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- Toyota Tacoma 231mm Tundra Brake Upgrade<br>Step by step instrucstions for do-it-yourself repairs.
'01 Tundra Brakes installed on '98 Gen 3 4Runner
04-12-2012, 08:45 AM
#61
If its been more than a year I would. Brake fluid is hydrophillic which means it absorbs water each time the system is opened and the fluid is exposed to air. The water will corrode the internals of the brake system which is why the pistons seize up. So its a good idea to flush every 2 years regardless of miles. With my upgrade I replaced the fluid with ATE Super Blue DOT 4 fluid. Just better quality than what you can get in the parts store. On ebay I got a Quart for $20. Seems like when I've used the DOT 3 stuff at Autozone, it turns a dark amber in 6 months.
04-12-2012, 08:55 AM
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Thanks, DRCOFFEE!
If its been more than a year I would. Brake fluid is hydrophillic which means it absorbs water each time the system is opened and the fluid is exposed to air. The water will corrode the internals of the brake system which is why the pistons seize up. So its a good idea to flush every 2 years regardless of miles. With my upgrade I replaced the fluid with ATE Super Blue DOT 4 fluid. Just better quality than what you can get in the parts store. On ebay I got a Quart for $20. Seems like when I've used the DOT 3 stuff at Autozone, it turns a dark amber in 6 months.
04-12-2012, 09:10 AM
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If its been more than a year I would. Brake fluid is hydrophillic which means it absorbs water each time the system is opened and the fluid is exposed to air. The water will corrode the internals of the brake system which is why the pistons seize up. So its a good idea to flush every 2 years regardless of miles. With my upgrade I replaced the fluid with ATE Super Blue DOT 4 fluid. Just better quality than what you can get in the parts store. On ebay I got a Quart for $20. Seems like when I've used the DOT 3 stuff at Autozone, it turns a dark amber in 6 months.
During the bleeding process the engine must be turned on or off?
Thanks, again.
Last edited by TheOriginal; 04-12-2012 at 09:12 AM.
04-12-2012, 09:20 AM
#65
So, to properly bleed the brakes you want to remove as much fluid from the resevoir as you can without letting air in the lines. So leave about .5" in the bottom of the resevoir and then refill with fresh fluid. The front of the resevoir is for the rear brakes and the back resevoir is for the front brakes. What I had to do to purge the front resevoir is to bleed the rear brakes until it was low enough (have someone watch the level while you do it, then top it off with new fluid. Then start flushing the lines with new fluid to the rear brakes first. The rear brakes share a common line all the way back to the axle.
LR, RR, RF and LF.
The idea is to start with the longest run first and ending closest to the master. A clear tube on the bleeder valve will let you see when clear fluid finally comes out. If you haven't done this before its really easy but I would strongly suggest you watch a few videos to show you how its done (see below). And something I would also suggest is when depressing the brake pedal is only go 3/4 of the way to the floor. By pressing the brakes all the way to the floor on an older vehicles you can damage the master cylinder seals.
One more item to remember is while bleeding the new calipers use the plastic end of a big screwdrive and repeated tap bang on the caliper. The shock waves will free up any small air bubbles sticking to the walls inside the caliper. It'll seem like all the air is out on the new ones but keep bleeding because these are dual chamber calipers and the air will take time to be purged. Its hard to put a number to it but if you get 4 strokes without air bubbles, you should be good. Once you lock down the bleeder screw and finish up, really stand on the brake pedal and then go look to make sure the bleeders are sealed and no fluid is leaking.
ENGINE OFF.
Great instructional video on bleeding brakes
I use the two man procedure with pumping the brake pedal. Personally, I don't like pressure bleeding because it forces atmospheric water into the fluid. But that's just me. It will certainly make the job easier.
Autozone brake bleeding
I started looking for videos on youtube and there are a lot of bad ones out there. I'll post a few more as I find them.
LR, RR, RF and LF.
The idea is to start with the longest run first and ending closest to the master. A clear tube on the bleeder valve will let you see when clear fluid finally comes out. If you haven't done this before its really easy but I would strongly suggest you watch a few videos to show you how its done (see below). And something I would also suggest is when depressing the brake pedal is only go 3/4 of the way to the floor. By pressing the brakes all the way to the floor on an older vehicles you can damage the master cylinder seals.
One more item to remember is while bleeding the new calipers use the plastic end of a big screwdrive and repeated tap bang on the caliper. The shock waves will free up any small air bubbles sticking to the walls inside the caliper. It'll seem like all the air is out on the new ones but keep bleeding because these are dual chamber calipers and the air will take time to be purged. Its hard to put a number to it but if you get 4 strokes without air bubbles, you should be good. Once you lock down the bleeder screw and finish up, really stand on the brake pedal and then go look to make sure the bleeders are sealed and no fluid is leaking.
ENGINE OFF.
Great instructional video on bleeding brakes
I use the two man procedure with pumping the brake pedal. Personally, I don't like pressure bleeding because it forces atmospheric water into the fluid. But that's just me. It will certainly make the job easier.
