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Greetings all,as I wrote on a different thread, I found a 1988 Toyota 4Runner that fit all my criteria: price, straight frame, undamaged and rust-free body, well preserved interior. I was aware of the problem of oil-in-water, but since I wanted to rebuild the entire drive-train anyway, and believed, based on my research, that the problem will be head-gasket or head, I bought it. Obligatory picture attached.
I would have preferred to do the rebuild per partes while being able to drive it; however, it appears that the block is cracked, thus the order of rebuild has been changed as follows:
1. Engine - swap the 3VZ-E for 5VZ-FE.
2. Transmission - the decision will depend on the condition of the donor vehicle. If the donor vehicle has low mileage I will use that transmission and overhaul the transmission of the 4Runner. Otherwise I will keep the transmission and overhaul the one of the donor vehicle.
3. Clutch - since the 4Runner has 219,000 miles on the tachometer, I will replace the clutch. As best I could determine, the 5VZ-FE uses AISIN CKT-040. Is this a good clutch, or would you recommend a different one? What would be a good source to buy it from? Also, it appears that the kit comes with release bearing for the 5VZ-FE, but my understanding is that I need the one for 3VZ-E - where do I buy that?
3. Front - the boots on the CV joints are torn, but the joints still appear to be in a good condition. So for now, I plan just to replace the boots, repack them with grease. What brand and source for split boot would you recommend? Since the 3VZ-E will be out, is there anything else I should check while I have a good access to everything?
4. Rear - (a) I will take out the third member to check the condition of the ring and pinion. I am also contemplating to install Detroit locker, since I will have the third member out.
(b) In that respect, I have read about the gear ratios, but as I understand the gear ratio is dependent on inter alia the engine, size of tires, and type of terrain. Thus, how do I determine the gear ration for the 5VZ-FE, 31x10.5 tires, and hilly terrain with dirt roads?
(c) Install u-bolt flip kit. This will require welding a holder (is it the correct term) for the shock. What brand of flip kit and the weld on holder would you recommend?
(d) Replace rear springs. I am completely at loss here. There is a plethora of options, but it appears that some require welding a new front anchor (Chevy 63) or they raise the truck (OME). I would prefer not to do either if not necessary. What would you recommend?
That is about it, but if you can think of any additional potential issues I should check, please let me know.
Well, the 3VZ-E is out. I need some help to determine what remaining components need to be removed or relocated.
Referring to the RH_Side figure above, this is what I understand about the marked components:
Battery relocate on left-hand side;
Fuse box - retain at current position;
Charcoal canister - retain at current position;
Windshield wiper motor? - retain at current position;
Power steering hose - retain;
A/C hoses - retain;
Engine mount - retain.
The remaining components are to be removed. In that regards, where I disconnect the fuel hose - at the marked position or at the ?
Referring to the LH_Side figure above, this is what I understand about the marked components:
Heater hoses? - Do not know;
Cruise control unit? - retain? Relocate?
Coil - remove;
Intake - remove.
Looks like you found a nice 4runner to work on! I also got an 88 4Runner over the summer that I am starting to rebuild as well, still looking for an engine. Everything you have circled in the pictures is correct.Where do you live by the way? It might change some of your 'things to remove' list.
thank you for your reply. I, too am still looking for an donor vehicle. I found several lower miles ones, but unfortunately with automatic transmissions. The others have high mileage engines. But I have other work so I am patiently waiting, a good deal will appear.
I live on Palomar Mountain, which is unfortunate since you already have an experience.
Since you are in CA, you should contact a Bureau of Automotive Repair and make an appointment with a Referee (over the phone appointment). I assume you plan on smogging your 4Runner and driving it on the road? If so, the sooner you do this the better. They can answer any questions you may have about what is legal in CA and what you will need to have done to get your 4Runner to pass. I would also make a record of who you talk to and what questions you ask/what the answers are because things change and its good to have reference. You will not be able to use things like your old Evap in a legal CA swap.
Hi @mbomberz1,
I had already called the number about two weeks ago, and the lady told that would let the referee know and he would call me back. However nothing yet. I also am reading the different fora to understand what to ask.
Hi @mbomberz1,
I had already called the number about two weeks ago, and the lady told that would let the referee know and he would call me back. However nothing yet. I also am reading the different fora to understand what to ask.
Kindest regards,
M
Glad to hear you already made the appointment. They do take a few weeks to get back sometimes. They probably will be calling you soon. I would ask them a few things:
Is it OK to have the exhaust crossover drop on the driver side, which is reversed from stock on the engine?
What kind of Computer (ECU/ECM) verification is needed?
Last time I called ( a few months ago), it was again legal to drop the exhaust on the driver side. I am curious what they will tell you, as it has changed back and forth a few times in the last few years.
