1st gen headlight/bright switch
 

Any of you 1st gen's have trouble with your switch to keep teh brights on??

Mine was working and then it just stopped. Then after jerkin it around it worked for a couple of months, then I took a gnarly whoop out in ocotillo 2 weeks ago and it shut off mid air. When I stopped bouncing around I had to switch back to the main headlights. Just wondering if this is an easy fix. I opened the steering column a while back and it looks somewhat complex. Thanks -seth

No Brights
 

I had the same problem. Replaced the dimmer switch problem solved? Problem came back. Took switch apart and filed down the contacts with a small file. Works great again. Iam not sure how to transfer you to the thread were I read this but it is called no brights. Hope this helps.

Greg

I have this assembly out of my truck, replaced it with the SR5 ones. I'm going to take it apart to get the turn signal reset mech out, if you want the rest I'll give it to you.

dajabar that would be cool if you don't need it anymore.

I've been looking around for it to get my turn signal thing done, but I think I put it at a friends place in culpeper. I might be out there in a week, then I can check for it. Will take off the light "wand" for you, I don't think the reset I need is part of it.

You do have a non-SR5 right?

Yup, it's a plain old DLX

here's a possible fix
 

Check out:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...eadlight_Combo

My headlight switch does the same thing, it sounds like its extremely common. I did the Roger fix (4crawler) and that worked for a few months. The switch is flawed in design, if I remember right, Roger's article talks about it a little. I don't know of a permanent fix personally, someone else might... I think his Roger's user name is 4Crawler, I'll see if he'll chime in.

Yes, read the page, it has all the details. The whole factory wiring and switch is the problem, too much wire that is too small, and it all relies on the combo switch to make it work.

The real fix is to install a relay harness and bypass it all, as I note on the page. If interested, I'm looking into offering a relay kit just like I use (its no longer available where I bought it) for about $35. Let me know if there is any interest and I'll persue it.

Ok let me ask a stupid question here. I have the first gen runner.. Is there a difference between the regular model and an Sr5 brights switch? So far I haven't had any problem with mine aside from taking some time to figure out that forward meant it comes on and stays on and pull back it doesn't stay on :P

I think they are the same, my SR5 switch works that way. Back is the "Flash" position, turns on both high and low beams. That is a good test of the switch everything else in the system, as noted on my page. Pull back and if both high and lows come on then everything else is working, fuses, relays, wires, grounds, etc. This mode uses separate, rarely used contacts on the switch, so its always likely to work. If either the high or low beam doesn't work by itself, then this only leaves the normal high or low beam contacts as the source of the problem.

Hey death, I still havn't been out to culpepper to get this switch, but it's in my planner so I can get the turn reset thing fixed. DO you still need this?

Got it. Lemme know.