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Bought this clean 1986 4runner last month in Montana. Had been garaged and used for vacations mainly. I bought this as my daily driver with the original intent of building a 22re for expedition/ Pan-Am hwy/Alaska. I spend 4 months a year in the US, so this will be a seasonal vehicle. But as I drive it around I think to make it a restore project. Ultimately I want to do both.
2 things that need to be seen to immediately.
A new clutch (as it slips in the high RPM, and 4th and 5th lose power on any incline)
Ball joint replacement (possible rebuilding of front IFS with HD parts)
This is a just a rough list of things I've thought of.
Repair and replace clutch. Flywheel? Master cylinder/slave cylinder? should i remove oil pan and clean during this time? what else when i remove drive train?
Fluid drain, flush and replace.
Re seal what joints?
Rear Leaf Spring Upgrade - Rear spring eye shackle bushing kit
Body mounts replaced Rubber/urethane
Fix interior seat rip/replace mats
BODY WORK
Tailgate
Replace rear passenger side light
check for rust - under rear fender guards
Remove and check rust under body guards - fill holes with spot weld? sand down and repaint
Remove the body protector trim and fill in holes
gaskets to replace?
Rubber to maintain
Improved headlights/interior LED
Expedition:
elevated sleeping platform/ stove/kitchen/fridge
dual battery- charging system
Air compressor
I wanted to post an initial introduction, but I need to get my clutch done ASAP and this will be my concentration this week. Any tips or ideas are appreciated.
Would you restore or build this 4runner out?
Last edited by Nippon_surf; 02-08-2016 at 08:47 AM.
Nice find, 133,000 miles that's crazy! It looks like it would be an good candidate for a restore since it's already in such great shape, ultimately it's up to you and how you are planning to use it. Look forward to the progress!
I would restore it if it was me. Finding an original truck is the rarest out there. I have seen a couple things on websites saying these trucks could possibly be worth something someday. Most I have seen are just ragged out and ran into the ground. Plenty of other trucks out there that are not original.
I would have the tailgate fixed but would try to leave the rest of the paint alone. From the little bit I see of your grill and your rims, I am thinking you have an 85 model which is rarer yet. I would not even do some of the SR5 upgrades like the cluster gauge or anything like that. I would want it as close as it came from the factory that it came with. Of the hundreds of builds on here, how many are original?
My 85 is a rare truck and sure some would scream when I stick 87 stripes on it but there really isn't much on it that is original to it so I don't feel bad about doing the color change and stripes and some of the other things I have done to it as it was headed for the scrap heap when I got it. If I had come in the condition this way and it was from the factory, no way would I have changed anything on it.
Great looking find you have. If it has a solid axle, I am betting you have an 85. Your grill looks like it has the two vertical bars in it instead of the single one down the middle. The two bar grill is for 85 and 86, the newer ones have the single bar. Your rims are on the solid axle trucks. The SR5 rims on the IFS are an aluminum rim and they will not fit on a solid axle truck. I am sure the chrome rim you have would interchange with an IFS truck.
Unless the flywheel has cracks or some other damage, no need to replace. You can get it ground. There is, of course, a turnaround time on that so if you want to just pull the old one and slap it back together you might consider replacing it.
Not sure why you'd want to clean out the oil pan. Unless you have a leak where it connects to the block I'd say leave it alone.
If you want to fix the rear end sag a pair of add-a-leafs will get you back to stock. OME makes a good set of springs but they will lift you 2 inches over stock. If you try to lift the front to level it out you're opening a can of worms. Lots of different opinions but the front end rapidly loses reliability as you lift it. The best IFS setup is stock.
Under the rear fender guards was rusted through on both sides on my truck. The rust starts from the inside and works its way out so removing the guards doesn't help you at all. Just means you'll be getting more stone chips there on your fresh paint.
You can still get OEM door rubber and window rubber track. I did this and it cured a lot of the wind noise I was hearing. A bit pricey but if it's worth it to you it's nice.
Restoring a truck makes it worth more to someone else. And even then it may not be worth as much as it costs. Modifying a truck makes it worth more to you. If you want to sell it, keep it stock as that's the only way it keeps its value. If you plan to keep it, might as well make it something you like and something that works with your tastes.
Thanks for the input. It's a 1986. It is a base model. Nothing extra. I think the rear seat might have been installed at dealer, as I've not seen this style in any other 4runners online. I would like to know exactly this part?
As I need to repair clutch ASAP, my first repair will it be stock? I'm on the fence how to go. I'm looking at the LCE with 30lb flywheel as an upgrade. Many thanks for all the ideas.
Factory rear seats are split. Your rear seats are not factory. Could be dealer installed or installed any other time, really.
