eddieleephd

Ok I have posted in both ttora and customtacos to no avail at the moment!
I am pulling all the stops I find!

I swapped out my old eng for one of the same plugged every thing up and
am not getting fuel or fire to the cyls. I have good pressure!
I have checked the coil packs they are good. the cam and crank sensors test good
I did the run down on the ECM it all tests good other than the heated o2 sensors and the tank pressure are a little off! THis should not stop it from firing!!!
did a compression test and 2&4 are low but the guy I got the engine from is telling me I need to get it to start and run a few 30 min. or so then retest to see if it improves!!


now I am stumped I got a new maf since that is the only thing I ever had an issue with and still no fire! from what I can tell the ignitor is good but still no spark!
Does any one know of the correct way to fully diagnose this issue? every thing I find is running me in circles!!!

All thoughts will be helpful and if I have not checked I will need this thing running!!!I feel as if I am this guy right now!!!

Oh yeah I have good grounds as well!

97ltd4x4

RPM and airflow are the two biggies...make sure you are seeing the RPM signal at ECM.Make sure you are seeing good power(s) to the ECM,Make sure you are seeing good cam signal at ECM.Make sure you are seeing good power and ground at ignitor...double check fuses as well,if you haven't already.

Also worth noting,FYI:When the vehical is started the ECM looks for RPM signal first..Then starts ignition,next it looks for cam sensor to start fuel injection pulsation timing..(will be wide open at start),Next it looks for MAF to calculate injector timing(on-time)...

One other thing..you can either check the RPM and cam sensors with either an ocsiliscoping meter or just use a a DVOM set on AC voltage..the higher the RPM speed the higher the voltage(just like testing an ABS speed sensor or distributor pickup)..will also see a blip once every RPM this lack of signal is TDC#1 cylinder refrance for ECM=Normal

If ECM does not see this signal ignition will never start..neither will on-time for the injectors

eddieleephd

Ok so my question would have to be is what would be the the voltage I should see from the crank sensor and the cam sensors be when cranking the eng.?
I was reading .9 -1.0Vac or some thing like that from the crank and can't remember exactly what it was from the cam! I just replaced the maf, am unsure what exactly the ECM is looking for there. All I find for any is "varying"!
All of the questions I have in diagnosing the Ecm is the voltages I should see and what
exactly they should read. The one thing I am most confused about is the cam where is the cam negative- at the ECM I am told to check the voltage between "crank-&cam+" not and not "cam- &cam+". On one diagram I have shows the cam- and crank- joining and one shows them entering the ecm at thier own points!

I did find the ecm check procedure and all was fine but o2 and fuel vapor!

All my tests were done with a multi meter!

By the way this was the best description I have gotten on this subject! Thankyou!

eddieleephd

97ltd4x4 Thank you for the key vAC I ran through one more time!
on dc I found voltages some how and when I tested my crank at ecm with ac nothing! This was shorting out! Repaired short and wha la!

Thank you every body for reading
And a BIG THANK YOU TO 97ltd4x4

97ltd4x4

That's great news!

Glad I could help


Like in my earlier post,If anyone wants to test a magnetic pick up type sensor.Like the ABS tone ring,Distributor pick up or any rotational type sensors(with teeth on a ring,and magnetic pick-up sensor),Need to set meter on AC Voltage...The higher the speed of the ring(wheel) with the teeth the higher the AC voltage will be........That's why FSM will say the voltage will vary...And from memory spinning a tire on a rack by hand testing an ABS sensor..you can watch AV voltage go from 0(wheel at stop)to 6AC volts(wheel spinning as fast as you can by hand)...........Also if the voltage is very low and does move but say 1-2Volts ac there is either mud in the teeth or the air gap is too wide and the sensor cannot create strong voltage..If you have no voltage at all either the air gap is so wide the pick-up cannot create voltage or you have short/open wires....

eddieleephd

now that it is running there is a high idle I have adjusted both the throttle set screw
and the one to the cold start "thingy" don't know exactly what to call it!
Would call it a choke but no vaccum or cables go to it so huh!

can you point me in the right direction I know that I have seen it some where!
But when you search for it specifically no where to be found!

Link?

97ltd4x4

Your TPS should just have 2 phillips set screws? with no adjustment

If your throttle plate is closed,there is un-mettered air getting into the manifold..or the rare case is your IAC is binding open.

I would now start looking for vacuum leaks with a constant high idle...best way to check is spray the hoses with a little WD-40 or simillar..if the idle goes down..you found your leak/loose hose/cracked hose,ect.

Another question is this enging you swapped complete,meaning did it come with used throttle body,front timing cover,ect? or just a long block?

eddieleephd

Yes it was complete however it came out of an automatic so I had to switch over my throttle body! and I switched over both cam and crank sensors!

so I am thinking of the TPS adjustment that I have heard of before and can't seem to find it! maybe I do just need to get her dirty with some WD! checked hoses visually!
Hmm well I think that I am gonna see if I can borrow a scanner if that doesn't help I will
do the WD tomorrow around the time I do the front mainseal on that damn old FORD hell of a four letter word around here!

I changed out the seals as well!

mt_goat

Here's the FSM test for the TPS: http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2000/Repa...0Body/insp.pdf

eddieleephd

Thank you once again with this Mt. Goat! You!
but Tps Calibration I still have not found maybe I'll trial and error it with digi multi meter!
Or maybe the old man has an old one! Manual type!

PHD

eddieleephd

Ok so once again the easy fix worked!!
I popped the hood and thought well I will just tighten the intake tube and see what that does! Poof Idled at 750-800 like it used to!

Just for reference it idles this low because I am using the two step cooler plug NGK- BKUR7ET with copper electrode and triple ground strap recommended By URD for forced induction! I think their great in my rig!

Play any instruments I am learning to play the BANJO!!
Wheres the dude playing the banjo? Instead of rocking the guitbox!

mt_goat

Is that what they are recommending now? Are you boosted?

eddieleephd

No boost just the plugs!
When I put those plugs in originally it dropped the idle to about 700-775!
about a year or so ago!

That dang Idle issue has returned though!

Today I did as said earlier and tightened the air tube the idle dropped.
Then I took it for a spin and the idle went up to 1250 then 1500 then 1750!
shut it off start it back up and 700-775 drive come to stop and same thing!
Just sprayed brake cleaner in the eng. compartment and nothing!
so I think I will pull off the IAC and check it out don't know where else to look!

eddieleephd

Finally Purring like a kitten once again

pulled the IAC and nothing wrong! So I BLASTED the heck out of the rod going through the throttle body
Not forgetting at the gap where the TPS attaches! Adjusted the Idle set screw, messed with the throttle
opening and closing the throttle. I drove it around a little then repeated!
I then left it alone and drove some more the issue with a high idle is gone!
now I think I need to readjust the idle up just a little so the idle is not under 750rpm
eh maybe not ! We'll see.