de6w6it's 1988 4Runner Build-Up Thread "Flat Black Lemon"
02-19-2011, 04:08 PM
#82
Well, then, WOOT! Dewit wins again! hahaha. I, however, am in yet ANOTHER drama portion in my build thread! grrrrr! lol. OH WELL, we can't all go a week without something going wrong,......with almost everything new,.......ETC., ETC., ETC., .... ahhhhhhhhhhhh! lol.
Know anything about strange steering issues? If so, stop in my build thread and LAY IT ON ME, HOMIE! lol.
Have a good one, man, and WOW, really happy on the bushings, man...you must be stoked. Should make a huge difference.
L8r t8r,
Mark
Know anything about strange steering issues? If so, stop in my build thread and LAY IT ON ME, HOMIE! lol.
Have a good one, man, and WOW, really happy on the bushings, man...you must be stoked. Should make a huge difference.
L8r t8r,
Mark
02-23-2011, 05:49 AM
#83
Registered User
Thread Starter
i got a pm from someone looking for more info on the ifs hub swap, so i figured i would post my response as a little write up for anyone else needing some extra info.
as for the ifs hub swap. you need:
1) sfa
2) ifs wheel bearing hub bodies
3) wheel bearings (sfa and ifs pn's are the same)
4) sfa manual lock-outs
5) ifs calipers (depending on wheel offset, some grinding may be necesary on the outside) there will be some grinding necesary on the inside i will describe in a second
6) rotors from late 80's landcruiser (i used 88, which is the same year as my truck so it was easy to remember) and they will need to be drilled, which i will describe in a second
7) ifs brake pads
8) four 9/16"-18 bolts, nuts, and lock washers
9) sfa hard lines to the calipers
step 1:
you have to drill the 6 hole mounting pattern for the rotors. the rotors are meant to slip over wheel studs on the LC's, but the ifs hubs need to have them bolted to the back of the hub body. i took an ifs rotor, layed it over the LC rotor with a round random bearing with tape around it to center the two together, then transfer punched the holes, making sure they were rotationally centered around the existing holes. then using a mill my father and i drilled them out. i used a hand drill the first time, which was an epic fail, leading to vibrations upon braking.
step 2:
drill out the mounting holes on the knuckle for the caliper and the holes in caliper itself, both to a thru hole for 9/16's. this is because the capilers will now be mounted on the outside of the ears, not the inside. then the 9/16's thru bolt and nut/lock washer hold them on.
step 3:
mount the rotors to the hubs as you would have the normal ifs rotors, get your wheel bearings in, and mount to spindle using the procedure for sfa's. then, hold the caliper up, and you will see that the rotor isn't perfectly centered in the space between the pads, and because of this, some grinding on the caliper body will be necesary. it will be obvious where when you try and put the caliper on. then mount the caliper with new hardware, LOTS of torque, and red locktite.
step 4:
once everything is mounted up all nice and tight and purdy, try putting a wheel on. if you have aftermarket wheels with less back-spacing, you might be ok. i am using oem yota aluminum wheels, so i had to grind some of the ribbing on the outside of the caliper to get the wheel to sit right.
step 5:
enjoy your new-wheel-spacer-$200-spacer-free hotness
I used backing plate eliminators, which is not necesary for the swap, but leaves no mounting point for the hardline coming out of the calipers to the flex line. be creative
as for the ifs hub swap. you need:
1) sfa
2) ifs wheel bearing hub bodies
3) wheel bearings (sfa and ifs pn's are the same)
4) sfa manual lock-outs
5) ifs calipers (depending on wheel offset, some grinding may be necesary on the outside) there will be some grinding necesary on the inside i will describe in a second
6) rotors from late 80's landcruiser (i used 88, which is the same year as my truck so it was easy to remember) and they will need to be drilled, which i will describe in a second
7) ifs brake pads
8) four 9/16"-18 bolts, nuts, and lock washers
9) sfa hard lines to the calipers
step 1:
you have to drill the 6 hole mounting pattern for the rotors. the rotors are meant to slip over wheel studs on the LC's, but the ifs hubs need to have them bolted to the back of the hub body. i took an ifs rotor, layed it over the LC rotor with a round random bearing with tape around it to center the two together, then transfer punched the holes, making sure they were rotationally centered around the existing holes. then using a mill my father and i drilled them out. i used a hand drill the first time, which was an epic fail, leading to vibrations upon braking.
