antenna fix for limited-no fender flare removal needed
02-23-2006, 05:10 AM
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antenna fix for limited-no fender flare removal needed
Hello,
I am posting this for those, who like me; search this forum for DIY answers. Recently, I was looking for information on how to fix the power antenna. I found the following write-up: http://www.4runners.org/articles/whip/
After reading this write-up I tried to remove my fender flare but it was harder than I thought it would be. So, I started searching for answers on how to remove the fender flare. I found the following thread: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/removal-limited-flares-25038/
In this thread someone writes,
“Thought I would add a new members .02.
There is a quicker and easier way to do these antennas. You don't have to remove the flares.
In your first pic. The piece of black plastic just to the right of the flare.
You can pull the holes over the top of the retainers without breaking anything if you are careful. Peel it back toward you and then you can reach the back side of the retainers. Push the two tabs in and you can pull them out, and save them for re-installation. You can reach up in there and remove the 10mm bolt holding the antenna. After removing the top nut on the fender you can pull the antenna out and the wires are long enough it will rest on the tire so you can remove the cover and the broken antenna cable pieces.
This is how I do them at the shop. Only takes about 10 minutes.
I will admit however that it helps to know how everything fits, because if you do it this way you will have to do it by feel as you won't be able to see very well. If you have never seen how it looks with the flares off you may have a harder time, but if you are familiar with them this will save you a bunch of time and trouble.”
It is true; you don’t have to remove the fender flare
I fixed my antenna yesterday and having done it I can offer a few suggestions:
1. Turn your wheels to the left just as you would if you were doing an oil change.
2. When pulling the black plastic towards your self, locate the concave portion and invert it. This will provide more room for motor removal. I was scared that the plastic might crack but my fears were not justified. I suppose the plastic might be easier to work with if it is warm outside.
3. Lay on your back and reach up into the hole you have created by pulling back the plastic. On your back you can see everything and the job becomes quite easy.
4. My motor was wrapped in plastic which was secured with weatherproof tape. Add this tape to your parts list.
5. The motor’s housing is sealed with a very gummy/sticky black compound. This seal is easy to break but it is there so be aware of it and try to fix it as best as possible.
Hopefully, this will help some people and you won’t waste a bunch of time trying to remove your fender flares like I did.
I am posting this for those, who like me; search this forum for DIY answers. Recently, I was looking for information on how to fix the power antenna. I found the following write-up: http://www.4runners.org/articles/whip/
After reading this write-up I tried to remove my fender flare but it was harder than I thought it would be. So, I started searching for answers on how to remove the fender flare. I found the following thread: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/removal-limited-flares-25038/
In this thread someone writes,
“Thought I would add a new members .02.
There is a quicker and easier way to do these antennas. You don't have to remove the flares.
In your first pic. The piece of black plastic just to the right of the flare.
You can pull the holes over the top of the retainers without breaking anything if you are careful. Peel it back toward you and then you can reach the back side of the retainers. Push the two tabs in and you can pull them out, and save them for re-installation. You can reach up in there and remove the 10mm bolt holding the antenna. After removing the top nut on the fender you can pull the antenna out and the wires are long enough it will rest on the tire so you can remove the cover and the broken antenna cable pieces.
This is how I do them at the shop. Only takes about 10 minutes.
I will admit however that it helps to know how everything fits, because if you do it this way you will have to do it by feel as you won't be able to see very well. If you have never seen how it looks with the flares off you may have a harder time, but if you are familiar with them this will save you a bunch of time and trouble.”
It is true; you don’t have to remove the fender flare
I fixed my antenna yesterday and having done it I can offer a few suggestions: 1. Turn your wheels to the left just as you would if you were doing an oil change.
2. When pulling the black plastic towards your self, locate the concave portion and invert it. This will provide more room for motor removal. I was scared that the plastic might crack but my fears were not justified. I suppose the plastic might be easier to work with if it is warm outside.
3. Lay on your back and reach up into the hole you have created by pulling back the plastic. On your back you can see everything and the job becomes quite easy.
4. My motor was wrapped in plastic which was secured with weatherproof tape. Add this tape to your parts list.
5. The motor’s housing is sealed with a very gummy/sticky black compound. This seal is easy to break but it is there so be aware of it and try to fix it as best as possible.
Hopefully, this will help some people and you won’t waste a bunch of time trying to remove your fender flares like I did.
02-27-2006, 07:29 AM
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I spent a lot of time searching the internet about this topic. I decided to add the following info so that any one reading this thread will have all of the info they need, in one place, to do this job.
Apparently, the limited flares are much more difficult to remove than the SR5 flares. I’m not sure if any SR5’s have limited flares and I have no experience with the SR5 flares. Regardless, the info below is provided for those who have limited flares or do not wish to remove their flares.
