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Rob, hmm not what I expected either. My truck is up in NC, so I'll take a look when I get back up there. Was there a piece of trim over that? It's been a while since I really looked at mine, but for some reason I thought it was a little pocket piece of trim. Thanks for checking though!
I think factory there is a piece of plastic trim to catch the seatbelt, mine hasn't had those since I bought it. This is honestly my first time looking at the rear seatbelts.
I expected a bigger hole, could put a grille over it, not much sound would get through though, and I'm not sure how easy it would be to mount a speaker in there anyway.
Probably better cutting another hole somewhere else and doing a clean install of a speaker.
With a bad shift cover, there will be a lot of heat that can get in. Surprisingly at how much heat does come thru. I have used an inner tube in the past and cut a flat section out to help seal up. The cover and rubber boot will hide the wonderful looking inner tube but does cut the heat down.
These trucks are loud without any insulation in them. Un-insulated, I have to yell at the kids in the back seat just for a normal conversation. Insulating from the firewall all the way to the rear including the floor really makes a big difference on the interior noise. I can talk normally to the kids and really like just hearing the motor humming along. I use 4 rolls of Peel and Seal to get a truck insulated.
Looks like you had a great time wheeling. Great pics.
We decided to head back home to FL a couple days early, so left Beech mtn at 4.30 Wed morning and made the 14 hour drive. It was extremely hot. At one gas stop I came out to see a couple drips of oil under the truck. Got down there and looked and there was oil all over front drive shaft, a bit on side of transmission. Didn't smell like sulphur, so must be engine oil. There was plenty in engine, so I kept going... I was probably 300 miles from home.
Took this picture today. I pulled on the rubber boot on the clutch lever arm and more oil poured out so I'm thinking rear main seal is leaking into bell housing. Been feeling some clutch chatter lately, so probably soaked with oil. Pretty sure I sleeved it a few years ago.
Cory that seems like a pretty fair trade. Mountain trails and fun in North Carolina for a rear main. I'll take that deal. I heard it may be in the 50's up there this weekend.
Glad to to see you enjoyed it, and even though it's a pain in the butt, you'll probably enjoy working on your rig as well. Have a good weekend!
Yeah I guess it's not that major, but either way truck is down while I fix this. Worked on it some today, tranny seemed to be low on fluid so maybe this is an input seal issue.
Got cross member down, shafts removed, and transfer case out.
Starting to lean toward this being a transmission input seal failure, but I haven't dropped the tranny yet to confirm. Doesn't really matter because it is getting a new input & output seal anyway. Most threads that talk about oil pouring out of clutch lever boot say it is the transmission input seal. I read a nice thread where Terry changed the input bearing, it doesn't look that difficult, assuming I can find a puller with enough reach.
So the things I need:
1. W56 input seal, OEM 90311-30115, $6.47 2. W56 output seal, OEM 90311-38140, $7.01 <-- This is NOT the correct part number, I'll update with the correct part number
3. W56 input bearing, OEM part number ???? might be a Nachi 6307N but not sure
4. Shift Handle boot, rubber boot which slides over the base of shifter, $13.59 at Marlin Crawler https://www.marlincrawler.com/shifte...-pickup4runner
5. Crush washer or gasket for Transmission drain plug??? There is not one on there, it wasn't leaking but seems like there should be something. Found this on Toyota Parts Deal, 90430-18008 Drain Plug Gasket, $1.25
5. Clutch Disc, already have OEM
6. Pressure Plate, already have OEM
7. Pilot bearing, already have OEM
8. Throwout bearing, OEM part number ????
Transmission is out. If you look at lower left corner of input shaft cover, it does look sludgy.
I put the tranny up on the bench, the input shaft seems to spin smoothly with no off noises. I can however pull the shaft out this far, wondering if that is normal.
I'm tempted to just change the input and output seals and not mess with any bearings.
As for rear main seal, there is a bit of oil around the seal, not much but what do you guys think? I've already dropped the front diff so I can change the axle seals so the oil pan would be pretty simple to drop at this point.
The input shaft should have a little side to side play but should not be able to pull in and out. I would have that done now while it's out of the truck
The input shaft should have a little side to side play but should not be able to pull in and out. I would have that done now while it's out of the truck
Originally Posted by ozzir70
side to side play would mean a bad input bearing, the in and out movement is normal. The snap ring and bearing retainer hold the shaft it place.
Thank you both for your inputs. There is no spec in the FSM on any shaft play, but if you watch this video
, at about 7 to 9 sec mark, the poster pulls on the input shaft with the transmission opened up. You can see that the only thing stopping the input shaft from moving further out is what looks like a synchronizer hub hitting the gear on the end of the counter shaft. So, given that video, and the fact that ozzir70 just rebuilt 2 W56's, I think the in/out movement of the input shaft is totally normal.
Since that input bearing looks to be in good shape, I've decided to just change the seals. So I ordered a new input seal, output seal, drain plug gasket, and throwout bearing from Toyota Parts Deal. I already have an Aisin Clutch disc and pressure plate. While I wait for those to show up, I started cleaning the bell housing with brake cleaner. I also cleaned up the rear of the engine, and put the flywheel back on. Bolts tightened to 80 ft-lbs and I used blue threadlocker. The FSM doesn't say anything about using threadlocker on the pressure plate bolts, but I feel like I should so they don't back out on me. I also hit the flywheel with a bit of sandpaper to scuff it up for the new disc.
Going back out there today to do some more work...change the clutch soft line to the slave cylinder, and hopefully get new axle seals into the front diff.
side to side play would mean a bad input bearing, the in and out movement is normal. The snap ring and bearing retainer hold the shaft it place.
I'm sorry, i had this completely backwards.
this is the correct info. Strange because i had the exact same question with my trans and still got it wrong.
I'm sorry, i had this completely backwards.
this is the correct info. Strange because i had the exact same question with my trans and still got it wrong.
ehatch - no harm done, I appreciate the fact that you read my problem and posted, I wanted opinions. Glad you are now in agreement, I do think the in/out movement is totally normal.
So far today I did some degreasing of the input seal cover, installed my pressure plate and clutch (yesterday I did the pilot bearing, removed the old one using a slice of bread). I used blue threadlocker and 14 ft-lbs on the pressure plate bolts. I also installed that new rubber soft line for the clutch slave cylinder.
Here is the bell housing, I soaked it in that run off degreaser all night. Plus a while can of brake cleaner on it. Still not really that clean.
Here is the new Aisin clutch and to right is that new rubber line to slave cylinder. That line is not easy to get to, even with tranny out.
Lastly, I put new axle seals into front diff. Cover had to come off to pry the axles out, then the driver's side tube had to come off. Lot of work, but it's done.
07-15-2017, 04:38 AM