step 2:
drill out the mounting holes on the knuckle for the caliper and the holes in caliper itself, both to a thru hole for 9/16's. this is because the capilers will now be mounted on the outside of the ears, not the inside. then the 9/16's thru bolt and nut/lock washer hold them on.
step 3:
mount the rotors to the hubs as you would have the normal ifs rotors, get your wheel bearings in, and mount to spindle using the procedure for sfa's. then, hold the caliper up, and you will see that the rotor isn't perfectly centered in the space between the pads, and because of this, some grinding on the caliper body will be necesary. it will be obvious where when you try and put the caliper on. then mount the caliper with new hardware, LOTS of torque, and red locktite.
step 4:
once everything is mounted up all nice and tight and purdy, try putting a wheel on. if you have aftermarket wheels with less back-spacing, you might be ok. i am using oem yota aluminum wheels, so i had to grind some of the ribbing on the outside of the caliper to get the wheel to sit right.
step 5:
enjoy your new-wheel-spacer-$200-spacer-free hotness
I used backing plate eliminators, which is not necesary for the swap, but leaves no mounting point for the hardline coming out of the calipers to the flex line. be creative
03-17-2011, 03:51 PM
#84
Registered User
Thread Starter
so, after my trans, which had 180k on it when i put it in, and probably has 200k on it now, is making the same bearing noise in third gear that my first trans was. so, before it gets as far gone as the last one and possibly chews up gears, i decided to do something about it. after a bunch of looking, i found a diamond in the rough on craigs list. i found a w56, rebuilt by a toyota mechanic for his OWN truck. he put it in, put a few thousand miles on it if that, and pulled it to put a small block and matching trans in. he sold it to a friend, who planned on putting it in an 88 runner he was planning on restoring. it sat in his garage for 5 years or so in a plastic bag with a wooden crate over it on a shelf. only $200!!!!! awesome guy, has a bunch of stuff for first gen runners, will probably call him up for the sr5 buckets and some other goodies at some point. turns out it is an '85, which makes it a w56 A, because of the aluminum center plate. Completely interchangeable and comparable to W56 B. I have also been getting some vibes, and hope all this will aid in that, especially the new rear shaft.
so the plan is:
1) new clutch (even though mine only will have about 75 k on it when i do all this, i don't plan to pull the trans again for a long time).
2) crawler box as is with new HD shift spring, low pro drain plug
3) rebuild stock case, all new seals, bearings, etc., HD shift spring, low pro drain plug, twin stick from Davez
4) new rear cv shaft from Davez (as my stock one that i had re-tubed with a cv on it has a lot of play in the splines).
i am going to put together a shopping list on here, to keep my thoughts all in one place, so don't mind me.
so the plan is:
1) new clutch (even though mine only will have about 75 k on it when i do all this, i don't plan to pull the trans again for a long time).
2) crawler box as is with new HD shift spring, low pro drain plug
3) rebuild stock case, all new seals, bearings, etc., HD shift spring, low pro drain plug, twin stick from Davez
4) new rear cv shaft from Davez (as my stock one that i had re-tubed with a cv on it has a lot of play in the splines).
i am going to put together a shopping list on here, to keep my thoughts all in one place, so don't mind me.