LCE makes great products although I think their prices are a bit too high. If you want to upgrade the clutch go with Marlin Crawler or LCE. I haven't seen anyone who has used the heavier flywheels. If you go that way I'm curious how it works for you.
i have an 86 toyota 4runner. its the base model as well. it is almost identical to yours inside and out besides a few things here and there. if i can get some pics ill post them. mine has the bench seat also but its a little "thicker" looks like. Its stock with 210,000 miles and rebuilt at about 180 from the original owner. Im pretty sure in 84- early 86 they had factory bench seats and late 86-89 they made them split. i could be wrong but im about positive about it, especially on the base models.
If you dont mind me askin, what moth of 86 does yours have on the VIN? im just curious haha
Last edited by 86 87 4Runners; 02-11-2016 at 04:35 AM.
Nice stock runner, this is just my 2¢
If you are considering expedition, make provisions for an on-board hot shower(OBHS), you'll thank me later. Add to your list some sort of canopy/awning for shade and shelter. You may want to also include an auxiliary fuel take for improved range.
When you do the clutch have the flywheel machined, and buy a decent clutch. You aren't running a rock crawler with big wheels and armor, so skip the pricey clutch kits for now.
As for the body work, I'd leave the tailgate alone and just paint the bare metal to keep corrosion down. First time on the trail and you'll get a ding or two, not to mention branch pinstripes.
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As for restoring it... I don't think any of us on this board will ever see these trucks go up in value enough to justify a restoration. If you want to restore it, then I would use it for expo work.
I've done the above mentioned mods on my truck(check my build thread) for the idea of expo/trail weapon, after the diesel goes in I'm planning a trip to Alaska, or maybe just a loop around the states.
Great looking 86, following this one for my 86 build
1 owner 188,000 on the clock, not as sharp as yours.
Its going to get a frame off restore/ custom job as soon as winter is over
i have an 86 toyota 4runner. its the base model as well. it is almost identical to yours inside and out besides a few things here and there. if i can get some pics ill post them. mine has the bench seat also but its a little "thicker" looks like. Its stock with 210,000 miles and rebuilt at about 180 from the original owner. Im pretty sure in 84- early 86 they had factory bench seats and late 86-89 they made them split. i could be wrong but im about positive about it, especially on the base models.
If you dont mind me askin, what moth of 86 does yours have on the VIN? im just curious haha
Mines an 86 base model as well July of 86 build and has split seats, but I have seen several 85-86 with the bench style
Last edited by SwVa_1stGen; 02-11-2016 at 06:39 AM.
Mines an 86 base model as well July of 86 build and has split seats, but I have seen several 85-86 with the bench style
Mines in March of 86. maybe it was an after half the year thing when they bring out a new model or whatever. I cant think of what you call it right now
Thanks for the feedback all. As I might be going back to Thailand in April, I will likely focus on clutch and ball joint repairs/ cosmetic fixes before then. I was told the top had not been off either, if I get to Texas in March--will have to see!
Rear back part of seat is connected with velcro. easy removal. fabric is same as front (although a slightly darker tan- possibly due to sun in front? or mismatch of fabric)
I've looked at a few VIN decoders, elementary question- how to know the Month code?
Your VIN plate should should the actual month and year of manufacture. Look o the firewall plate that contains the trim, trans,color and engine code information.
Your VIN plate should should the actual month and year of manufacture. Look o the firewall plate that contains the trim, trans,color and engine code information.
Got to see to that dash crack!! The little things stand out like a new car Started my clutch repair today finally, I got the parts in last week via Amazon. I went with stock parts, and no upgraded flywheel for this time. Will save the money for an OME system/tires first.
Just finished the clutch on Friday. Took a few days at it. Bought a few tools in the process. Slowly building a portable tool kit from local pawn shops and CL. I ended up buying a used SnapON mg31 3/8" air ratchet to help break the flywheel bolts, and for reinstall.
New clutch ready to be installed.
Flywheel mounted after resurfacing. Smooth like a baby's bottom. Total $81 at Engine Machine & Supply in Bozeman, MT.
Also replaced the throw out bearing. When operating, the clutch and flywheel exhibit a slight variation from stock noise, but I expected this after breaking the factory seals.
A good inspection shows no rust on underside (with exception of part of the exhaust and bracket)
Rolling onward to the next upgrade
Last edited by Nippon_surf; 03-08-2016 at 09:50 AM.
02-08-2016, 08:43 AM
haha
Started my clutch repair today finally, I got the parts in last week via Amazon. I went with stock parts, and no upgraded flywheel for this time. Will save the money for an OME system/tires first.
