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-   86-95 Trucks & 4Runners (Build-Up Section) (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199/)
-   -   Jason in tn's 1986 4Runner Build-Up Thread (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199/jason-tns-1986-4runner-build-up-thread-197235/)

jason in tn 05-17-2011 12:32 PM

I'm jk mark I know you have big plans for your pink paint LOL.

ChefYota4x4 05-17-2011 12:58 PM


Originally Posted by jason in tn (Post 51723405)
Sounds like a plan mark. You still have some of that pink paint you've been hoarding? I'm fresh out

IT'S MINE!!!!!! Look, if you want the "Official" Hello Kitty Pink Metallic Hi Temp Engine Paint I got.....then you'll have to go on this site.....

hahaha. Jk, .... Yeah, I know you were joking, as was i! lol.

BTW, I'm pulling the tires next and and I'll start tomorrow on the BJ spacers, New Shocks, New LCA and UCA OEM Bushing replacement, Sway and Diff Drop kit with all new Sway Bar OEM Bushings, ... slap in the new-to-me 4.30 front diff, .....and that should about cover it. First, I want to deal with the front trans main seal leak.

BTW, ...went by Toyota today, ...even with my 20% off, guess what they want for the rear main and gaskets kit? 58$~~!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Napa-Felpro= 14$ .........I mean, WTH? I'm gonna throw this up on my build thread, ...as I wanna know what the 'PRO'S' think of 'which seals, and does it matter if they're OEM?' .... ya know? In case you're interested. I know you have it back together back there... but I'm a lil concerned about using a POS seal, and would rather not if I can help/afford it. But 44$, just for the REAR MAIN??????? Good lord! BTW, it's been updated 14 times as well, just like the Front Main N.O.K. Seal. The front was 24$, and did NOT SEEM to be the right size.... It just fell over the harmonic when I had it on the bench, ...whereas the Napa one SFK or something, ...it went on tight as it should.

I know, you have it together, as you said, ....but really, is this something I wanna do again in 10K? HELL NO! lol.

Mojave_Moze 05-17-2011 03:53 PM

@ Chef
Yeah, I quit buying parts of my local yota dealer when they tried to sell me a paper 3rd member gasket for 20 bucks...I've used nothing but felpro from the parts stores ever since and never had an issue with em

nvtoyota 05-17-2011 06:42 PM

hey on the motor mount thing i found this it is an episode of trucks they make their own custom motor mounts its really simple and very cool just a idea http://www.powerblocktv.com/site3/in...05&ep_sea=1101

ChefYota4x4 05-17-2011 08:21 PM

Hey, man! ......that's all, just checkin in! :wave: hahaha..

Actually, I FINALLY got some more done to mine... updated the build. Anyway, I mention it cuz I hope some of it's useful to ya in the near future, buddy! Stay safe out there!

jason in tn 05-17-2011 09:36 PM

TThanks mark I'm gonna check the rear in my before I go any further just to see what I got and I am for sure doing something different with the front so thanks for the help.
Also did some checking on a Rad shop rseems the closest one is about 40 MLS ugg that's what I get for living in the middle of nowhere, the Guy comes highly recommended from a shop I t

Dutchbelly 05-18-2011 08:39 AM

Hey jason have you tried just throwing a bunch of CLR (that lime rust calcium removal stuff they use in houses) into the rad, and shaking the crap out of it for a while? I haven't used it on a rad, but Ive used it on a heater core. just make sure you flush it out well with water afterwards. If you try it let me know if it works. Also if you're lookin for motor mount plans I'll probably post a diagram and pics after I'm satisfied with the one's I'm fabbin up. I'm off in the wilderness for a week though, so it probably won't be soon. Cheers!

ChefYota4x4 05-18-2011 08:56 AM

40 Miles= 4-6 gallons Gas, round trip.... hmmmmm, 16-26$ in gas(my gosh,....it's CRAZY when I start thinking about it! lol.... stopping the thinking stuff, ...NOW! lol)

I think a REPUTABLE shop, if it's so, would tell you, "Nahhhh, you need to re-rod" or even "You'd be better off starting over", ...but most of these guys are REALLY good at making them like new. Man, I seriously can't wait for your "First Start" video!!!! lol.

jason in tn 05-18-2011 10:00 AM


Originally Posted by Dutchbelly (Post 51723939)
Hey jason have you tried just throwing a bunch of CLR (that lime rust calcium removal stuff they use in houses) into the rad, and shaking the crap out of it for a while? I haven't used it on a rad, but Ive used it on a heater core. just make sure you flush it out well with water afterwards. If you try it let me know if it works. Also if you're lookin for motor mount plans I'll probably post a diagram and pics after I'm satisfied with the one's I'm fabbin up. I'm off in the wilderness for a week though, so it probably won't be soon. Cheers!