03-17-2011, 03:54 PM
#85
Registered User
Thread Starter
Marlin:
in box) 3 x Low Pro Magnetic Drain Plugs with Aluminum gasket
in box) 6 x Dual Case Studs
in box) 3 x HD Transfercase Shift Spring
in box) 1 x HD 1,200 lb Clutch Kit
in box) 1 x HD rear T-Case Seal
in box) 1 x HD rear Transmission Seal
in box) 1 x HD Clutch Cover (Pressure Plate) Bolt Kit
Trail-Gear:
in box) 1 x Major Transfercase Rebuild Kit
Davez:
in box) 1 x Rear CV Shaft
2) 1 x Twin Stick
3) 1 x Twin Stick Rubber Boot
in box) 1 x 2WD/4WD Rubber Knob
in box) 2 x 2.28 Rubber Knob
in box) 3 x Low Pro Magnetic Drain Plugs with Aluminum gasket
in box) 6 x Dual Case Studs
in box) 3 x HD Transfercase Shift Spring
in box) 1 x HD 1,200 lb Clutch Kit
in box) 1 x HD rear T-Case Seal
in box) 1 x HD rear Transmission Seal
in box) 1 x HD Clutch Cover (Pressure Plate) Bolt Kit
Trail-Gear:
in box) 1 x Major Transfercase Rebuild Kit
Davez:
in box) 1 x Rear CV Shaft
2) 1 x Twin Stick
3) 1 x Twin Stick Rubber Boot
in box) 1 x 2WD/4WD Rubber Knob
in box) 2 x 2.28 Rubber Knob
Last edited by de6w6it; 08-15-2011 at 07:30 AM.
08-15-2011, 07:54 AM
#86
Registered User
Thread Starter
so i have my rebuilt W56, clutch kit, new rear cv shaft, crawler box (currently in the truck), and a fully rebuilt rear case (awaiting funds for twin stick).
I also picked this up to aid in the re-building process:
A large bearing separator was used to get all the bearings off the gears and shafts in the case:
Ended up needing two cases to get enough good parts for one:
I also picked this up to aid in the re-building process:
A large bearing separator was used to get all the bearings off the gears and shafts in the case:
Ended up needing two cases to get enough good parts for one:
08-15-2011, 08:04 AM
#87
Registered User
Thread Starter
de-greasing the case took FOREVER!:
New bearings: (please note, to anyone buying a rebuild kit for a yota case. the kits offered by trail gear and the like (which is what I got) does not come with every single bearing. as it says (most commonly replaced bearings). the kit from marlin is a full kit with every single bearing. The non-complete kit does not contain the pocket cage roller bearing that supports the other side of the front output. This is pressed into the case half, and is extremely difficult to remove. After removing mine, destroying it in the process, I found out my kit didn't have one. Luckily, it is the same as the other cage roller bearing that supports the other end if the intermediate shaft/gear. The kit comes with a new one for this, so I used the old one for the front output.) Also, the main cage roller bearing that goes under the gear on the main shaft was not the right size, so I re-used the old one. I don't forsee either of these two things causing me any issues, as they looked ok and don't see a tremendous load as the output or input bearing would.)
seals:
new rear cv shaft:
clutch:
ready for assembly:
Unfortunately, I do not have any pics of the completed sealed up case. When I go to put everything in, I will snap a few. I took out the interlocking pill between the two shift rails in preparation for the twin stick. I also already cut off/ground the shift rails to work with the crawl box. As soon as I can afford the twin stick, and I decide my current trans has gotten bad enough, I am going to pull whats in the truck and swap this stuff in. I will keep posting up as I go through it.