Autozone brake bleeding
I started looking for videos on youtube and there are a lot of bad ones out there. I'll post a few more as I find them.
Last edited by DRCOFFEE; 04-12-2012 at 10:00 AM.
04-12-2012, 09:30 AM
#66
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So, to properly bleed the brakes you want to remove as much fluid from the resevoir as you can without letting air in the lines. So leave about .5" in the bottom of the resevoir and then refill with fresh fluid. The front of the resevoir is for the rear brakes and the back resevoir is for the front brakes. What I had to do to purge the front resevoir is to bleed the rear brakes until it was low enough (have someone watch the level while you do it, then top it off with new fluid. Then start flushing the lines with new fluid to the rear brakes first. The rear brakes share a common line all the way back to the axle.
LR, RR, RF and LF.
The idea is to start with the longest run first and ending closest to the master. A clear tube on the bleeder valve will let you see when clear fluid finally comes out. If you haven't done this before its really easy but I would strongly suggest you watch 3 or 4 youtube videos to show you how its done. And something I would also suggest is when depressing the brake pedal is only go 3/4 of the way to the floor. By pressing the brakes all the way to the floor on an older vehicles you can damage the master cylinder seals.
ENGINE OFF.
LR, RR, RF and LF.
The idea is to start with the longest run first and ending closest to the master. A clear tube on the bleeder valve will let you see when clear fluid finally comes out. If you haven't done this before its really easy but I would strongly suggest you watch 3 or 4 youtube videos to show you how its done. And something I would also suggest is when depressing the brake pedal is only go 3/4 of the way to the floor. By pressing the brakes all the way to the floor on an older vehicles you can damage the master cylinder seals.
ENGINE OFF.
Very very goog information, thanks for your quick responce.
TheOriginal
05-12-2012, 09:53 PM
#68
Registered User
hey guys i have a question. I'm a newbie here and i'm in urgent need of help, does anyone know the size of the 00 tundra (sr5, v8, 4wd) stock calipers? my mounting bolts flew out and am in need of new ones immediately. but i need to know if the stock caliper on my truck is a 199mm or a 231mm?
thanks for any help!
thanks for any help!
05-13-2012, 08:38 AM
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hey guys i have a question. I'm a newbie here and i'm in urgent need of help, does anyone know the size of the 00 tundra (sr5, v8, 4wd) stock calipers? my mounting bolts flew out and am in need of new ones immediately. but i need to know if the stock caliper on my truck is a 199mm or a 231mm?
thanks for any help!
thanks for any help!
05-25-2012, 06:08 PM
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07-29-2012, 11:55 PM
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Has anybody with these wheels tried the upgrade. Ill pay a premium for these parts here in canada so I don't want to get them and find out they don't fit
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02-17-2014, 09:14 PM
#76
It has been Nearly 8 years ....
As the original poster of this thread I can say that I did a replacement of the pads about 4 years ago (might have to check my own post to verify that!) and I am still very much impressed with the general performance of the hybrid pads I purchased from AutoZone. I have towed a small trailer as well as a car dolly with a car on it without any issues and stopping power has been very adequate. Still very happy with performance. I hope that others have enjoyed the thread and are using it to the fullest extent. Happy 4wheelin! Ritzy
03-11-2014, 03:22 PM
#77
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Keeping the helpful post alive!
Been lurking the past few months & finally posting for first time. Going to change the rotors & pads I have neglected for the past few months. Only thing that stalled me last weekend was my apprehension with the bleeding. After enough videos and reading, especially helpful threads such as this one, I'm fully confident in bleeding not only the two front brakes but all four. Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for their helpful input over the many years of this thread.... whenever & if you end up reading this again.
Bought the cheap mityvac at Adv.auto but then ordered some speed bleeders before I even opened the apparently unreliable mityvac. Anyone have experience with either products?
quick question... should the car be up on 4 jacks to bleed whole system, or can jack up back then front?
2001 4runnner Ltd. ........ stock (owned since '05 but the journey to giving her all the love and attention she deserves has just begun)
Bought the cheap mityvac at Adv.auto but then ordered some speed bleeders before I even opened the apparently unreliable mityvac. Anyone have experience with either products?
quick question... should the car be up on 4 jacks to bleed whole system, or can jack up back then front?
2001 4runnner Ltd. ........ stock (owned since '05 but the journey to giving her all the love and attention she deserves has just begun)
03-11-2014, 10:04 PM
#78
Been lurking the past few months & finally posting for first time. Going to change the rotors & pads I have neglected for the past few months. Only thing that stalled me last weekend was my apprehension with the bleeding. After enough videos and reading, especially helpful threads such as this one, I'm fully confident in bleeding not only the two front brakes but all four. Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for their helpful input over the many years of this thread.... whenever & if you end up reading this again.
Bought the cheap mityvac at Adv.auto but then ordered some speed bleeders before I even opened the apparently unreliable mityvac. Anyone have experience with either products?
quick question... should the car be up on 4 jacks to bleed whole system, or can jack up back then front?