Feel free to ask any questions you might have here as well, I will do my best to answer since I have recently been down this road.
from my limited research, I understand that all the verification is based on the ECU. So if I acquire an entire donor, all the SMOG-related parts should match. However, what is one of the parts is damaged? What conditions must the other vehicle satisfy so that I can take a part from it? The other question is: Are all the vehicles 50 states legal, or do I need to get a California only one? I have found a nice one here in California, with CA license plates, but it was brought herein from Nevada. Also, what is the maximum mileage on the engine that I should accept? And related on, if I will have the swap certified, an I then just change an engine?
Really what they will be looking for is that all of the part numbers of any emissions related components match what your ECU should be paired with. Everything hinges on which ECU you have. If you get a donor and there are problems with some parts, you can easily replace them as long as you make sure to get replacement parts that are correct for the vehicle that the ECU came out of. If its a 99 intake, make sure to get one that has the same part number as your 99 intake. You could also use a CARB legal part but I would personally not because I feel it would draw suspicion. Might be just me though.. I had every intention of not giving them 1 thing to complain about, because it sounds like they get plenty of people trying to pull one over on them so they already start out suspicious. Which reminds me, be friendly with your guy and remember that its not him making up the rules, he is just following them. It can go a long way and might get you to slide by passing if there is anything questionable (like the exhaust cross over..).
You should look for a 50 state legal vehicle, I do not know for certain which years Toyota still made 49 and 50 state versions but I do know that they will be looking for it to be CA compliant.
sorry for the belated reply caused due to the Christmas and New Year holidays. In any event, I really appreciate your reply, it gives me more specific questions to ask the referee, it the referee ever calls me.
I have not done much, due to workload and lack of motivation due to unsuccessful search for a donor vehicle. However, there is a chance that I found one, so I started to work on the car again. I have removed most of the components identified in my previous posts, but before I remove the rest, I have a few questions.
I think that the circled device is a cruise control. Should I remove it, or will it work with the 5VZE? If so, can it stay in the current location, or does need to be relocated?
The red circled items are fuel lines. Do they stay at their locations? The blue identified items are bracket holding the break line; the upper to the body, the lower to the engine. Do they stay? The black identified item is high pressure hose to fuel injectors. Where to I disconnect it? There appears to be coupling at the black circle.
Ill try my best to answer clearly for what I have experienced.
The objects you labeled as brake line brackets, outlined in blue is actually your clutch line. You can most likely mount the lower one to the head of your 5vz with 1 bolt to keep it steady. Its not a great fit but it works unless you want to get fancy and make/customize that bracket better.
The high pressure fuel line you have labeled with black text. This is correct, you will run that to your 5vz fuel rail. Where you have it labeled "disconnect here" , that is correct, assuming the 5vz you get does not have this line cut, it should have a fitting that will connect right to that same spot that you disconnect. No other work is required except that you will need to flip the line on the 5vz fuel rail 180 degrees to face that side of the engine bay, because the 5vz fuel line is natively on the driver side not passenger. I can explain more if needed.
The 'fuel line' you have labeled in red that is the most left in the picture, is most likely a fuel breather tube for your fuel tank that needs to connect to the 5vz evap box. It just carries fuel vapor, not liquid fuel.
The 'fuel line' near your brake line brackets is the fuel return line, and should be hooked up to the fuel return from the 5vz injector rail
Correct, in your first picture, that is the cruise control. I have read that you can make it work with the 5vz, but I do not know how you would mount it and get it to work. The throttle body on the 5vz is on the opposite side as the 3vz, and that cruise control does not reach over there in a way that would let it hook up to the 5vz throttle body. Someone else should chime in if they know how. My plan is to eventually just install the 5vz cruise control, but its low priority for me, so its going to wait for now.
You are, of course correct, the brackets are holding the clutch line. I will continue cleaning and preparing the engine bay for the potential donor.
One unrelated question. Since I have the engine out, anything that you would recommend I check/overhaul on the drive-train while I have such a nice access?
after some long hiatus due to unpredictability of life, I was encouraged by moto809's thread documenting swap using JDM engine, so I decided to acquire one too. As there are not many threads dealing with JDM engines, I will try to document my journey.
I had found the engine on e-bay, and by luck my friend found himself a few miles from the seller. So I asked him to go look at the engine and if satisfied with the inspection to purchase it. My friend is an experienced auto-mechanic, so I trust his judgement. He was pleased with the engine, which the seller described as having less than 40,000 miles, so he load it into his truck and brought it to my place yesterday.
The first minor problem we encountered was when trying to mount the engine on a stand; the transmission bolts that we tried to use were too short. I fond the thread size of the bolts (M12 x 1.25), ordered them from McMaster-Carr, and just a few moments ago mounted the engine on the stand.
I do not think that there is anything exciting about a motor sitting peacefully on a stand, but to prevent "This thread is worthless without pictures", I will take a few tomorrow at better light.
11-21-2018, 03:00 PM