New bearings: (please note, to anyone buying a rebuild kit for a yota case. the kits offered by trail gear and the like (which is what I got) does not come with every single bearing. as it says (most commonly replaced bearings). the kit from marlin is a full kit with every single bearing. The non-complete kit does not contain the pocket cage roller bearing that supports the other side of the front output. This is pressed into the case half, and is extremely difficult to remove. After removing mine, destroying it in the process, I found out my kit didn't have one. Luckily, it is the same as the other cage roller bearing that supports the other end if the intermediate shaft/gear. The kit comes with a new one for this, so I used the old one for the front output.) Also, the main cage roller bearing that goes under the gear on the main shaft was not the right size, so I re-used the old one. I don't forsee either of these two things causing me any issues, as they looked ok and don't see a tremendous load as the output or input bearing would.)
seals:
new rear cv shaft:
clutch:
ready for assembly:
Unfortunately, I do not have any pics of the completed sealed up case. When I go to put everything in, I will snap a few. I took out the interlocking pill between the two shift rails in preparation for the twin stick. I also already cut off/ground the shift rails to work with the crawl box. As soon as I can afford the twin stick, and I decide my current trans has gotten bad enough, I am going to pull whats in the truck and swap this stuff in. I will keep posting up as I go through it.
08-15-2011, 12:08 PM
#88
HOLY CRAPULA! IT'S DEWIT! He's aliiiiiiiiiiiiiive! hahaha. Seriously, 5 Months man! Life is crazy like that, especially lately, eh?
Great to hear from ya, and THANKS! >>> I"m about to do the trans, was hoping to see a blown up view of the basic breakdown of the t-case! That rig get's sicker and sicker, doesn't it, Dewit!?
Great to hear from ya, man, ... hope all else is well, .....as well! lol.
Great to hear from ya, and THANKS! >>> I"m about to do the trans, was hoping to see a blown up view of the basic breakdown of the t-case! That rig get's sicker and sicker, doesn't it, Dewit!?
Great to hear from ya, man, ... hope all else is well, .....as well! lol.
08-15-2011, 03:36 PM
#89
Registered User
Thread Starter
HOLY CRAPULA! IT'S DEWIT! He's aliiiiiiiiiiiiiive! hahaha. Seriously, 5 Months man! Life is crazy like that, especially lately, eh?
Great to hear from ya, and THANKS! >>> I"m about to do the trans, was hoping to see a blown up view of the basic breakdown of the t-case! That rig get's sicker and sicker, doesn't it, Dewit!?
Great to hear from ya, man, ... hope all else is well, .....as well! lol.
Great to hear from ya, and THANKS! >>> I"m about to do the trans, was hoping to see a blown up view of the basic breakdown of the t-case! That rig get's sicker and sicker, doesn't it, Dewit!?
Great to hear from ya, man, ... hope all else is well, .....as well! lol.
Did a little work on my TJ to get it through NJ tilt inspection, and have been getting this stuff all together for the final touches on the yota, before i really tear into my 60's for the jeep.
I always get too into what I am doing to take too many pics, but a good reference for the tcase breakdown/buildup is:
http://www.marlincrawler.com/tech/gu...1-gear-install
thanks marlin!
i can get a pic of the way the shift rails need to be ground to go behind a crawlbox if anyone needs it.
were you plannin on rebuilding the trans yourself?
hope all is well with you too my friend
08-16-2011, 01:53 AM
#91
Registered User
Thread Starter
I will grab a few pics of the shift rails next time i am out in the garage, and of the jeep floors in my brother's 96 restoration (i don't think he has a thread on this yet) if anyone is interested ha ha ha ha j/k here is a link to my brother's wheeling 97 cherokee we are workin on too:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/9...build-1134856/
07-24-2013, 08:55 AM
#92
Registered User
Thread Starter
so hurricance Irene put 6 feet of water in my garage, and 4 feet in my single floor house. I am just finishing up the house, to hopefully move back in soon, haven't lived there for 2 years. I bought an '09 taco, sold my jeep, and plan on putting my 60's under the 'runner.
the taco is a 4 cylinder, 5 speed, '09 black sand pearl base model 4wd, now with about 60 k on it.
my brother's 96 xj we were rebuilding got completely ruined and scrapped.
i was able to get my wife's matrix, my mustang, jeep, and 'runner to high ground before the water rose.
the 97 xj we were working on now belongs to my father, and he has it on the road, and it is pretty sweet.
the taco is a 4 cylinder, 5 speed, '09 black sand pearl base model 4wd, now with about 60 k on it.
my brother's 96 xj we were rebuilding got completely ruined and scrapped.
i was able to get my wife's matrix, my mustang, jeep, and 'runner to high ground before the water rose.
the 97 xj we were working on now belongs to my father, and he has it on the road, and it is pretty sweet.
