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Last week I finally managed to get my hands on a very tidy 1st Generation Toyota Surf. The chassis code is LN61 meaning it came factory with 2.4 turbo diesel 2L-T engine and IFS. According to the records from the PO the 2.4 had quite a major rebuild a couple of years ago then ran a bearing not long after. It was then replaced with a 2.8 non turbo 3L engine. Unfortunately the PO was not very mechanically minded and so when he attempted to change the oil himself he overfilled the engine resulting in a diesel runaway. So I bought the truck as a non runner and trailered it home.
Once I had it home I drained the oil to the correct level and tried to start it but it wouldn't fire, so I sprayed some brake cleaner into the air intake and it started right up. It poured out smoke for a few minutes but as it warmed up it cleared and actually started to run quite smoothly. I took it for a run around the block and it all seemed ok so I booked it in with a mechanic for a general checkup. Sadly on the way to the mechanic the engine started to get a bit noisey which they diagnosed as a big end bearing noise and advised me to take it home and stop driving it. On the 10 minute trip home the engine got worse and as I pulled into my road it lost oil pressure so I crawled it back in the drive and parked it up.
On Friday night my brother and his mate helped me get the engine removed and onto an engine stand. We pulled the sump off and 3 of the four big end bearings were damaged. So this week it's off to the engine reconditioners...
In the mean time I'm getting stuck into the interior. During the couple of short drives before it finally died I noticed the truck had a lot of rattles and road noise. The carpets needed a shampoo so I started stripping the interior so I could line all the sheet metal with a sound deadening material and get the carpets cleaned. I've just finished the cargo area and it has made a huge difference already, it's noticeable just working on. Previously when you tapped on the rear quarters they would ring like a steel drum, now there is just a solid thud. I can't wait to drive it again!
Welcome to the forum, DiOn!
Diesel? We hate you already. - LOL!
The truck looks clean. I;m surprised that it does not have a roll-bar; That could just have been a U.S. requirement to have one? Good job on the sound-deadening; Many of us have done that, too.
I suggest you check the previous owner's wiring job. Looks bad. I also wonder what the yellow wire int he cargo deck is for.
Best of luck with the build.
RAD4runner - I believe the rollbar was just a North American requirement, but I could be wrong. Never seen one in a Japanese Surf. The yellow wire is part of the towbar (trailer hitch?) wiring, I plan to tidy that up too as it looks dodgy.
magnet18 - I'm in New Zealand.
My original plan when I bought it was to swap to a 2nd Gen frame with the 1KZ-TE 3.0TD and coil rear, but finding a decent one is proving difficult and details on the swap are a bit sketchy so I'm concerned I'll end up in way over my head. For now rebuilding the 2.8 will have to do.
Yeah, that would be simpler and more reliable, too. I like the old diesels because they are less dependent on electricity to run. Hence, more reliable in wet conditions. (You've seen the Top Gear episode where they tried to kill a diesel Hi-lux, of course )
Several of us here would love to get our hands on a diesel. I have driven several Toyota diesel trucks and we are getting screwed over here by not being able to have diesel trucks here. I would love to have a diesel Surf truck. You are very lucky. Truck looks to be in great shape and no rust. Rust is a common issue for most of us here. Great find and look forward to your build. Welcome to Yotatech.
Almost all of our 1st Gens were 2.4TD, the rest were 2.0 petrol 4Y engines I think. I've never seen a V6 or 22R 1st Gen over here.
There's a few things I'm trying to find information about;
Firstly, my rear interior cargo panels are in mint condition but they are very flimsy and rattly, what have people done to add some strength and reduce the rattles?
Secondly, I noticed the ride quality was quite harsh when I drove it, I'm not wanting much of a lift (2inch maximum) but would like it to be more comfortable as I plan on driving a lot of dirt roads and rough back roads with it. Will decent adjustable shocks help with this? I have been reading that OME springs give too much lift for a lot of people, are there any other options that give a decent ride?
Lastly, if I could find a complete 2nd Gen frame, how much of the suspension and brakes would swap over and is it much of an upgrade? Obviously the rear suspension is totally different so wouldn't work.
The rear panels are flimsy and now are very brittle and will snap if not handled with care. I have replaced the tabs/fasteners that hold the panels to the body to get them to stop from making noise. The doors to the panels should fit real good if the panels dont have the bottom pieces missing. To quieten other road noise from the rear fenders, there is a variety of material that you can install on the rear fenders that cuts road noise way down.
Several have used 2nd gen runners front brakes and boosters for better braking. Here in the states it is using the parts from a V6 Runner. V6 upgrade is what it is called here in the states. Not sure which brake parts are used where you are at.
I have used OME springs before. They are to stiff for me for a daily drivers use in my opinion. Look into the ZUK Mod. What it is, some put a coil spring that goes between the bump stop and the leaf spring on the rear. On Yotatech you will see Saggy Butt mentioned and it is where the rear of the truck sags do to the leaf springs flattening out.
The last Zuk Mod I did was using some Jeep Coil Springs and they lifted the truck back to normal ride height and gives a nice ride. You can order Black Magic springs off of ebay and they work well but they lift the rear a little higher then I like. Others have used coil springs from Honda and other cars in the past.
I'm also shopping for replacement Brake Vacuum Booster. Brand new OEM is pricey so am considering a used one from V6 / 2nd Gen or 3rd gen. I wonder if they will be plug and play on 1st gen.
re: Zuk. I'm very happy with mine.
14-inch springs will lift it 2 inches above stock.
I used Black Magic springs. Specs are on my thread. Restored to stock height, altho I'd like 1 more inch. IF there were a spring just 1 inch longer.
I also head about people using springs from 1999 4runner. Not sure if front or rear.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 06-27-2017 at 07:35 AM.
Terrys87 - I'm looking at lining the inside of my plastic panels with either a felt material or the same sound deadener I've used on the floor, so I'll see how that goes and let you guys know. New fasteners will help too I'm sure.
I will do some research about this Zuk mod. Not sure I will be able to do it due to legal issues here. It would probably need engineers certification which costs a lot of money. Might wait until I have a few different mods so I can get them all certified at once. I want a nice comfortable ride after my current DD >>
In other news, I dropped the engine off to the engine reconditioner yesterday so I should have a verdict by the end of the week.
Terrys87 - I'm looking at lining the inside of my plastic panels with either a felt material or the same sound deadener...
...New fasteners will help too I'm sure....
Try the Frost King foil-backed foam insulation like this? It feels like Ensolite foam sold by sound deadening sellers but is backed by aluminum foil. Will probably insulate sound and temps better, and you would not be paying "audio specialty brand" premium.
Re Fasteners: I replace hidden snap-in fasteners with nylon expansion nuts like this and countersunk washer trim screws like this
...my current DD
Interesting looking car. Which brand-model?
Originally Posted by magnet18
Looking great!
i think rear heaters were an option in the US, not sure how common
This is the first time I've seen one
Second that^^^ Haven't seen a heater like that, either. If I needed rear heat, I'd just buy small ducting, run under the front seats, along tranny hump, and connect it to the front ducting. More efficient, safer, less parts to wear out or break.
06-24-2017, 10:59 PM
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