Just in case anyone was wondering here's the difference between the 4x4 and the 2wd oil pan and pickup tube. I'm wondering if the block has the extra hole and threads for the rear most pickup tube mount. It was dark when I was getting done. I did notice that the front mount lines up with one of the old bolts.

Here is a test fit of the oil pickup. Luckily the engine had the hole for the 2wd tube drilled and tapped from the factory. Everything lines up.

Here are the modifications I had to make to the windage tray. I had to lengthen the slot for the tube because it extends further back before curving down. I had to open up the hole for the front mount because the arm came in at a different angle and hit. I also had to cut a new hole in the back for the rear bracket bolt.

Here is the clearance now. The steering and axle housing won't hit it. They will hit the bump stop before they even come close. I'll put oil in it Monday and fire it up. Hope it is sealed. That job was a massive pain. It would be cake of the engine was pulled.

I filled it up with oil. I put 5 quarts in which is about what it calls for. The oil level was right at the full mark on the stick. I guess I won't have to re mark my dipstick. Which is surprising because every thread on oil pan swaps said they had to. I drove it about ten miles and have no signs of leaks. I also got my hubs rebuilt with new gaskets, o-rings, and some IFS to SFA conversion gears. I also painted them. It is a little bumpy since I didn't have a sand blaster. You can see the texture of the chipped paint under the new coat. I also bought some alignment tools from Low Range. I'll give it a try tomorrow and take another test drive.

I did my alignment with the low range alignment tool. I set the toe in to 3/16 of an inch. I checked my castor again. It was at 4 to 5 degrees positive. I also checked my camber even though I can't do a thing about it. The camber was 1 degree negative. Everything seems in spec. It also drives much better. There is still a slight vibration at 10 to 20 mph but it is fine after that. My body roll seems excessive. I may look into better shocks/better shock towers in the future. I think I will begin my 5 speed transmission swap this week end. I may also take a couple days off work to get it done while I'm at it.

I put my transfer case and transmission together today. I'm going to try and get it put in tomorrow. I also put together my costs for the SAS. It ended up running around 2700 dollars for all the modifications for front and rear. It is quite a bit more than I had expected, but you get into costs that you didn't estimate. It adds up quick. From what I've read it seems like this is middle of the road on costs.

I got the new transmission in. The old one was a bear to get out. That thing weighed a ton. It was a little much for my little transmission jack. I ended up just knocking it over to get it out from under the truck. The new one went in easy enough. I still didn't enjoy doing it by myself. The previous owner said the clutch worked great, but that disk must have been at the very end of its life. I went ahead and replaced it with a NAPA disk. I also put in a new throw out bearing, and it didn't have a pilot bearing so I put in a new one. The clutch is not disengaging so I've ordered a new master and slave cylinder. I'm hoping that will fix it. I adjusted the clutch piston all the way out and it is still a little short of disengaging. I'm assuming it isn't building up to full pressure. I also got a manual center console. Unfortunately I didn't read that it was for the blue interior and not the grey. Oh well. Now I've got a tan, grey, and blue interior. Also my drive shaft was at the very end of its splines. I've ordered 2 spacers for my rear shaft and 1 for my front shaft. The front one fits but it isn't centered in the splines. I've also got a rat's nest of wiring to clean up better.

I got my drive shafts on. I used 3 spacers to get them to the right length. I put a 1.25" spacer and a 1" spacer on the rear drive shaft. I also put a 1.25" spacer on the front drive shaft. I also used a jack to lift the front up until my passenger tire came off the ground. The drive shaft on the front never came out, so it looks like I will be able to get away with the stock shaft.

I accidentally broke the brake line out of my driver side caliper earlier this week. I was re-torquing my caliper bolts when my wrench slipped. I took the opportunity to try and do a better job with my brake lines. I got SFA soft lines. They are a little longer than the IFS soft lines. And I also got some short length of hard line. Unfortunately there is nowhere to secure the bottom of the soft line. I'll have to do some research to see what others have come up with. I don't really like the thought of those dangling. It should be good for the short term.