Last edited by de6w6it; 07-24-2013 at 09:25 AM.
07-24-2013, 08:55 AM
#93
Registered User
Thread Starter
I have been gathering parts for the first order of business, building/re-building the axles.
Specs:
Front:
'87 D60 F350 dually 4.10's kingpin style 35 spline inner, 30 spline outer
Rear:
'79 D60 F250 2wd 4.10's 30 spline
I will eventually re-gear to 5.38, and while i am doing that will bore the rear for 35 spline shafts. For now the 4.10's will have to do.
I am staying with mostly stock style stuff, as much as i can, i liked how that was the general idea with the yota build, and am trying to translate that over to keep it as much ford stock style. i am keeping the rear drums mostly for parking brake capabilities, as this is going to be something that sees as much street time as wheeling time.
here is what i have got so far in terms of part numbers, mostly timken, raysbestos, and some stuff from partsmike.com:
i am unsure about the rear inner wheel bearings, as i can not find good part number info, as almost everywhere seems to contradict everywhere else. i went on the dana/spicer site and found my bom, and it seems like inner front and rear were different, but when i tried to cross it, the different spicer numbers are replaced by the same timken numbers. it seemed like all were the same, so thats what i ordered. once i get everything apart, i will find out for sure. spicer number 706074x was listed as the outer for front and rear, which is set38 in timken part numbers. 706179x is listed as the inner for the rear, and 706411x is listed as the inner on the front. 387a is the timken cup, and 382a is the timken cone that seem to be a direct replacement with both of the spicer numbers.
i picked up some srw hubs and the corresponding studs.
the plan is to use the stock tie rod for now, in the stock location. partsmike has a pitman arm reamed for a gm 1 ton tie rod, so i am going to combine that with a single right hand hi steer arm with one hole for the drag link.
Specs:
Front:
'87 D60 F350 dually 4.10's kingpin style 35 spline inner, 30 spline outer
Rear:
'79 D60 F250 2wd 4.10's 30 spline
I will eventually re-gear to 5.38, and while i am doing that will bore the rear for 35 spline shafts. For now the 4.10's will have to do.
I am staying with mostly stock style stuff, as much as i can, i liked how that was the general idea with the yota build, and am trying to translate that over to keep it as much ford stock style. i am keeping the rear drums mostly for parking brake capabilities, as this is going to be something that sees as much street time as wheeling time.
here is what i have got so far in terms of part numbers, mostly timken, raysbestos, and some stuff from partsmike.com:
i am unsure about the rear inner wheel bearings, as i can not find good part number info, as almost everywhere seems to contradict everywhere else. i went on the dana/spicer site and found my bom, and it seems like inner front and rear were different, but when i tried to cross it, the different spicer numbers are replaced by the same timken numbers. it seemed like all were the same, so thats what i ordered. once i get everything apart, i will find out for sure. spicer number 706074x was listed as the outer for front and rear, which is set38 in timken part numbers. 706179x is listed as the inner for the rear, and 706411x is listed as the inner on the front. 387a is the timken cup, and 382a is the timken cone that seem to be a direct replacement with both of the spicer numbers.
i picked up some srw hubs and the corresponding studs.
the plan is to use the stock tie rod for now, in the stock location. partsmike has a pitman arm reamed for a gm 1 ton tie rod, so i am going to combine that with a single right hand hi steer arm with one hole for the drag link.
