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1998 Toyota 4Runner Timing Belt and Water Pump Replacement

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Old 08-08-2017, 09:03 AM
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It seemed like when it was snug the bolt was free wheel or free spinning to be exact. Is this normal?
Old 08-08-2017, 09:27 AM
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Posts: 1I have a 1998 toyota 4runner and I recently replaced the timing belt, hydraulic actuator, and tensioner that sits on top of the hydraulic actuator. While replacing the tensioner, I would not tighten down but just started spinning when the bolt was all the way in. Is this normal or should the tensioner bolt be tight? Thanks to anyone who can help.
Old 08-08-2017, 10:10 AM
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If you're talking about the tensioner bolts, and you're not using that special tool, you need to compress it first and slide a small item, like a hex key, then install the tensioner back on. To compress, there are a few ways. Large c- clamp is one.

Never heard of hydraulic actuator. I must have missed something 25k miles ago.

If the bolt for some reason is still spinning, maybe you've stripped the threads...a tap might save you...you can try threading the bolts directly in without the tensioner to check if the threads are good...

Last edited by 75w90mantraN; 08-08-2017 at 10:14 AM.
Old 08-08-2017, 10:46 AM
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The tensioner for the timing belt only has one bolt in the middle of it and it rests on the hydraulic actuator which puts more tension on the timing belt. It seems like the bolt isn't supposed to be too tight but I am not sure. The bolt didnt appear to be stripped out of the housing.
Old 08-08-2017, 11:08 AM
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I gotcha! I am talking about the round idler pulley that sits on the tensioner. The pulley applies pressure to the timing belt. It is the lower tensioner. The bolt through the middle will not tighten to a stop. Is that normal or should I worry? Thank you for your help with this btw.
Old 08-08-2017, 12:27 PM
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Yeah, that's how it is since its not bolted to the front of the engine like how the upper idler pulley is. Just make sure the bearing inside that pulley is still good-no rough or sluggish feel when you spin it. I looked through my pics...think I also replaced my tensioner pulley, but I don't recall having to tighten what I think you're referring to. May need to rewind a bit. The bolt under the pulley with a hex opening is what I think I remember tightening.
Attached Thumbnails 1998 Toyota 4Runner Timing Belt and Water Pump Replacement-wp_20150605_011-1-.jpg  

Last edited by 75w90mantraN; 08-08-2017 at 01:14 PM.
Old 08-08-2017, 04:24 PM
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Not exactly sure what you're talking about but you should be able to tighten these bolts completely.
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Last edited by Marc; 08-08-2017 at 04:30 PM.
Old 08-09-2017, 06:39 AM
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Yes, that is it. The upper hex nut in the center of the pulley. It will not tighten to a stop. I'm thinking it should be okay but wanted to make sure it is normal?
Old 08-09-2017, 07:20 AM
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https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/n...review-247545/

Had a feeling that bolt you're talking about isn't involved with removal/install. Unless maybe redoing the bearings inside. Link has the steps outlined. Its from one of the sticky posts here on YT.
Old 08-09-2017, 08:34 AM
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Which one are you talking about?
In the top picture with the 1 the small nut uses a 13mm socket and is tightened by using a 13mm wrench on the other side of it if there is room.
The hex bolt with the 2 beside it tightens into the block and is a pivot point.
They both should be tight.

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This shows the backside of the idler/tensioner pulley.
1998 Toyota 4Runner Timing Belt and Water Pump Replacement-qfdk5ig.jpg
Old 08-09-2017, 11:47 AM
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Yes its number 1. You got it right. I was referring to replacing the tb overall. But my memory is foggy.
Old 08-09-2017, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 75w90mantraN
Yes its number 1. You got it right. I was referring to replacing the tb overall. But my memory is foggy.
I was asking chrisl7678
Sorry for the confusion, I should have quoted him.
Old 08-10-2017, 08:56 AM
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It is the number 2 hex nut.
Old 08-11-2017, 07:01 AM
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That hex bolt should stop turning.
Torque is 26 ft lbs.
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