1.0 Remove broken antenna
1.1 With radio off remove the top nut.
1.2 Turn radio on and broken antenna will be ejected. You may want some help since the antenna may fall on your hood.
1.3 If the plastic tail part of the antenna is fully intact then there is no need to remove and clean the motor. If the plastic tail is broken or stripped of its teeth then the motor should be removed and cleaned.
2.0 Remove the motor.
2.1 Turn the wheels to the left.
2.2 Partially remove the inner fender panel by pulling the inner fender panel over the two fasteners. When facing the fender well start with the fastener located at the lower left portion and work clockwise.
2.2.1 The inner fender panel has square holes which will allow the panel to slip over the round fasteners which hold it in place. Once the holes in the panel are free from the fasteners, the backs of the fasteners may be accessed for removal. The fasteners have two tabs which need to be depressed in order for them to be removed. One fastener is located in the fender well, the other is in the engine bay.
2.3 Invert the inner fender panel. You should notice that a portion of the inner panel is concave. Invert this section to create space between the inner fender panel and the fender itself. This space will give you access to the motor. If you look into this space you should see the motor. NOTE: the motor may also be seen through the door jam when the door is open.
2.4 Remove black plastic piece from the top of the antenna. This is the piece into which the top nut is fastened.
2.5 The motor is attached to a bracket with a single 10mm bolt. Remove this bold and the motor will fall out. I found this to be more easily done while lying on my back.
2.6 If no one has previously repaired the motor then the motor may still be wrapped in plastic. I chose to preserve this plastic so that I could re-wrap the motor. You may act as you wish.
2.7 There are two wires going to the motor. One wire has a quick disconnect harness. Disconnect this wire. Once this wire is disconnected, the motor may be set onto the tire. Note: The other wire remains as is.
3.0 Disassembling the motor housing to remove broken plastic tail pieces from motor.
3.1 Remove the top of the motor housing.
3.1.1The top of the motor housing is held in place by (about) 4 - 5 phillips screws and one machine screw with nut (located in the center). Remove these fasteners.
3.1.2 The motor housing is sealed with a very sticky black compound. This seal is easily broken with hand pressure.
3.2 Remove broken plastic tail pieces from motor.
3.3 Reassemble motor housing.
4.0 Reinstall motor into fender well.
4.1 DO NOT install the new antenna mast yet.
4.2 I found this most easily done while lying on my back.
4.3 Based upon the steps outlined in step 2 this should be self explanatory.
5.0 Install new mast.
5.1 DO NOT install top nut
5.2 Turn the ignition key on and the radio on.
5.3 Wait until the motor stops.
5.4 Turn the radio off and while the antenna motor is running feed the new mast, with the teeth facing the rear of the vehicle, into the motor. The motor should grab the cable and pull it in. If it doesn't, rotate the teeth 180 degrees. If for some reason the antenna doesn't fully retract, put the top nut on and turn the radio on. Let the antenna go all the way up and then turn it off again. The mast should now retract fully. Note: a second person is helpful for this step.
Apparently, the limited flares are much more difficult to remove than the SR5 flares. I’m not sure if any SR5’s have limited flares and I have no experience with the SR5 flares. Regardless, the info below is provided for those who have limited flares or do not wish to remove their flares.
1.0 Remove broken antenna
1.1 With radio off remove the top nut.
1.2 Turn radio on and broken antenna will be ejected. You may want some help since the antenna may fall on your hood.
1.3 If the plastic tail part of the antenna is fully intact then there is no need to remove and clean the motor. If the plastic tail is broken or stripped of its teeth then the motor should be removed and cleaned.
2.0 Remove the motor.
2.1 Turn the wheels to the left.
2.2 Partially remove the inner fender panel by pulling the inner fender panel over the two fasteners. When facing the fender well start with the fastener located at the lower left portion and work clockwise.
2.2.1 The inner fender panel has square holes which will allow the panel to slip over the round fasteners which hold it in place. Once the holes in the panel are free from the fasteners, the backs of the fasteners may be accessed for removal. The fasteners have two tabs which need to be depressed in order for them to be removed. One fastener is located in the fender well, the other is in the engine bay.
2.3 Invert the inner fender panel. You should notice that a portion of the inner panel is concave. Invert this section to create space between the inner fender panel and the fender itself. This space will give you access to the motor. If you look into this space you should see the motor. NOTE: the motor may also be seen through the door jam when the door is open.
2.4 Remove black plastic piece from the top of the antenna. This is the piece into which the top nut is fastened.
2.5 The motor is attached to a bracket with a single 10mm bolt. Remove this bold and the motor will fall out. I found this to be more easily done while lying on my back.
2.6 If no one has previously repaired the motor then the motor may still be wrapped in plastic. I chose to preserve this plastic so that I could re-wrap the motor. You may act as you wish.