07-24-2013, 09:19 AM
#94
Registered User
Thread Starter
well, my dad helped me get the 60's shuffled around so we could get the spindles/knuckles/etc. the rest of the way off. unfortunately, 6 of the 8 lower cap bolts snapped off, so we are going to have to machine them flat, and drill them out. hopefully the original threads in the knuckle can be saved, if not, i will drill everything out and tap for 9/16 or something. good news is the kingpins look perfect, so i am leaving them in.
old pics, as this work was done before the flood 2 years ago
rear hubs and the inner front non-neck down shafts:
rear backing plates:
spindles, knuckles, outer shafts, rear shafts, caliper brackets, etc. (my front yota shaft i am working on snuck in there too):
driver side kingpin all bundled up:
pass side kingpin:
rear:
rear spindle (going to send some pics, info, and measurements to the machine shop my dad knows to see how much they want to bore them. he said the can turn a 60 inch diameter part, so I think they are capable...)
rear spindle again (would have been nice to not have to bore it):
old pics, as this work was done before the flood 2 years ago
rear hubs and the inner front non-neck down shafts:
rear backing plates:
spindles, knuckles, outer shafts, rear shafts, caliper brackets, etc. (my front yota shaft i am working on snuck in there too):
driver side kingpin all bundled up:
pass side kingpin:
rear:
rear spindle (going to send some pics, info, and measurements to the machine shop my dad knows to see how much they want to bore them. he said the can turn a 60 inch diameter part, so I think they are capable...)
rear spindle again (would have been nice to not have to bore it):
07-24-2013, 09:20 AM
#95
Registered User
Thread Starter
well, my dad was nice enough to help me get my knuckles back on track. we machined the snapped bolts off, and drilled and tapped them for 9/16"-18 and then drilled the bottom caps out to 37/64". i also used the parts washer at his shop to clean up all 4 hubs, the caliper brackets, and the spindles. i still have to get the spindle/axle shaft straight roller bearings out of the spindles.
cleaned hubs:
drilling out caps:
tapping knuckle:
finished product:
cleaned hubs:
drilling out caps:
tapping knuckle:
finished product:
07-24-2013, 09:23 AM
#96
Registered User
Thread Starter
since the flood, I have put in the rebuilt trans, dual cases, new rear shaft, and new clutch. the noise/vibes I was getting turned out to be the fact that the pilot bushing had completely disintegrated, and had to be cut out of the crankshaft.
one of my rear upper shock mounts ripped off the frame, so I welded in new mounts on both sides, and put in some bilstein piggybacks, which are awesome and worth every penny, btw.
one of my rear upper shock mounts ripped off the frame, so I welded in new mounts on both sides, and put in some bilstein piggybacks, which are awesome and worth every penny, btw.
07-24-2013, 10:06 AM
#97
Wow! So sorry to hear bout the carnage from Irene! I wondered what happened to ya! Glad YOU and your family are ok!
Crazy stuff you got going on with the 60's, etc.... Sitting back with popcorn and watching with awe! Lol....
Take care, D!
PS.... I've been busy to, stop by if you get a chance? Ok bud, see ya.
Crazy stuff you got going on with the 60's, etc.... Sitting back with popcorn and watching with awe! Lol....
Take care, D!
PS.... I've been busy to, stop by if you get a chance? Ok bud, see ya.
07-24-2013, 11:36 AM
#98
Registered User
Thread Starter
here you go chef:
my '66 mustang i got when i was 13. it was in boxes. i rebuilt the motor, 3 speed c4 cruise-o-matic, the suspension, steering, interior, bodywork, etc, basically a ground up stock resto.
and here is my new taco:
my '66 mustang i got when i was 13. it was in boxes. i rebuilt the motor, 3 speed c4 cruise-o-matic, the suspension, steering, interior, bodywork, etc, basically a ground up stock resto.
and here is my new taco:
07-24-2013, 04:11 PM
#100
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I can see why you call it the lemon. You got what is fairly typical only most was just neglected as is the norm for these trucks. The rust issues you have deal with in your part of the country doesnt help much either. Dont know how I missed your thread, but it is looking great. Like the Mustang. Looks like you did a great job on it as well.
