98fourrunner

I have a 98 4runner that will start and die after 1-2 seconds of running. I've searched and searched and tried a few methods so far and no go.

So far I've replaced the fuel pump with new, fuel filter with new, igniter with new, ignition coils with new, spark plugs and wires with new, cleaned out the throttle body and the IACV underneath it. I've also replaced the ECU with one from a junkyard and no go.

After all this, it still just starts and dies. I'm getting fuel pressure all the way up to the fuel rails. I cracked the nut on the fuel rail open and had my friend start it, fuel sprayed out. I've gotten underneath and I can hear the fuel pump running when trying to start.

When I run starter fluid straight into the intake tube, the car will stay running as long as I continue to spray starter fluid. Some reason fuel is not continuing to flow. I've taken a stethoscope and listened to the injectors. I can hear them pulse for 1-2 seconds after starting then somehow get turned off. I'm stumped at this point. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

OJ Simpson 4Runner

does it start normally? like does it sound and vibrate normally when it starts and then the engine simply just cuts out? can you get a video?

j2the-e

I am assuming its a 3.4. Check the ground wire on the intake manifold right above the oil cap. Make sure its clean and tight.

98fourrunner

Oj: stars up normally. No binding, grinding, vibrations etc. I'll try to get a vid up soon. I'm thinking it has to be a fuel issue. When starting it and runs for 1-2 secs, I can hear the injectors pulsing for that 1-2 seconds. Right after the injectors stop pulsing is when the engine stops running. When I continually spray it with starter fluid, it stays running. What would turn on the injectors and then turn them off?

J2: yes. 3.4 v6 automatic. All stock. No mods at all. I believe I've checked that ground already on the intake manifold above the oil cap. I'll double check.

98fourrunner

grounds are good. man, this is getting ridiculous. I've tried almost everything I can to get this thing running. maybe I'm missing something?

rworegon

Have you checked the COR - Circuit Opening Relay? Crank Position Sensor? Cam Position Sensor? Is the CEL light on?

98fourrunner

haven't checked the COR yet. that was my next step.

with the Crank PS and the Cam PS, wouldn't it throw a code if they were bad? I checked for codes and weird thing was, it was showing only a DTC P1300 Igniter Circuit Malfunction. I already replaced the Igniter with a brand new one from Toyota. Everytime I cleared it, then tried to start it again, the P1300 DTC would keep reappering.

the thing that throws me all off is that it'll run fine if there's fuel being supplied. something is turning off the injectors for some odd reason.

j2the-e

That sounds like an expensive mis-diagnosis. Now that we have the full story(I think), have you checked your efi main relay? 15 amp efi fuse? P1300 means the ecu is not seeing the coils fire. There is a feedback called an IGF signal that tells the ecu that the coils are working. Could be a bad wire or connection. No IGF= P1300 and no injector pulse. One of the ecu's functions is to protect the catalytic converter. When it "thinks" there is no spark, it will stop the injectors to prevent dumping raw fuel into the cat

rworegon

Are all grounds under the hood in good condition, clean, and tight?
Have you gone through the FSM diagnostic for P1300?

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

Is your MAF testing good? The starts and runs a couple seconds and dies is usually and indicator of a MAF fault of not sending a signal to the COR to run the fuel pump. It will "prime" the system when starting but will not supply fuel after the motor starts running.

j2the-e

This would be correct on the older systems with an air flow meter(the old flapper door style like on the 22re and 3vz-e) Incorrect for this vehicle however. The maf does not power the circuit opening relay

TheDurk

Starting and then dying is what my BMW does when you use a non-chipped key. (My Toyota doesn't have this so I don't know what it does.) Does your rig have an immobilizer chip? Is there another key you can try?

Lepprykaun

Just curious if you solved your problem yet? I have the same issue but with an 85 4runner but instead of running good it runs good for 3 seconds, then rough, then it dies. I've checked all my vacuum lines, replaced fuel pump, filter, afm, tps, iac... Still nothing =/ I'm getting a wee bit fed up =(

98fourrunner

I don't think it has an immobilizer on the car

Nope. Haven't found a fix yet. I wish I did. Might just take it in to the dealership. I have no time to really look at it having 2 jobs and school right now.

If anybody has more ideas, please share. Thanks

98fourrunner

Sorry. Forgot to mention I replaced the MAF with a brand new one also and still same problem.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

Actually my friend it does. It sends a ground signal to the COR. Having done 12 3.4 swaps Can say that is fact.

However OP just replaced it and its still not working, so I gotta say its the COR. If you "hot wire" the fuel pump to be on will it run then? If not, then its something with the injectors not firing. However if it runs with the pump jumpered, then its more than likely the Cor or wiring to the pump.

98fourrunner

how do I "hot wire" the fuel pump? so from what I'm getting from you is that the COR is turning the fuel injectors off?

DRCOFFEE

98fourrunner

Found out the issue.

It was a short to ground. I'm not sure if the car was in an accident before but the wiring from fuel pump was open. Wrapped it up with electrical tape and was good to go

Stephen H

I just had a similar issue with it starting then turning off after 2 seconds after replacing the ignition coil and wires. I reconnected everything except the air intake tube that I removed to get to the coils. For anyone in a similar situation you have to put the air intake back completely otherwise it shuts off automatically.