2.7 There are two wires going to the motor. One wire has a quick disconnect harness. Disconnect this wire. Once this wire is disconnected, the motor may be set onto the tire. Note: The other wire remains as is.
3.0 Disassembling the motor housing to remove broken plastic tail pieces from motor.
3.1 Remove the top of the motor housing.
3.1.1The top of the motor housing is held in place by (about) 4 - 5 phillips screws and one machine screw with nut (located in the center). Remove these fasteners.
3.1.2 The motor housing is sealed with a very sticky black compound. This seal is easily broken with hand pressure.
3.2 Remove broken plastic tail pieces from motor.
3.3 Reassemble motor housing.
4.0 Reinstall motor into fender well.
4.1 DO NOT install the new antenna mast yet.
4.2 I found this most easily done while lying on my back.
4.3 Based upon the steps outlined in step 2 this should be self explanatory.
5.0 Install new mast.
5.1 DO NOT install top nut
5.2 Turn the ignition key on and the radio on.
5.3 Wait until the motor stops.
5.4 Turn the radio off and while the antenna motor is running feed the new mast, with the teeth facing the rear of the vehicle, into the motor. The motor should grab the cable and pull it in. If it doesn't, rotate the teeth 180 degrees. If for some reason the antenna doesn't fully retract, put the top nut on and turn the radio on. Let the antenna go all the way up and then turn it off again. The mast should now retract fully. Note: a second person is helpful for this step.
02-27-2006, 09:20 AM
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I replaced the antenna on my 98 limited a couple months ago. I read somewhere online that you didn't need to take the motor apart. When I got the antenna I ordered on E-Bay, I pulled off the old one and found that the white plastic geared strip was broke about half way down. The broke portion stayed in the motor. Without taking anything apart, I fed the new antenna geared strip into the motor. No problems. The whole antenna replacement took less than 5 minutes. - Mike
02-27-2006, 12:56 PM
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Thanks for your input Mike. You have brought to attention an antenna-fix method which should be included in this thread. Based upon my research into this matter there are both an improper and a proper method for fixing the antenna.
The method you describe is the improper method. It is improper because it leaves broken pieces of plastic in the motor housing. These broken pieces: (1) may or may not prevent the new antenna from feeding into the housing and, (2) may or may not damage the new antenna mast. Employing this method could damage the new mast and it is more likely to fail prematurely due to jammed-up plastic pieces. Yet, it may work perfectly for years. If the risk of this method is acceptable then give it a shot.
The method I originally described is the proper method. It is the proper method because it removes all of the old antenna remnants from the motor housing which guarantees that the new mast will function as intended. This method possesses no risk of damaging the new mast, requires minimal mechanical skills, and will require .5 - 1 hour of labor. If you have the skills and the time then give this method a shot.
FWIW, anyone who reads this should know that I am not expert. I’m just some guy who read everything he could find on this topic and discussed this fix with his local dealer. I had a broken antenna on my 1996 limited which I fixed using the proper method. I have experience fixing one antenna with the proper method. All other information provided by me is simply my synopsis of the information I have gathered. My goal is to create the thread that I could not find when I was researching this topic. I hope this is helpful to some people.
-Craig
The method you describe is the improper method. It is improper because it leaves broken pieces of plastic in the motor housing. These broken pieces: (1) may or may not prevent the new antenna from feeding into the housing and, (2) may or may not damage the new antenna mast. Employing this method could damage the new mast and it is more likely to fail prematurely due to jammed-up plastic pieces. Yet, it may work perfectly for years. If the risk of this method is acceptable then give it a shot.
The method I originally described is the proper method. It is the proper method because it removes all of the old antenna remnants from the motor housing which guarantees that the new mast will function as intended. This method possesses no risk of damaging the new mast, requires minimal mechanical skills, and will require .5 - 1 hour of labor. If you have the skills and the time then give this method a shot.
FWIW, anyone who reads this should know that I am not expert. I’m just some guy who read everything he could find on this topic and discussed this fix with his local dealer. I had a broken antenna on my 1996 limited which I fixed using the proper method. I have experience fixing one antenna with the proper method. All other information provided by me is simply my synopsis of the information I have gathered. My goal is to create the thread that I could not find when I was researching this topic. I hope this is helpful to some people.
-Craig
02-28-2006, 08:08 AM
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Craig, you are right. You need to get all of the old out before you can go in with the new. I did this a year ago (somehow I only do this in the winter) and did not have the aid of this site. It would have been much easier with help.
Last edited by simonpsu1; 03-01-2006 at 05:20 AM.
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03-31-2006, 06:58 AM
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Craig,
Your posts helped me big time. I just replacement the power antenna mast last night in my 2000 SR5 and did not have to remove the fender flare. I would have struggled quite a bit and potentially broken something had I not had the posts from you (and others).