I would like to see what you come up with on your brake lines. I have the same situation.

So far the only thing I can see for brake mounts is the lowrange dust cover delete ring. It has a brake mount built in. I also got stranded leaving work last week because my shifter broke. I decided I needed to do something about towing. So I bought a universal tow bar at Harbor Freight. I think I will also use it if I'm going to take my 4runner long distances. I need a class III receiver hitch for my FJ80 now. There are a few parks that are a couple hours away that I could tow my 4runner to.

If anyone is wondering how I mounted it, I used 2 of the bolts from the old tow hooks. I used the inside ones. The only reason is because the outside ones were bent and stripped. After I put in the bolt in the crossmember, i drilled a half inch hole on the other side. I only had to drill through the front of the square tube because a hole on the back side lined up. I used one of the square things that came with the tow bar. I assume it disperses the load better than just s washer.

Also I had to cut off the bottom of my bumper. I just cut the whole bottom rung off. It probably looks goofy, I havent really stepped back and taken a good look from the front.

I fixed my transfer case shifter. I bought a new shifter on ebay from a 1st gen Tacoma with the 3.4 and 5speed. I took the stick out and put it in my shift housing. I also replaced the seat with a marlin crawler transfer case seat (the blue one) and I replaced the boot with a Toyota OEM one. The transfer case feels tight now and snaps into gear. Hopefully my transmission shifter will improve too. My new stick should come in tomorrow. Now I miss gears and grind gears because of the play in it. Plus when I am in gear there is about 4 inches of play in the stick.

I got my transmission shifter in. I got a stick from a 4x4 4cyl Tacoma. I used a marlin seat and replacement bushing plus a new rubber seal. The transmission locks into gear solid now. I havent driven it because the fipg on the shift housing has to set up before I get oil in it. The old shift seat was nonexistent. It had crumbled into 100s of tinly little bits of rubber. It should shift like new now. I'll report back when I drive it some.

I bought my sister-in-law's wrecked 4runner. It is a 99 model with a nice 3.4, a manual transmission, and a rear e-locker. It has a bent frame and the core support and inner fenders are ruined so it looks like I'm going to use what I can then sell the rest. I pulled the drive shaft and I'm going to try and use it since the 3rd gen has a double cardin joint at the top and my 2nd gen has 2 regular U-joints. It looks like it might be long enough to use without spacers as well. Hopefully the bolt pattern matches up. After I buy a shop crane and some engine stands, I'll get my engine swap started.

I cut off the passenger shackle mount and moved it back a few inches. It is about to the end of the frame rail. I measured the angles of the shackles to compare them. The old one is 33 degrees. The new one is 56. If I remember right, the spec is 45 to 60 degrees. Hopefully it makes the rear end more stable on bumps. Now I just have to do the other side.

I got the drive shaft on then rotated my pinion up to match. The diff side of the shaft had the same flange, but the trans side was different. Luckily the companion flange on the transfer case could be swapped between the two. The hardest part was plasma cutting the weld without cutting the leaf perch or the axle tube. I set it on half power and made a ton of passes. The pinion had to be rotated up by 10 or 12 degrees. I reused the smaller spacer. It might not have even been necessary. The 3rd gen drive shaft was way longer than the 2nd gen. I took it for a quick spin. The vibration between 0-10 mph and the vibration over 50 mph are gone. It rolls just as smooth as it did stock. The sway is now the only difference from how it rode stock.

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I got the 3.4 out. Now I have to do some work on the engine. Timing kit, water pump, throttle body job, main seals. Basically everything that it may need since it's out in the open. Then I'll have to make a crossover and swap my 2wd pan from my 3.0. Hopefully I'll have it in my 4runner this week. Maybe get it to run next week.
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