Bought the cheap mityvac at Adv.auto but then ordered some speed bleeders before I even opened the apparently unreliable mityvac. Anyone have experience with either products?
quick question... should the car be up on 4 jacks to bleed whole system, or can jack up back then front?
To bleed the brakes you don't need to have the vehicle on jacks or even jack stands. All you really need is the items to bleed the brakes, (wrench, long piece of tygon tubing to fit over the nipple of the brake zerk, acceptable container to catch the old fluid, approved new brake fluid) and a helper to press the brake pedal. The only thing using a jack/jack stand is to get the truck higher off the ground, but its not really needed. Just be sure to top off the master cylinder reservoir before you begin.
1. Pump the brake pedal several times then hold it hard.
Lossen the zerk just enough to allow the fluid to escape. The pedal will go to the floor, DO NOT let up pressure on the pedal!
2. Close the zerk snug.
3.Begin to pump the brake pedal until it gets firm again, usually 3-4 times and hold it firmly.
4. Loosen the brake zerk again. Continue to hold pressure on the brake pedal as it goes to the floor again.
5 continue this process until you see no air bubbles coming from the zerk. This is why you use a piece of tygon, you can see the bubbles and fluid as well as being able to catch it in a suitable container to minimize the mess and it keeps things clean!
6. Continue wit each wheel until no air issues from brake nipple. Ensure you lock the nipple fully down (don't gorilla fist it).
I recommend doing the fronts first, then the rears. After each wheel or in the case of the rears, check the fluid level in the master cylinder after each successive cycles at least every 3 times just be sure you don't let the level get low as then you just suck in air to the system and then you have to start over. really super easy to bleed your own brakes.
03-12-2014, 07:27 AM
#79
Registered User
Just an addendum tot he above procedure: After bleeding the brakes, rinse the area well with water. Brake fluid will eat paint right off metal if it's allowed to stay there. It's water soluble, so a good rinse will remove it all.
03-12-2014, 11:01 AM
#80
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To bleed the brakes you don't need to have the vehicle on jacks or even jack stands. All you really need is the items to bleed the brakes, (wrench, long piece of tygon tubing to fit over the nipple of the brake zerk, acceptable container to catch the old fluid, approved new brake fluid) and a helper to press the brake pedal. The only thing using a jack/jack stand is to get the truck higher off the ground, but its not really needed. Just be sure to top off the master cylinder reservoir before you begin.
1. Pump the brake pedal several times then hold it hard.
Lossen the zerk just enough to allow the fluid to escape. The pedal will go to the floor, DO NOT let up pressure on the pedal!
2. Close the zerk snug.
3.Begin to pump the brake pedal until it gets firm again, usually 3-4 times and hold it firmly.
4. Loosen the brake zerk again. Continue to hold pressure on the brake pedal as it goes to the floor again.
5 continue this process until you see no air bubbles coming from the zerk. This is why you use a piece of tygon, you can see the bubbles and fluid as well as being able to catch it in a suitable container to minimize the mess and it keeps things clean!
6. Continue wit each wheel until no air issues from brake nipple. Ensure you lock the nipple fully down (don't gorilla fist it).
I recommend doing the fronts first, then the rears. After each wheel or in the case of the rears, check the fluid level in the master cylinder after each successive cycles at least every 3 times just be sure you don't let the level get low as then you just suck in air to the system and then you have to start over. really super easy to bleed your own brakes.
1. Pump the brake pedal several times then hold it hard.
Lossen the zerk just enough to allow the fluid to escape. The pedal will go to the floor, DO NOT let up pressure on the pedal!
2. Close the zerk snug.
3.Begin to pump the brake pedal until it gets firm again, usually 3-4 times and hold it firmly.
4. Loosen the brake zerk again. Continue to hold pressure on the brake pedal as it goes to the floor again.
5 continue this process until you see no air bubbles coming from the zerk. This is why you use a piece of tygon, you can see the bubbles and fluid as well as being able to catch it in a suitable container to minimize the mess and it keeps things clean!
6. Continue wit each wheel until no air issues from brake nipple. Ensure you lock the nipple fully down (don't gorilla fist it).
I recommend doing the fronts first, then the rears. After each wheel or in the case of the rears, check the fluid level in the master cylinder after each successive cycles at least every 3 times just be sure you don't let the level get low as then you just suck in air to the system and then you have to start over. really super easy to bleed your own brakes.
Thanks for the input, and although my experience so far is only that of someone who has spent too much time watching videos and reading threads... a couple issues...
I thought you shouldn't press the pedal all the way to the floor so the seals in the cylinder don't stress too much and tare.
Also, isn't it pretty common knowledge that if you were to bleed all four wheels you'd start with the furthest from the MS, hence back right, then back left, front right, front left. Just asking cause you're the first person I've heard suggest starting in the front. Honestly, I don't thing the order would ruin the whole operation, but might as well do it the right way if it require zero extra effort.
Anyway, appreciate the input, cheers.