Especially helpful was the tip to try rotating the teeth 180 degrees during installation if the replacement mast did not go in the first time. When the old mast came out, the teeth were facing the back of the vehicle, but somehow during the disassembly and reassembly of the motor, the new mast went in with teeth facing the front. Go figure - either way, my new factory mast is working perfectly.
One thing I believe was downplayed in these post was how freaking difficult it was to remove the plastic fasteners by pressing down on the two tabs. This was by far the hardest part of this whole process.
I would estimate the repair took me 90 minutes from start to finish and I could probably do it in 30 next time. I was just super careful. Anyway, thanks a bunch for the tips!
Sean
Your posts helped me big time. I just replacement the power antenna mast last night in my 2000 SR5 and did not have to remove the fender flare. I would have struggled quite a bit and potentially broken something had I not had the posts from you (and others).
Especially helpful was the tip to try rotating the teeth 180 degrees during installation if the replacement mast did not go in the first time. When the old mast came out, the teeth were facing the back of the vehicle, but somehow during the disassembly and reassembly of the motor, the new mast went in with teeth facing the front. Go figure - either way, my new factory mast is working perfectly.
One thing I believe was downplayed in these post was how freaking difficult it was to remove the plastic fasteners by pressing down on the two tabs. This was by far the hardest part of this whole process.
I would estimate the repair took me 90 minutes from start to finish and I could probably do it in 30 next time. I was just super careful. Anyway, thanks a bunch for the tips!
Sean
05-13-2006, 02:08 PM
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Wow this thread helped me a bunch. Those black plastic fasteners were a real pita.
3 differences I saw:
step 2.2 - I have running boards so I had 3 black fasteners instead of 2. The running board fastener also had a screw through it that needs to be removed.
step 2.7 - The quick disconnect harness was attached to the fender. I had to free it before the motor would fall down.
step 5.4 - My top nut was really stuck to my old mast. I had to free it to reuse on the new mast.
Thanks creekfisher!
3 differences I saw:
step 2.2 - I have running boards so I had 3 black fasteners instead of 2. The running board fastener also had a screw through it that needs to be removed.
step 2.7 - The quick disconnect harness was attached to the fender. I had to free it before the motor would fall down.
step 5.4 - My top nut was really stuck to my old mast. I had to free it to reuse on the new mast.
Thanks creekfisher!
11-23-2008, 01:37 PM
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Can anyone familiar with this write-up answer a few questions? I have a 99 4Runner with plastic SR5 flares (easy to remove). Can someone clarify step 2.2.1 the write up says to "pull the inner fender panel over the two fasteners"". However I have "four" round fasteners that hold on the inner fender panel (which I assume is the black plastic piece just inside the fender opening, which looks like could give me access to the antenna motor). It seems to me if I could remove those four fasteners the inner fender panel would come right out. If that is true, can someone tell me how they come out?
Edit: Those four round fasteners were indeed what holds the inner fender panel in place, and it's fairly easy to pull the inner fender panel over the two fasteners. However, I found getting those fasteners released so you can replace the inner fender panel by reinstalling the fasteners was impossible for me which caused reinstallation to me a major pain (the ole square hole, round peg scenerio). There was just no way I could get any leverage or angle on those fasteners.
Edit: Those four round fasteners were indeed what holds the inner fender panel in place, and it's fairly easy to pull the inner fender panel over the two fasteners. However, I found getting those fasteners released so you can replace the inner fender panel by reinstalling the fasteners was impossible for me which caused reinstallation to me a major pain (the ole square hole, round peg scenerio). There was just no way I could get any leverage or angle on those fasteners.
Last edited by 4Runner4Christ; 11-24-2008 at 07:16 PM.
11-26-2008, 06:53 AM
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2.2 Partially remove the inner fender panel by pulling the inner fender panel over the two fasteners. When facing the fender well start with the fastener located at the lower left portion and work clockwise.
2.2.1 The inner fender panel has square holes which will allow the panel to slip over the round fasteners which hold it in place. Once the holes in the panel are free from the fasteners, the backs of the fasteners may be accessed for removal. The fasteners have two tabs which need to be depressed in order for them to be removed. One fastener is located in the fender well, the other is in the engine bay.
2.2.1 The inner fender panel has square holes which will allow the panel to slip over the round fasteners which hold it in place. Once the holes in the panel are free from the fasteners, the backs of the fasteners may be accessed for removal. The fasteners have two tabs which need to be depressed in order for them to be removed. One fastener is located in the fender well, the other is in the engine bay.
EDIT:
Is this what we're talking about? If so, the heads on my fasteners are quite a bit larger than this square hole, but I'll give it another go if this is the case for everyone else and this is indeed the square hole that will come over the top of the round peg... Don't want to break or tear anything...
-Ferg-
Last edited by theferg; 11-26-2008 at 06:59 AM.
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