end up wrecking the engine. The tool is not very expensive at all and will save you a lot of heart ach down the road.

Gadget

www.GadgetOnline.com