I actually though about the clr thing, but I think I'm just gonna take it to I shop and have them go thru it I think its cheap insurance. On the motor mounts yea I was trying to think of a way to ask ya about that LOL, I deal bad you doing the engineering on them and copying your work but I'm sure they can be built cheaper than you can buy them.
enjoy your trip and take lots of pics.

jason in tn 05-18-2011 10:07 AM


Originally Posted by ChefYota4x4 (Post 51723952)
40 Miles= 4-6 gallons Gas, round trip.... hmmmmm, 16-26$ in gas(my gosh,....it's CRAZY when I start thinking about it! lol.... stopping the thinking stuff, ...NOW! lol)

I think a REPUTABLE shop, if it's so, would tell you, "Nahhhh, you need to re-rod" or even "You'd be better off starting over", ...but most of these guys are REALLY good at making them like new. Man, I seriously can't wait for your "First Start" video!!!! lol.


Yea mark the little town I live in has most everything a person needs but ocationaly I have to go else were just try and make those trips count.
hum first start video seems like a dream sometimes

ChefYota4x4 05-18-2011 10:15 AM

For sure on the mounts, ..... as long as they're 'OE' QUALITY! lol Or better, of course. New ones from Napa by Moog, etc., cost around 100$. I'm actually looking into new mounts, too. However, I will go for the 'being cannibalized' for them, ...since I don't think I'm good to go at this point on the 'MAKING THEM' myself end! lol.

BTW, ...it's not a dream, buddy.... IT WILL HAPPEN, just keep at it! lol.

jason in tn 05-18-2011 10:20 AM

I hear ya mark if I just had all the time and money I needed life would be good LOL. I gonna get there man its Just gonna be a slow pace.

ChefYota4x4 05-18-2011 10:22 AM

Yep, true enough~!... I know all about "HURRY UP AND WAIT!!!!" lol.

Watching, ...... let's see what's next!

Dutchbelly 05-18-2011 10:42 AM

@ Chef
 
I probably should have been more clear. I'm not actually making new mounts, I'm making spacers for the mounts. Here's a crap paint drawing that might be better than me trying to explain it all:
http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1305743844
The bracket will be made with 1/4 inch plates that will bolt to both the frame bracket and the factory motor mounts with factory strength or stronger bolts, the plates will be 1/4" steel plates cut and punched to match the factory ones, and the spacer will be a section of 2x2 hollow structural square with probably a 1/4" wall or thicker, mitred to match the angle of the existing brackets to lift the engine 2" straight up. I saw something similar for sale on some site a while back, think they wanted 100 bucks for the pair, and I wasn't willing to pay the coin even if I could find the website back.

jason in tn 05-18-2011 10:49 AM


Originally Posted by Dutchbelly (Post 51724040)
I probably should have been more clear. I'm not actually making new mounts, I'm making spacers for the mounts. Here's a crap paint drawing that might be better than me trying to explain it all:
http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1305743844
The bracket will be made with 1/4 inch plates that will bolt to both the frame bracket and the factory motor mounts with factory strength or stronger bolts, the plates will be 1/4" steel plates cut and punched to match the factory ones, and the spacer will be a section of 2x2 hollow structural square with probably a 1/4" wall or thicker, mitred to match the angle of the existing brackets to lift the engine 2" straight up. I saw something similar for sale on some site a while back, think they wanted 100 bucks for the pair, and I wasn't willing to pay the coin even if I could find the website back.

Dutch I knew what you were talking about I think mark misunderstood. What you are working on is what I want, I'm with you $100 bucks when you can build them for about $10 in material (that is after Dutch figures out the angles so all I have to do is cut and weld) just don't make sense. and take you time man we wanna make sure you get these right LOL.

Dutchbelly 05-18-2011 11:17 AM


and take you time man we wanna make sure you get these right LOL.
I hear you. I won't post dimensions till they're in my truck, and they won't go in the truck till I'm certain they're right. The first plates I made up were a bit shy of resting on the support tabs on the frame brackets, so I threw them out and started fresh. It's also why I'm going heavy with the steel and seal welding the tube to both plates. The factory plates are 3/16" so I'll use 1/4" or heavier. These brackets don't actually worry me, it's designing and fabbing up a replacement transfercase crossmember that'll be interesting.

Terrys87 05-19-2011 04:16 AM

Hello Jason.. Good to talk to you, yesterday. I was hoping they would of sent you south but maybe the next time. Hoping your trip goes fast for you and you get home soon. Just holler when you get in the area again. Have a safe trip.

yotarob2005 05-19-2011 07:11 AM

Hey Jason, just checking in on you, I need to find some time to get caught up on our thread here. Hope all is going well and be safe out on the road.

ChefYota4x4 05-19-2011 08:58 AM

Ahhhhhh, Ok, Dutch, I see! That's right, I forgot Jason was raising and such, .... gotcha:great:

Hope you get some time to KILL IT, next stop home, Jason!

dark_fairytales 05-19-2011 09:34 AM

looks like you have come along way sense we last talk Jason. Keep up the good work


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