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Then I turn the pinion....which turns the ring gear......and forces the 3 spring loaded pins up into the case. (The ramp ring is held tight by the electro-magnet on the left.)
The pins are fully in
Continued turning now forces the ramp ring to turn. That's the way it was designed to work.
Removing the 12 volts causes the 3 pins to snap out very quick.
the guys I bought the axle from wasn't exactly sure what vehicle it was pulled from. It went on a SAS and he said it was originally a 83 axle, but that's the extent of the info I got
if you've never seen brand, I sure can't know about it haha
Makes sense, Zytra....the 83 model had the factory solid collars already in the 3rds and so that's why you have a really good diff with a Harrop and a solid collar
It's only my opinion, but I say try the factory 3 piece drive shaft with the center carrier bearing and see how that works. To eliminate it means a really long 2 piece and those are hard to balance....and keep the rocks away from.
Makes sense, Zytra....the 83 model had the factory solid collars already in the 3rds and so that's why you have a really good diff with a Harrop and a solid collar
It's only my opinion, but I say try the factory 3 piece drive shaft with the center carrier bearing and see how that works. To eliminate it means a really long 2 piece and those are hard to balance....and keep the rocks away from.
what about the front, just grind/clearance the C/V and U joint + 10" spline kit?
Very clean, did you ever have any concern of running short of travel on front spline?
I could keep my front U-joint (or C/V since I will install a dual case) and clearance it. If I get the 10" spline kit, I believe it comes with a U-joint, the specs don't say what's the max angle on them.
We finished cleaning up the axle, knuckles and hubs yesterday. Cut off some brackets off the axle and gave it a fresh coat of primer.
Installed new bearing racers in the hubs. We should have the axle fully rebuilt next time we work on it.
Waiting on the front hanger, and new cases/crossmember
We installed the diff, finished rebuilding knuckles, adjusted preload and installed the new 30 spline Longfield front axles.
Getting new wheel studs next, and rebuilding the hubs and then we'll start tearing the IFS stuff.
We installed the hubs and locking hubs, at least one of them because the other one was missing both the spring and the detente ball.
Next we'll start taking the IFS off the truck.
We pulled the truck in the garage since it will probably take a while before we finish, and we took the IFS out.,
Everything came apart nicely outside of the passenger side torsion bar. The bolt was really hard to remove and it snapped on us when using a longer lever arm (probably 5ft). The other side came out really easy.
I'll try to sell the front diff with 529's and try to get rid of some other stuff now.
We're finally starting to put things on the truck.
Cutting the holes for the shackles was challenging as my frame had internal braces.
Other than that everything else went pretty well.
quick question on the U bolt. My axle is an 84 and based on the instructions I was expected to use 2 square U bolt on the passenger side (even though the manual says driver side), and 2 round ones on the driver side.
We ended up putting 2 round ones on the driver side and 1 square/1 round on the passenger side.
09-17-2018, 01:19 PM
